lmdew

Not likely. NGK Plugs, Subaru or NGK plug wires, Subaru Coil. Daughters 99 Impreza just went through the same thing and it turned out to be the coil.

No problem, I've had 15 or more up there. Make sure they are strapped well, ratchet tie downs work well.

Son had another coil from his buddy's car. 4 pin connector. It started running on all 4 but then would not rev above 2500. Very Strange. I went up today, bolted on a use Subaru Coil I had, Problem Solved. Lessons learned, Only use Subaru Coils and NGK or Subaru Plug wires. Back on the road. Thanks Larry

Use the search function and you will find may post on this. - Car up very high on good jack Stands - Trans is very heavy a good jack is needed - Don't dent the pan jacking on it - Make sure the TC is fully seated - You may have to change the flex plate to match the TC - 2 different sizes - 12mm 6 point socket for the flex plate bolts - support the engine when the trans is off - check the condition of your trans mount, you may need a new one - pull the complete exhaust in one piece if you are in the rust belt. - Make sure the front and rear diff gear ratios are the same

Coil was corroded on 2 of the 4 terminals. Swapped the Coil and plug wires, new NGK copper core plugs and it's operating on all 4 cylinders again but still stumbles when you have 25-50% throttle in. No codes but the plugs are very rich. Going to check the TPS, MAF, O2 and Knock sensor.

Not worth the time and money. Buy a turbo car if you want one, It will be much cheaper.

I'm away from my garage, is the valve clearance set with the screw and jam nut on the 99 2.2. Thinking the valve may be slightly open. I did clean the system with seafoam and lucas fuel system cleaner. Could have cleaned the carbon off the valves? Larry

Push the TC back into the trans once the 4 bolts are out of the flex plate and then make sure it stays fully seated. I've found that when fully seated the TC will lightly rub the Starter teeth when you push it back and turn the TC. Easy way to ensure it's fully seated. Will likely need new TB Cover Seals, at least the bottom one.

If you put non-subaru parts on, take them off and put Subaru Parts back on.

No

Where did the search function go?

The Daughters OBS was running a little rough off idle the last time she was down. Now she has a miss fire on #4. I did do Seafoam in the Intake and a Lucas Gas Treatment in the Tank the last time she was down. Plugs have been changed to NGK copper core. Going to have the #1 son swap the plug wires side to side and see if the fault follows. If an injector was leaking the plug would be fouled. I have not seen the plugs, so hard to tell. Valve Cover gaskets and the Spark plug tube seals were changed about a year ago. 140+ K miles. Other ideas? Thanks, Larry

Sounds like a pump. It's in the trunk on the passenger side. Get a Subaru Pump! Good used Subaru Pump is better than a new one from ABC Auto Parts store.

Yes, but I'd just source a 95 2.2 with EGR. Do it right the first time.

Interesting. Thanks

Anyone have any experience with these? Bahnhof Clutch http://www.ebay.com/itm/BAHNHOF-HD-Clutch-Kit-Subaru-impreza-95-01-1-8L-EJ18-2-2L-Legacy-Outback-90-99-/160823023320?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AImpreza&hash=item2571cc96d8&vxp=mtr Price is great. Thanks Larry

That's a drag. Lots of the VW Vangon folks like those motors. Might post it in that section as well. Larry

Runs great with the correct intake. Thanks for the help. Larry

Stock Subaru clamps are great. I also pull the BMW clamps an upgrade from the standard worm drive and they have rounded edges so they don't cut into the hoses.

Crank gear was off 1 tooth. Runs much better, still have to swap the intake.

When you put it back in pull the radiator trans hose and let the old fluid pump out and keep replacing with fresh. It usually takes me 3-4 gallons to do a flush on the trans this way.

That's a good pick for all the way down the hole.

Sounds like an injector is leaking

If the crank will hole the key, a new pulley and the proper torque should do the trick. There is a aftermarket repair that uses the holes in the crack gear to hold the pulley with dowels. I forget who makes it.

The crank and drivers side cam gear were swapped over. Old vs new style, totally different. Thanks Shawn for the heads up. As soon as I get back I'll be able to continue. Hopefully have an update on Sat. Larry