TheSubaruJunkie

Goto the junkard and look at anything that came with a 22R or 22RE. You might get lucky and find a boot for the distributor cap. I had one for my old wagon and it worked pretty well. I found that RTV only made it harder to fix the disty whenever it did get wet.

Thats going to be my final step! Stupid EA81's... i have NEVER owned a EA81 that i havent had to d!ck with the exhaust studs on. So I just finished the job. Ran heli-coil into the spacers, installed new studs and snugged them up real tight. So far, seems to be better than my last attempt. And a short drive to the bank & back, and finally I dont have to crank my stereo to 22 to enjoy it (although, i do anyhow).

Yeah forget all that nonesence. Those spacers are rust-welded to the bolts holding them in, and there is no clearance to get a socket around the bolts. After I looked alittle closer, the spacers have pipes running from them... and that would be another headache. My M10 heli-coils fit real nice into the metal spacers, so i tapped the spacers. Im about to go run the heli-coils after everything drys. Thinking of using Red Threadlocker as well when i assemble everything.

This is something I want to do with the 35" swampers on my Toyota... You can never keep swampers ballanced... ever!

I got metric studs, M10x1.5 & heli-coils to match. I think im going to try and remove the spacers and drill out the heads. I had thought about tapping the spacers.... i guess that'll be the next step if these dont work.

4 months ago, i replace my exhaust gaskets. I notice my exhaust studs are in need of attention. I make them work, but then 3 weeks ago I was forced to replace the gaskets again. Knowing how bad a shape my studs were in, i went and bought a heli-coil kit... new studs, and went to work. Well, I found that my engine has those stupid cast metal exhaust spacers on each head, and it prevents me from getting to the threads in order to repair them. So I kinda just did a half-rump roast job, with some JB weld. Here we are, 3 weeks later. My exhaust studs are now missing (at least it sounds like it) and I am forced to do the job again. Im not going to do it a fourth time, so I need some tips/tricks/hints on how to accomplish this for good. Finding metric studs are impossible. Im going to be forced to use SAE, and heli-coil. But first I will have to find a way to get these stupid exhaust spacers off. THe bolts holding them to the head are rusted pretty good, I started to round one when trying to get it off the last time.

There has been talk about installing a valve with the disc conversion to eliminate this problem. It will work. But, did you do a thorough bleed job after you did all this brake work? I would maybe bleed the entire system one, or two more times... also break in the front disks and see if that helps.

I say K.I.S.S and just get another EA81 manifold. True the EA82 will net better benefits, but you stated you are not worried about power, just reliability.

Frames should be the same, welding will be required. If anyone here can do it, it'd be you Miles.

Your what!?!?!

I was told by an officer of the law, that when you identify something its not enough to put your initials in it. He suggests something like your drivers license number... which is what I use on any single tool that costs more than $300 to replace. Also on my bikes. But i feel yah... ive had tools go missing and most likely supported some tweakers habit

Legacy steering boxes have a u-joint in them, find one at a junkyard and make it work.

I have one of those, i found it while cleaning up my room. I pulled it from a Legacy in the Yard a while ago. Pretty cool thing to have around tho.

While you are in there, put a new water pump and oil pump in. It could probably use it, and when will you ever want to be in there again?

Cant beat a deal like that!

I had a 1983 Wagon a few years ago and WalMart was the only place I could find that stocked 185/80R13 tires. They didnt like the idea of installing tires that large on my car, but I assured them it was okay. That was a while ago, and I couldnt remember the brand. Not long after that I lost the car to the city. **edit** Found these on tire rack: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Marathon+Radial&partnum=88R3MAR6V2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes not a bad price, could have em shipped to any local tire shop to get mounted.

awesome, I am going to be getting new struts and then worrying about springs after that. Great build, keep this thread updated!

I got to test my 4WD the other day, used it comming off a red light. I needed to make sure to beat the outback beside me so I could get his lane. Oh, and it was raining... kinda about this hard:

I found my Gen3 heads on a 1989 GL10 Sedan when I was rebuilding my RX motor.

Keep in mind, that while Subaru was building EA82 Turbos, they phased through 3 generation of EA82T head designs. If you are looking to replace your heads, you might do good by looking through the junkyards and see if you can find a new(er) EA82T Motor with Gen3 heads on it. Read through here to help identify the differences between Gen1, Gen2 & Gen3 heads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48560 -Brian

I saw that car on ebay a couple months ago.

Can you go into more detail on how you went about lowering your car? I love the stance!!

Beautiful yes... most beautiful, no. This place has my vote:

EJ this thing instead!

No, we add the T to the EA82 and the EJ22 when speaking about them in forum. The blocks are still stamped just EA82. The pistons are different, the rest is pretty much the same. The block is a MPFI block and has a few things that are MPFI specific.