lmdew

I think the speedo sensors are different. The 90-94 has a cable, the 96 has an electronic speed sensor. I've put the electronic speed sensor on to the older trans and it works, but I don't know if it would work the other way. Gear Ratios may be different as well so match the rear diff.

I love these swaps as well, but it's getting harder to find good low mileage 2.2 engines.

Just those two screws. Hold the door handle out when you try to move the panel away. I go around the outter lip with a paint roller cleaning tool, its flat and sturdy and will pop all of the plastic clips out. Then you can remove it. It's easier with the window down. The keyless would be tucked up under the dash on the drivers side. I usually held in with a couple of zip strips. It's about 4" x 5" x 1" black box. Mine are GOH units. I think I have a used one with the wiring. Colorado Springs, CO USA

It just pops out. It's held in by the grommet which seals the pump. Make sure you have good voltage to the pump before you pull it. You could take jumpers right from the battery to test it.

Thanks, clutch and hub will be the plan. If the noise is still there, more troubleshooting will be required.

I picked up a 96 that needs a new clutch for sure. The guy fried it by not adjusting the cable. It was as tight as could be, clutch not full in gauging. The pedal is all the way to the top before it catches, even after I backed it off to make it home. The shop he's been using for a long time said he also has transmission problems. The trans shifts fine and the noise sounds like a wheel bearing. The noise is still there when the trans is in neutral. The Passenger side front hub, I suspect is bad as the noise is the worst when in a left turn. Brakes applied the noise is still there. However, there is no freeplay in the hub when I have it jacked. Spins OK with the tire and wheel on. Poor test, I know. I'm thinking New Clutch, front hub and the normal required maintenance and it will be road worthy. Anyone ever have a bad trany bearing sound like a hub bearing?

Complete hub is much easier and quicker. You should be able to find a good used one at a yard for under $50.

I have many good sets, $40 shipped. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Test the injectors when the car is cranking. They make test lights just for the injectors. If the injectors are not powered and you have no spark, I'd say the ECU is not getting the inputs it needs. Look at my thread on the Auto to manual swap. You will still have to have the electrical diagram for you cars to trace the wires.

Try unplugging the battery for 24 hours to clear the ECU codes. It shouldn't take this long, but while you are waiting, you can fully charge the battery and then have it tested. With the ECU clear of codes and a good battery try to start the engine. If it cranks but does not fire, try a little gas or starter fluid down the intake and crank again. If the CEL light comes back on have the codes read out. Fuel, Spark. If you did not change all of the wiring out, complete harness, the ECU may have plugged in but it may not be wired the same. Try the old ECU.

Bump to the top, I'm Glad USMB has a search. I'm doing a nother 95 Aubo Manual Swap and needed the info.

Should bolt right up, you will need the caliper mounting bracket as well. The STI are different bolt patterns, but the WRX is 5x100

The pan is sealed on with RTV, no gasket needed. Your oil leak may be the air oil baffle plate on the rear of the engine and not the oil pan. These are prone to leaking. If yours is the plastic version replace it with the metal one and RTV is the seal. You have to pull the engine for this one.

I've seen bad torque bind rip apart front CV joints. Lots of info on TB on the USMB, just do the search as noted above.

I second that one, a good used engine will be much less than doing the machine work and buying the gaskets. Most yards give you a 30 day return. www.car-part.com is a good yard search engine.

Yes, they will pump back up. 5-30 oil is recommended for the Subaru engines. You could also pull the AC and or ALT belt and see is the noise changes.

Why are you doing all this? If the head gaskets are not leaking, almost everything else can be done with the engine in the car. If you need to reseal the oil pan and do the timing belt and cam seals then yes pull the engine. No need for a $150 top end gasket kit unless you are doing the heads and HG.

Is the speedo fixed? The ECU does use a speed input as well. Your car is a manual? You may want to try putting the IAC from the old engine on the new one. Did you get the hoses all routed and the purge canister mounted in the engine compartment and its lines hooked up? Sounds like you may still have a vacuum problem.

How close are you to Salt Lake City? There are 3 good you pull and pay yards in town. Drop in a good 95 2.2 from an auto so it has the EGR. www.car-part.com is a good yard search or junkyarddog.com

That would be my plan, but it was a flip car and several guys at work want it. I don't want to sell it that way, but I guess with full disclosure it's their call. Just wish I knew for sure it was the diff and the condition. It's not worth tearing apart and the gear lube was clean, no fuzz or chunks when I changed the gear lube.

Not much drain on the fuel, if you see a 1 mpg drop in AWD I'd be supprised. The draw is not much, 10-15 amp should be fine. Some folks run around this way, but the AWD system was not designed that way. The C-duty soleniod may go out ahead of time, as it is only energized in a hard turn so you don't have torque bind.

I'd return the engine if its not usable! The keyway is the key to the timing for the crank sprocket. If its just the front of the keyway, you may get away with it as the torque of 125 ft lbs is enough to hold the pulley in place without to much stress on the keyway.

Auto or manual Transmission? Make sure the tires all match and are properly inflated. If you have an auto transmission, you will find a little black fuse holder on the passenger side firewall just behind the front strut tower. If you put a fuse in it, the c-duty selonid will be energized all the time and make it a FWD car. Manual transmissions have a viscous coupler in the trans.

I think the noise is in the front Diff. I found the passenger's side inner CV joint boot torn, so I changed that axle. Still had the noise. I put in the FWD fuse and had the front end on jack stands. By applying brakes and a little gas, I could produce the noise. Sounded like the drivers side outter CV joint, so just to rule it out, I changed that axle again. No change, the noise is still there. Seems to be the worst when turning right and going slow. I'm thinking a chipped tooth in the front Diff. How long will it last? Another Auto to manual trans swap on the way, I think.

The knock sensor is just behind the intake manifold on the drivers side. Look straight down, it's black about 1.25" in dia and has a 12mm bolt. There is an ohm check you can do for resistance. The EGR is also on the manifold, drivers side. With the car running, pull a vacuum and if the idle changes, the valve is clear. Lots of times the valve or line from the cylinder plug. Start with cleaning them if necessary.