lmdew

I"d check for voltage with a miltimeter at the Fusebox in the engine compartment, under the drivers side dash and at the starter. If you have battery voltage at all those locations, with the meter on the starter have someone turn the key to start, does the voltage drop?

Do you have an aftermarket Security or remote start unit on it? Have you checked for voltage at the fuse boxes? What caused the battery and cable change to start with?

Right on the passenger side fuel rail on the back. You have a new one on the way. There is about a 2" fuel line that connects it to the fuel tubing. If your fuel line is in bad shape, replace it.

Parts shipped.

No other leaks. GD had noted he had changed several for fuel smell. Thanks GD and USMB!

If the pan is dented up, fix that first. Drain the fluid, drop the pan and straighten it back out. The external filter kits were on some Subaru's. You'll find the filter up on the Driver's side of the engine compartment. The screen in the trans is just that, it's just a screen. No need to change it. Grab 3 or 4 gallons of DEX III, Walmart is fine. Drain, Fill, and pull the upper trans coolant line. Run a temp line into a gallon jug. Start the engine, let the trans pump out about 3/4 a gallon. Turn it off, fill the trans, repeat until the fluid is coming out clean.

I have plenty of good used Red Injectors. How's $40 shipped. If you want the rails as well, I can ship them that way. Have you back on the road in no time.

They installed with ease and seem to be working well. No more fuel smell. BECK/ARNLEY 1580893 Time will tell.

Also check the Rear Diff. If one of the axle stub shafts popped out a bit, all of the power is going no where. I've had it happen more than once. The hardest part of the clutch pack is getting all of the old gasket material off the tail shaft flange. The C-Duty wire is very short as well. Don't pull off the connector.

Are you putting in Fluid in on the Drivers side behind the Starter? The dipstick/fill tube is kind of hidden. If you fill the passenger side towards the front of the Trans, you filled the FWD Diff with trans fluid. Drain it and refill with gear lube. You are not the first to make this mistake.

As long as the link is there it doesn't make much difference what it is. I'm sure the newer styles would work. Same length side to side and strong.

95 2.2 swap. Cheaper and will last a lifetime.

Hit a you pull and pay and grab the complete unit. Have to drop the headliner. www.car-part.com

So you replaced the motor and left the wiper arms on the shaft. The easy way, I'd remove the wiper arms. 14mm nut. Then turn on the wiper motor and watch the arm shaft. It should be normal. Turn off the wipers and then shut down the car. The arms can be installed in the park positon.

The panels do swap for the most part. There are some year to year differences on the plugs on the rear of the gauge cluster. I've changed lots of panels in the 95-2002 range sometimes because a speedometer failed or the clock was not working... If you have a different panel that is not an indication someone did something wrong.

Pull your car about 4 feet away from f flat wall and straight ahead. Turn on the lights and start cranking the two adjusters. You will see the beam move. As you move the left to right adjuster to move the light beam in or out it will also adjust the vertical some due to the design. Inner lower adjuster is for in and out. Top adjuster is for up and down. As you move one it does affect the other some.

I've got 3 or 4 Subaru nice Colorado Cats. $40 + shipping

There is debate on when the 2.2 started to be interference engines. You should be OK. Get a new kit, put it on and fire it up. When I do timing belts, I also do: - Reseal of the Oil pump and locktite the oil pump rear plate screws - New Cam and Crank Seals - New pullys - Check the Water pump, if questionable change it

The Starter contacts wear. You can replace just the copper contacts if you want. Or hit the local You Pull and Pay and grab a Subaru starter.

I ordered the A/B. We'll see how they are.

Hit you pull and pay. Pull the complete intake.

I've had off and on fuel smell from the engine for a few months. I've checked all the fuel hoses. The 2" on Left side was leaking a bit so I replace it. I also change out the Left side fuel injectors while I had the rail off with some used ones I had. That helped some but I still get fuel smell. I have also changed out the fuel filler pipe which was rusted. I'm thinking new injector o-rings. I looked at the local Subaru Deal and the 8 o-rings are over $90. Crazy. I checked Rock Auto and found these: Anyone have experience with them? BECK/ARNLEY 1580893 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Kit $2.81 Add to Cart GB REMANUFACTURING 8037 Fuel Injector Seal Kit; Services one injector, includes top & bottom seals. Info $4.50

I've done a few Auto Trans removals and Installs. The Negative Ground bracket makes a great plate to keep the Trans TC fully seated. During removal: - Remove the Negative Ground Lead - When you have the trans moved back a 1/2" or so take the ground bracket and bolt it to the passenger side upper Trans/Engine Mount. You can use the bolt that was there and one of the nuts from the lower studs - The Ground Bracket 2" long or so will hold the TC in the trans Install in reverse order

Subaru or NGK Wires and NGK copper core plug highly recommended.

If you need some Crank Sensors, I can ship 2 used one from CO. $10 shipped. Larry