TheSubaruJunkie

One of the founding members of HP does it all. Wheels, rallies, crawls... i say you figure out what you want to do first, then find a group that tailors to your needs.

Ok cool, you got a full-time 4WD subaru. The turbo & full time 4WD are a pretty good setup, but not for wheeling. Two major downfalls: 1: (and the most important) no low range 4WD. Part-Time 4WD Subaru's with selectable 4WD/FWD were available witha 4WD Low range, and that makes things 1000x better off-road. Expecially if you want to run 27" tires. 2: Its a turbo; Turbo engines are not ideal for off-road use as they make very little power at low RPMS (expecially that motor you are about to get...) Among that, they are a forced induction system and the turbo is sucking air through the filter like crazy. It will suck anything else it can, like dirt, debris, mud, water.... all the things that love to destroy engines. However, if you play your cards right and this Full Time 4WD Turbo Wagon you are about to get is in real good condition, its possible to sell it and get some money, then buy an already lifted rig... or a beater rig on the cheap and spend some extra dimes on a lift. Take a quick look in our marketplace right now, a real good selection of wheelin' rigs up for grabs right now: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103552 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103553 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103642 All in your backyard. Make sure you get us pix when you get that wagon! p.s. the fuse under the hood is to force the car into FRONT Wheel drive, this is only for towing purposes if you were to tow the Subaru on anything other than a flatbed.... which should NEVER EVER EVER EVER BE DONE!!! Regardless if there is a fuse or not.... just a heads up.

Make sure you have plenty of tongue weight on your trailer, but not too much. Loading the trailer will be key, and propper weight distribution will prevent alot of problems.

You got more reading to do bud...

If you are not worried about keeping things original than I would rip it out. Chances are it doesnt work anymore anyways.

If its got FWD, then it doesnt have Full Time 4WD. Full Time 4WD is always in 4WD and you cant select between the two. If there is a lever in between the seats to take it in & out of 4WD, then you have what is known as Part-Time 4WD. Stick around for a while, there is a ton to learn here! Not to mention you live in the Subaru Mecha with kick-rump roast subaru dudes on every street corner.

Its in his backyard, under a tarp with a broken EA82T in it. I talked to him at the WCSS and tried to convince him to EJ it. He promises to revive the wagon, but he sports a '92 Legacy Turbo Sedan that is pretty much all JDM now. Imagine how sexy his Wagon was, then just incorporate all that into a mint '92 SS and you'll see why he hasnt put much effort into the wagon.

Birfield eliminator kits are the worse thing to have happend to the toyota industry. You wont see me running a locker up front until i got longfields, and then Im not ever breaking anything... you verified my point with your mention of weakest links. Subaru's have MANY... Chevy, Toyota, everyone else have little... unless you want to run 40" tires but that is a whole new world alltogether. Regardless, the options for lockers in subaru's has never changed. And it wont anytime soon cause no company will spend the R&D in the hopes they can sell 10 or 20 lockers to the select few who are willing to drop $$$$ on real gear. Subaru wheelers dont want to spend big bucks. Its why we wheel(ed) Subarus.

Its not about the name, its the people you wheel with.

Awe, well your club has 1 dude in it and no documented trail runs. Ontop of that, your 1 and only member doesnt even have a subaru. He blogs about buying one, and is unsure how to even lift it. The PNW club is ran by fabricators who do their own thing. Join them and believe me, you will be better because of it. Keep your name, make a shirt or something.

Dude, the difference isn't in the welding of the diff, its the breaking of every part the diff powers. Your subaru diff, welded, will destroy CV joints, cups & shafts all day long. Ive seen pictures from almost every wheeling trip documented with a welded rig, and that rig and its driver rebuilding axles, re-installing diffs on the trail, every one of them comming home filthy, mudy and covered in gear oil. Take any other diff, in a real axle... weld it, and go on your merry way. Solid axle shafts do not break like the cups of a CV joint. Also, to the Original Poster... this subject has been beat to death with chains. The only option you have is a limited slip diff from a RX, or to weld your diff and lock it solid. A selectable locker is not available, but i bet if you gave ARB or any of the other locking diff manuafacturers anywhere between $12,000 to $15,000 they will make one for you.

#2 got robbed... #1 should be behind the Brat on that list... oh well.

Looking at your member roster, why dont you just join them and call it good. I guess that would sorta be like merging?? right?

:lol:

Stock boost on a EA82T's wastegate is about 6 to 8 psi i believe. A EA82T should be able to run reliably at 3 to 5psi

HiLift Jack Duck tape

Location will help determine price. Here in CA that car would probably get $2k. In Washington maybe the same, if you are in the rust belt however, that car maybe worth upwards of $3k to $4k... if you found a classic import collector. Don't expect to put it on craigslist and get people beating down your door for it. But sit on it for a while, and you'll probably find the right buyer (he's here somewhere).

I better see that grill at next years show, i dont care if you gotta pull a Subaru_Styles and tow your ************ to the show on a trailer!

What car & Engine are you putting all this on?

Also so far, Aarons auto has a pretty good name and the facilitys to pull this off.

The guys on the other forum refer to it as a "Bleed Type Valve" Im not sure, its not the type of valve I have used. When I bought mine, I did my research ahead of time and bought the correct valve that worked right the first time

From what I read, that is not the way that MBC works, and unless you use the T it will not work propperly. Read through the thread I linked you. It sheds more light on the subject.

Ahhhh... yeah. When i had my Turbo legacy, there was a guy over on the Legacy Central board who bought that setup. he couldnt figure it out, but got alot of help from other members. pix & discussion can be found here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=35205&highlight=boost+controller

Gotchya. Hope you didnt get one of those $4 home-built MBC's off ebay. I got one of those thinking it would save me a few bucks and it almost blew up my EA82T when it failed. I ended up spending $60 on a GFB MBC and it worked great.

Read up on how MBC's work, then you will realize just how simple they are to install.