jsyme

I'm glad to hear your on the mend...

I'd slap a battery charger on the battery while it's in the car and try it... this is smell like a failing / bad battery. A blown Fuseable link wouldn't come back on ever. Batteries can be temperature sensitive.

Here's another contender: https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5925618130.html too bad there's no warranty. <wink> RARE 1982 SUBARU BRAT - $2000 (Pueblo, CO) Own a UNIQUE piece of automobile history! This highly sought after 4WD Bi-Recreational All Terrain vehicle is the top of the line original featuring original upgraded wheels with new tires, t-tops, sliding rear window, and is jump seat ready (jump seats not included). My dad and I were going to work on restoring this but things have changed and we're forced to sell it instead. It's a very cool car!! It starts and runs and shifts (reverse can be difficult) but there seems to be a lot of exhaust smells now but not any smoke.?I haven't had a certified mechanic look at it so I'm not sure what the issue is. The original exterior has few dents and rust for being 34 years old. The hood came unattached on the passenger side when I changed the battery so that will need fixed. There's rust on the hood and a few other spots that are noticeable. It needs windshield wipers. There's a black spray in lining in the bed. The white paint with the black accents looks cool!? The interior is also all original. It's a neat blue marble looking color and the seats are neat! The dash and seats both have cracks. The instrument panel on the dash works and all are accurate readings. I can't get the drivers side window to roll down but that could be fixed if needed. The T-tops are in great shape without much use.? Delivery is the responsibility of the buyer. I would recommend towing it. I have driven it around town a bit but the tags are expired. Sold as is and no warranty.

Make a road trip of it and contact this seller: https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5876795282.html 1985 Brat Description after the link expires: runs great parked 14 months T-tops/ still has back seats 1st $700 drives it home

I concur with the PITA assessment ... lay on your back on the floor

Confirm timing and Timing belt tensioners? maybe it stripped the driver side belt. Will it run with starter fluid in the air box on start? Are the spark wires on the correct plug? do they arc at night <or in the dark> because the insulation is so bad? Maybe it's an automatic and the linkage isn't in park or neutral, but it looks like it is in the cabin.

Compression? fuel, spark, timing and compression. Will it try to start with starter fluid in the airbox?

How did they break? Were the teeth stripped off the inside of the belt? Was there a sheer cut through the belt itself? Are the tensioners known good / replaced? I have an 230,000M EA82 and just swapped both belts after a similar failure. Works fine now.

It sounds like you've covered both ends. (source and destination) If you open up your instrument cluster you may find broken pieces in the speedometer module and therein lies your fix. The last option I can think of is the cable is not pressed properly into the cluster. Take the time to swap out the bulbs for LEDs too! I love mine. - Jeff in Colorado Springs

I believe that even if you found one, it would be rotted or smelly. I think it's time to either make on, or buy one for a newer car and modify it.

When it "locks up" does it lock up closed (as in the wheel stops turning and skids everywhere?) or does it lock up open (as in it squeezes the disk)? When safe one might test the locked-up-open condition by quickly applying the breaks on a sandy road, get out and cout the skid marks. 3 or 4 ? If it is locked up closed do you get different results when driving in front wheel drive only or 4wd?

Congrats! I'm glad to know the belt replacement fixed it. Consider why the belt may have jumped? are the tensioners worn out? The last time I swapped T-belts, on a new-to-me-car 89 GL DR5MT the tension-er bolts were stripped in the heads. -sigh-

Hmmm. months means seasons, and seasons means temp and humidity. I'd start looking for a compromised ground.

cat / Exhaust plugged?

If I were to do this, I would take a sample to Lowes or Home Depot, and let them color match it, and tell you what colors are needed to mix. Then there is the problem of fabric colors vs. metal etc.. wet vs. dry etc..

The 'boiling water' sound is an indicator worth resolving. I have detected that on my original 1.8L stock motor 1992 Loyale 204,000 miles. I find it happens if I'm driving hard and then stop the engine suddenly. Where if I arrive at my destination and let it idle a few minutes before powering it off, it's much happier. I need to get the air out of the system. I plan on using a mechanic friend's tools to pull a vacuum and then allow the vacuum to suck in all the radiator fluid. I just haven't done it yet.

Options: * They sell POC batteries at the upullandpay for almost as much as new batteries run. * If you have a pal that's preparing to upgrade his/her battery you might buy it as a core and save some money to tide you over. I avoid the high-end batteries unless I'm going full production on cabin solar panels, a long haul rig, hospital backup, ambulance, etc. little commuter cars don't get that treatment. ...And think of it this way - you already got a free year out of your dead one, right? That's good!

Hello Letters909, I read this as.. Not power steering, manual, and '4 turns lock to lock' is as measured at the steering wheel from most extreme left to the most extreme right 4 full turns. you can get most of your part numbers from the EA82 body / EA82 engine, sedan or wagon. Let the part stores help you. Even if you have such an exact list it wouldn't cover different vendors alternate part numbers. Having such a list is not a utopia. Your 'exact year' is a range of years from Subaru. There are different trim lines DL, GL and Loyale from 1985 to 1994 but generally it's the same car. if you put your year and model in your signature we would know exactly the context in which you're asking.

Describing the 2013 Subaru Impreza seat bolt pattern (the driver's front seat is measurements, from the centerline of the bolt holes.) Left front to right front = 15.5" Left front to Left rear = 17"

Local craigslist has 2013 seats for sale. I need replacements seats for my GL wagon... Will they fit? Bolt pattern seat fold locks, etc..

The car got away, but the "spare engine" remains for sale. It's 1.8 H4 Turbo but only the lower end. If I levered it into my 1989 GL D/R 5 speed manual - wouldn't I need the appropriate exhaust as well? (I've never messed with turbos before. Thanks all!)

Congrats on the Loyale Shortaay! I would take down the plastic and get behind the fuses to physically move (not remove) the computer under the steering wheel. Once all that is out of the way you can see the 4 identical relays vertically mounted. each have a different colored molex plug. One of those is your fuel pump relay: colored:...... <insert correct color here> You can test the pump itself with +12 volts using a power probe, and it should spin up. It is a high pressure fuel pump. i.e Make sure your replacement is not designed for a carb. Check the big three grounds... check fuses etc.. When I was still working through my 'new-to-me' 1989 GL wagon, it did not respond to starter fluid at all. I had to replace the right most timing belt before it came to life. (mine was missing about 20 teeth, and all the belt material was spread inside the covers.) I also have a 1992 Loyale 5-speed manual wagon and just did this fuel pump effort. 203,000 miles. and I brought back to life a 1989 GL Wagon D/R manual wagon with the timing belts work. 230,000 miles. Oh and where were you able to get the electronic factory service manuals please? I bought a replacement OEM relay for $25 from O'Reilley. (they had one in stock.) I'd go the Bosch route if I had to do it again. Either that a scrap yard...

I've got a 1989 GL 5-speed dual manual trans w/ 230,000 miles. The car is new to me and it's got the same symptoms: no AC click engaging the clutch, no interior fan speed 1,2,3,4. nothing. no bad fuses. no heat or cool.

Well it got away. I'll keep my eyes peeled for another one. - thanks everyone.