TheSubaruJunkie

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Its really a simple job, you will realize when you are half way through Pulling the motor is indeed the easiest method in my opinion. Your EA71 wont have much stuff to disconnect. Only tip I can recommend would be to mark ANYTHING you disconnect. You will be able to pull the motor complete with alternator, intake and everything attatched... however, make sure you pay attention to which line is the fuel supply and return for the carburator. On the ignition coil, mark which wires are + and which are -. Color coded zip ties work great for this where more than 1 wire connects to one junction.... zip tie the wires with a yellow tie, then zip and yellow tie around the post they attatch to... red to red, black to black etc. If you haven't already, make sure your clutch kit comes with a centering tool. You will need to lock the motor to remove the flywheel bolts (since you are planning on replacing the rear main seal). I cant remember if theres a spot on the flywheel to place a screwdriver to keep it from spinning, but usually to lock my motors I place the piston at BDC on the compression stroke... then feed some rope in through the spark plug hole... then start to rotate the motor until it compresses the rope and will not spin anylonger. Works every time With an extra set of hands, this job shouldnt take more than 4 hours. have Fun, -Brian

Yeah, expecially since they are brand new and belong to the roomates. I had to pay special attention when moving the engine hoist to make sure I didnt ram into them. -Brian

In this picture here, you can see my custom engine stand I used when resealing my EJ22T Worked like a charm. I used the engine hoist to keep things stable while working on it.

I say paint em black. Those are going to look very slick on that car.

Hey thanks shawn Well, the documents that describe how to do a timing belt should go into further detail explaing NOT to use the arrow, and to pay attention for a mark on the backside of the sprocket.

It was 90 degree's off. It appears as if I used the arrow, not the mark on the back of the sprocket Running like a champ now.

It will suck not being able to purchase a shirt this year. :-\

Got a '78 in Sacramento. PM me

You can spot Dave in his Wagon by the HORRIBLE paint chipping on the hood He gripes at me for modifying my Subaru's... I gripe cause he wont replace that hood. On the subject of EA81's. I saw two today. One was on a flat bed tow truck being towed to the tire shop by my work. The other is a golden 4WD wagon that keeps driving by my work.

ahhh true.

Uhm.... why? This oil has less than 30min run time on it. Along with the new filter. -Brian

There are no mods. Everything is plug & play. Or should be from the other discussions ive read.

Fixed the timing belt. The motor didnt even make an entire revolution before it fired up. God its been too long since Ive heard the rumble of my EJ22. Almost 3 months. Aside from alittle smoke burning off some bits and pieces, everything checks out okay. Ran the scan tool and all the vitals appear to be within range. Took the car for a quick test drive. No overheating, no wierd clanks or ticks. Accelerates under boost as it should. Only thing left to do is put the hood back on and clean up the mess I made in the garage.

Feel stupid. Why would Subaru put only 1 mark on the face of the crank sproket and it be in the wrong position?

Yeah i like the originality of that one.

So i pulled the covers and yep... it appears my timing belt isnt right. While rotating the crank trying to get the lines on the belt to line up with the lines on the cams, i noticed the mark on the backside of the crank gear. And noticed only 1 mark on the front side, which was the arrow. There were no marks on the front of the gear that corresponded with the mark on the back, so i MUST have installed it incorrectly. No other explanation. Now the task of removing and reinstalling the belt. My back is killing me, perhaps tomorrow.

Were those the only 3 who applied or something? THere had to be better choices? Guess I cant *************** since I missed the 1st deadline and wasnt able to enter...

what are you doing about blocking the original throttle body? Wouldnt that create a huge vacuum leak? This entire project is brilliant! SJR DOES IT AGAIN! Cant wait till I move out of smog nazi territory so I can set something like this up. A Carbed powered EJ22 is a dream of mine. -Brian

Ok guys, new findings.... When I woke up and left for work, i disconnected my battery. I figured 8hrs would be long enough for the ECU to clear its memory. WHen I got home, i connected the battery and checked for codes and im still getting code 11 and 13. Remind you, before I was getting only code 11 until I FORCED a code 13 by disconnecting my Cam Sensor. The Cam sensor is reconnected but the code is still showing. That's leading me to believe code 11 (Crank sensor) is old. So I decided I would do a compression check. I pulled 2 plugs, one from each head (front pistons as they are the easiest to get to). I noticed immediatly that each plug was soaked in fuel. Fresh fuel from a recent attempt at starting the car not 2 min prior. So that answers that. It looks like im definatly getting fuel. So I checked compression, first with pistons #1 and i got 120psi. Then moved over to Piston #2 and same reading at 120psi. IIRC these numbers should be above the 160psi mark am I correct? The motor has fresh head gaskets. Heads were machined. Torqued to spec. No reason compression should be bypassing the rings either but I didnt go as far as doing a leakdown test. After doing this, I checked again for spark and determined I am in fact getting spark to those 2 cylinders. Guess the next step is to pull the timing belt covers and check that unless anyone else has anything helpful to add? Thanks -Brian

As long as all the smog equipment that came with the car from the factory is still there, then it should. The car does not have to be a CA vehicle to pass CA smog... just has to have all the equipment that came with it from the factory.

You can kinda see it in this picture. Its that thin metal plate directly behind the rotor. You will need to remove the caliper and rotor in order to get it off. Its held on by two 12mm bolts. They are not interchangeable. If you need the drivers side, get the drivers side. They are also not terribly important. And are pretty flexable. If you are having trouble with it scrapping the rotor, you can bend it out of the way. I also know of a few people who chose not to use them alltogether. expecially on wheelin rigs as rocks and mud tend to get packed in there pretty easily. -Brian

I just got a set of headlights from the Junkyard that look to be in near new condition. No yellowing at all. Would it be a wise decision to clearcoat them before installing them to help prevent yellowing in the future? And will any ole clearcoat work? I got some spray on stuff I used for modeling. -Brian

I was reading through the .pdf's on the timing belt install again. And im second guessing my installation. The guide tells you about the marks on the crank, however it indicates a mark on the backside of the sprocket. I read both PDF's and it didn't clearly indicate which mark on the face of the sprocket to use. I whipped up this image here to help explain what I did: I see 2 additional marks on the face of the sprocket. One looks to be an arrow, the other is looks like "ND" or "N?" And the other is just a mark, which looks like it corresponds with a mark on the backside of the sprocket. I marked the image with "This Mark" showing the mark I used when aligning the lines on my timing belt. Im almost 110% positive I didnt use the Arrow. Im going to bring my compression tester home with me from work, along with my multimeter to do some further testing but I have a feeling Im going to have to pull the radiator and check the belts.

I dont nave a noid light. And my meter is at work. I guess i'll have to bring it home and see if I can determine wether or not the injectors are opening. I left the negative terminal on the battery off for 4 hours, and im still getting the same codes. And no, you cannot mix the cam and the crank sensor connectors. THey are different colors and different connectors.