lmdew

Thanks, yep it was there. FWD light on the dash after the fuse was installed. Thanks

I can't find the FWD Fuse holder, its not on the passenger side like the older Legacy's. Did they do away with this option for the Auto Transmissions on the 2000? I put a transmission in a while back for a fellow and it makes a harsh popping sound when you go from rev to Drive, it sounds like it coming from the rear diff. The gear ratios are the same, the drive shaft U-joints look good. 330,000 miles on the car. I wanted to try putting it in FWD to eliminate the rear drive shaft and diff.

Just get a used one, they bend and you will never get it back to original. When you bolt the new one up, make sure you do NOT cross thread the 2 rear bolts, they are fine thread and are easy to cross. Real easy, two bolts in the back, and the pivot bolt up front along with the sway bar bolt and the ball joint. Huge interchange 90 - 99 at least.

There are also 3 or 4 bolts that go up into the side skirt of the bumper, you access them from the wheel wells. 10 mm I believe.

Good CO rust free mufflers are cheap. Check the You Pull and Pay in Colorado Springs for the price. Add about $35 for shipping. Instead of loosening the bolts, put good 6 point sockets on the bolts and tighten them until they snap and the replace them and the gasket. Apply anti-size to them and you will be good the next time.

Low charge I'd say. Pull the pressure switch off the dryer and jump the pins. If the AC works now, its a low charge.

If you have a business address to ship to or could pick it up at the dock, I' would think shipping would be about $200. I could strip it down as far as you want to make it lighter or ship it complete. I have not tested this engine, but it came out of a 99 Forster that was hit broad side hard. Compression seems good and the plugs and oil look good. $350 + shipping. Larry

I have a motor from a 99 Forster 99, SOHC. It has only two engine harness connectors on the back and there is no EGR valve. Is this what you have in the OBS? Colorado Springs. Larry

95 EJ2.2 with EGR is a great option and very cheap. I've done 8 or more and everyone worked out great and the people that have bought the cars are happy!

It will run a tooth off. Your engine is not interference so the ticking is not the valve hitting the piston. The lifters may have to pump back up, this can take some time. 5-30W oil is recommended.

The engine will bolt up to the trans. You will have to helicoil the lower starter bolt hole as one took a bolt and your's most likely has a stud, or the other way around. If it is the same intake manifold, you can swap them and the harness will go along with it. Is the EGR configuration the same? If not, I'd start looking for another engine.

Western Auto Parts on Federal You Pull and Pay Denver or Auora Colorado Auto Parts in Littleton Colorado Springs You Pull and Pay has a couple.

Is the CEL on? If so pull the codes with a code reader.

No just snagged the motor because for $200 you can't pass them up when you find a good one. I'll hang on to it until I find a Subaru that needs the SOHC engine.

I couldn't pass it up there was a 99 Forster that was hit hard in the side. 140K on the car and the engine checked out so I grabbed it. As I pulled it I noticed it had only 2 connectors on the engine harness so: Will a 96-99 2.5 DOHC manifold bolt up so I have the correct harness on the manifold? It does have the port in the head for the EGR so that should not be a problem. It's a dual port exhaust, it also had the oil filter cooler. It was nice of Subaru to put another engine to trans mounting bolt under the starter??? Thanks for you knowledge, Larry

I'd do a complete bleed and see what the results are. I failed master cylinder will show up for sure if you are manually bleeding the brakes.

Take the radio out and clear the codes and then see what comes back. The dash wiring uses a common ground for may of the components, including the engine computer. Once the codes are cleared you will have to run the car through several driving cycles to see what codes come back.

Sounds like a wheel bearing has gone out. Jack the wheels and grab the outside of the tires and try to move them back and forth. Even if they pass this check, the bearing may be bad. Spin the tire and listen for any roughness. Even if it passes this check the bearing may be bad. If the noise gets worse in a turn, L or R you have a bad bearing. Get a good used hub from a yard.

Well, first you have to pull the codes. Do a search for pulling the codes, but basically you need to find the single pin black connector up under the drivers dash RH side. It may be tapped to the wiring if it's never been pulled down. Pull the lower kick panel under the dash, it will make it much easier. Once you've found them connect them and turn the key on, you will get a flashing check engine light. If you don't have a manual, its time to get one as it will explain how to pull the codes. Let us know what you find.

Have someone push down on the hood the then pull the release lever. I you need to reach up to the cable at the lever and pull it down some as well. Then have the person open the hood.

Take a metal bar about 1/8" thick and 1" wide and round the corners, make it nice and smooth so you do not damage the cable. Run it inside the track, back to front. Many times the cable gets wedged down in the track. If you can get it pushed back up it will most likely work for you. The bad part is once this happens the only good and final fix is to replace the assy.

In the engine bay you have two large black plugs trans to firewall. One of them has two large black with white strip wires. Find them, disconnect the connector and then jump the contacts of these two wires. The car should start. If it does, the problem is on the transmission side. Barns - mice chewed wires.

Back to basics! Is the check engine light on? If so get the codes read out and let us know what they are. Since the crank shaft pulley came off, there may have been some damage to the crank sensor or the key that keeps the gear aligned on the shaft. Also make sure the pulley bolt is to 125 ft lbs. Are you getting Spark now? If not the computer is most likely not getting the inputs it needs to run.

There are two switches on the top of the clutch pedal assy, one for the cruise and one for the Starter interlock. Top one is for the starter Bottom one is for the cruise. They both should have little rubber stoppers/bumpers in the bracket. If they are missing, the switch plunger goes right through the hole so the switch does not activate. Yes, there is no Cruise indication on the dash. What you described is normal operation for your Subaru.

Any codes stored in the computer? Check the wires right behind the crank sensor plug. If the insulation is cracked fix it.