Qman

OK, how about I start?

Wasn't that posted by Marnix? I believe it is from his home track in the Netherlands. I can't remember the name though, damn CRS! I also believe that was one of the original RX's.

I have seen bad rubber hoses allow fluid flow in one direction and not the other. It could be a rust situation I suppose. That is easy to find out though. All you have to do is remove the caliper and remove the piston. Clean the surfaces with a very fine emery cloth and reassemble with new o-rings and dust boots. Basically a rebuild of the caliper. Try opening the bleeder valve and see if the pressure releases itself. If you can turn the rotor with the valve open then it's a problem with the rubber lines or the caliper itself. Ken

Being that this is your daily I would suggest that you go with a 26" tire(205/75R14). The power range will be only slightly effected and you won't notice the difference in clearance off-road. Besides, they're a little cheaper in price. Morgan, How bad is your MPG? I still got over 20mpg when I ran the 28" swampers. And what do you keep up with?

Congrats to all particpants. It wasn't a huge rallyX but it seemed all had a good time with the very tight course. On a side note, it definitely pays to run clean. 84Brat A653... BLACK BRAT DOSE SUV 00:01:46.75 00:01:41.76 00:01:41.44 00:05:09.95 00:00:00.0000:05:09.95 Qman 425NXV BLACK BRAT QUALE SUV 00:01:43.91 00:00:06.00 00:01:41.44 00:01:38.87 00:05:04.22 00:00:06.00 00:05:10.22 Edrach LIGHT BLUE BRAT E. RACHNER SUV 00:01:47.41 00:00:02.00 00:01:42.59 00:01:41.56 00:05:11.56 00:00:02.00 00:05:13.56 Underlined is raw time. Italics is penalty time. Bold is final times. Excellent runs by Brian and Ed. I just couldn't stay out of the cones in the corner out of the long LH sweeper. Brian won by .27 seconds. Closest times I have seen in any class.

Pat = the barter king!!

I am sorry, but... I too was thinking the same thing. I had to lower my seats to be able to wear the helmet for rallyX.

Cool, learned something new today!!

1600 with D/R in anything is rare(read, not factory). It probably is the result of some creative fabrication. I could be wrong but I have never heard of a D/R behind any 1600. Does it have the center or side mount starter?

The best place to buy Swampers in Seattle area is from me. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20324

The problem is aftermarket versus factory I believe. I have seen them appear too long and too short as well. You may be able to get some adjustment by moving the mounting bracket a little bit.

Since no one has figured it out yet. That is the Hatch I tried to sell on the board last year. It was mine. I sold it to Szigi and he sold it to Zap. It is one of the prettiest ones to date. Gee Eric, that one sure is cute!! LOL

And I was the second. I have done rear disc conversions to every Sube I have owned. There are not any issues with brake pressure. I have never had an instance when the rears locked up before the fronts. Squirrley is also something that has also never been experienced. I understand your prof's concerns. However, he probably isn't too familiar with the Subes yet. Keep educating him and he'll get it sooner or later.

I don't recall any differences. Maybe the color of the logo but mechanically they are the same. Date tag is the only sure fire way to match them with your rig.

Near Bonner may have been Brad. He lives in Bonner and has quite the assortment. He has one of my old ones too!

Sounds like fun but I must opt out. Just closed on my house and have a ton of work to do.

Check your cap again. The entire distributor will get wet. Heat causes evaporation and the water rises as steam. You may have to remove the disty and dry it. You may have sucked some water into the carb as well. That will just have to run it's course.

Excellent rendition.

Why hasn't anyone suggested that you take the rear cover off and look for the stamp on the ring gear?? That will tell you exactly what your ratio is and will end the debate with all. Swapping third members will not be cause for redoing the side bearing shims if he keeps the parts from each diff together. Pull the cover and find the answer and then you'll know what to do. Besides that, you'll find out what the reason for failure is.

Craig...you've been hijacked!!

They look like mid to late 90'sToyota wheels, well at least half of one.

Not mine...his. You will not retain the TG without major stuctural redesign. Brat beds are not square.

Contact Brian and Steve at Brian's or Tom at Aaron's. Let them know I sent you and what you need. Either one should be able to get you good parts. Try to not use oversized bearings and rings. It will cause a heat issue at some time. There are enough parts floating around to get good OEM used parts that are within spec. You can call me if you need anything else.

Or, we were two doors down and you don't bother to come out and say hi! :-p We were in a bit of a hurry, just had enough time to drop the car and chat for a couple of minutes. Had an appointment with the folks at Hood River.

Why would you only get half of it?