lmdew

When you are at home it's easy to use a bottle jack to remove the pressure on the lower through bolt on the Rear Shocks/Struts on a 2000+ Legacy Outback. However, when you are in one of of the UPAP self-serve yards that does not allow jacks in the door, how can you remove the pressure? A couple of weeks ago I pulled a set off a 2007 for another USMB member. I took the following along with my normal tool bag: 10" 4x4 2) 6 " long 2x4 Using those and a few tools from my bag (socket and prybar) I was able to unload the lower bolt enough to slide it out. Basically, just build a little tower under the lower strut to unload the pressure on the through bolt. When the bolt turns with ease, you know you've got it. Pull the nut and drive the bolt out. Then go inside and remove the two 14mm nuts. You can fit a wrench or 1/4" dirve socket in by just pushing the side panel back in a bit.

Thanks for the info. Yep it pays to have a quality shop you know and a relationship with them. If not, do the work yourself.

I would think a leaking injector. If it will not start with your foot off the gas and you think it's flooded, put the gas pedal to the floor and see if it starts. How's your gas mileage? Have you looked at the spark plugs?

I take a step drill and drill several 1" holes in the plastic cover so the dirt can wash out. Others leave it off.

Glad you're back at it! I've never seen the approx 10" long rubber hose section fail. The metal tube that comes down from the gas cap does rust out. Either way, you will need to pull the filler tube back to get the rubber section out. It's a pain. The clamp at each end of the hose can rust and make it even harder. To get the filler tube to move there are the screws up at the filler and then 2 or 3 10mm bolts in the fender well under the black plastic cover. If it's been on dirt roads expect it to be full of dirt as well. Might want to have a good filler tube on hand as well or at least have him inspect it before he goes too far. Don't want to have to do the job 2 times.

I want to get to see GD's shop some day. Heck, I'd even be free help for a week.

Glad you're back at it! I've never seen the approx 10" long rubber hose section fail. The metal tube that comes down from the gas cap does rust out. Either way, you will need to pull the filler tube back to get the rubber section out. It's a pain. The clamp at each end of the hose can rust and make it even harder. To get the filler tube to move there are the screws up at the filler and then 2 or 3 10mm bolts in the fender well under the black plastic cover. If it's been on dirt roads expect it to be full of dirt as well.

Head Gaskets can leak oil or coolant at the split seam. Biggest problem with these. If you don't feel good walk away. There area always more to pick from.

Yep, I believe it's the glass that is different. When I cleaned my up today to put on some temp plastic. the glass went all the way to the top of the hatch, where the others have the metal upper above the glass. Thanks for the info. Larry

Bad morning, the rear glass shattered in my 2000 Impreza OBS Rear Hatch. I checked a couple of yards and car-part.com both are saying only 2000 or 2001. I thought the year range would be larger. Anyone know? Thanks, Larry

Just make sure you do not jack the new one on the pan. If the pan is already dented change it out or fix it.

It's also easy to pull a TCU from they yard and swap them out. Little time and if it does not work you can return it.

What does she want for it?

All of the above, I've herd good things about. I know Shawn at Retro Roo is great! He's done a couple of engines for me and he started out years ago at CCR. CCR now is NOT the same CCR Rick and Emily had. They sold the business several years ago. Larry

A good upper body work out for the day, with no gym fee.

GD do you still have good results surfacing the heads on a sheet of glass with Abrasive Cloth?

Clean the engine, you can then use baby powder and see the coolant trail.

Yep, that's what the Dealer will tell you. GD does a ton of Subaru work at his shop in Portland and recommends ever 30K. Check the SB link above and your service schedule. Amsoil CVT fluid recommended.

Thanks, that's assuming the correct level was set by the Factory or the Mechanic before you. You know what they say about assuming! Thanks Larry

Alignment will impact a bit but different size tires are very bad! Hopefully they check all of the tires and they match and the pressure is correct.

I did the oil Change today and was going to do the CVT, but then I found this: https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/problems-after-changing-cvt-fluid-782507/index2.html#post7444251 GD what's your shop doing for the CVT? It sounded like drain and fill but it looks like there is quite a bit to the fluid fill to ensure the level is correct. Thanks, Larry

KEY from the VIN. I bet you are correct and the IGN was changed at some point.

New key from the VIN is a good idea. Does the Key work in the passenger door, or rear hatch? If so someone changed out the door. A locksmith can re-key the lock for you. It's a pain to pull out!

Yep comparing would be great, but Nick is in HI and I'm in CO. Just wanted to have the largest pool of parts possible when I head to the yard.

Could be. Try the FWD fuse and see if it changes. You should get the FWD light on the dash when the fuse is in. Search Torque bind and you will find many good posts. tires the same size and properly inflated?