Qman

And if he had posted to this before I would have placed him in that sentence as well. That seemed the best response at the moment. I know where the info is when we need it. BTW, I have some stuff that may be of interest to the both of you. Contact me off board when you get the time.

I'll trade you an... They are the same year Mark. I bet you even have the ad showing them together.

I test drove the '05 GT wagon. Nice car, but the roof opens way too far for my liking. The straight away power is good but handling flat sucks. The best way to describe it is clumbsy. I think the one problem this one had is the RE92's. Absolutely zero holding power in corners. It had very comfortable interior. Overall a nice car but inadequate handling for a Turbo. Felt like an old EA82 wagon with more power and nicer interior.

Probably a combination of things. Worn shock on that side and carrying too much work related gear in the back. It's pretty tough to bend the trailing arm.

Thanks Chris. I guess I have another reason to go to PaP. Arch, XT6 is N/A, no turbo.

I need to know if there is a fuel pump relay on these little monsters. It was running and the battery shorted and spent one of the fusible links. I am wondering if it got the relay or the pump. Have spark and runs off of starting fluid. Thanks!!

They are as far as I know. The only difference is in spring rate of the plate and spline count. You can have the EA81 flywheel cut to the EA82 specs. The only issue I can see you having is with the ER27 throw out bearing. Good luck.

What you have is an auto vs. manual bellhousing. If you look at the back of the block you will see a bunch of bolt heads inside the bellhousing(about 8-10 I think). If you remove those bolts you can swap the bellhousing. Make sure to use some sealant when you put it back together or it will leak forever. Also use lock-tite(thread sealant) on the bolts. This will also prevent oil leaks as the front side of the crank flange is exposed to the oil journals. Good luck! Also note that you will need to use the distributor from the '83. In '82 they used an ignition amplifier(parts connected to the holddown bracket on the coil).

Good description but a pic would do wonders.

If memory suits the EA81 flywheels are about .100 deeper than the EA82's and ER27's. The correct combination is the EA81 disc with the ER27 PP along with the ER27 flywheel. Usually, this combination is used with the 5sp trans so that the correct TO bearing can be used. The only benefit from the XT6 flywheel is a savings of about 5-7lbs of weight. And a slightly stronger PP designed for more horsepower. This may be detrimental to an offroader as the heavier flywheel will keep the momentum going.

I will take Todd's word over a Chilton manual any day!!

Cool, don't beat upon them too bad. It's good to have friends on the other side of the fence.

Cute is not what I would look for as a compliment. Especially from the 'yota boy's. Great to hear though. Now you need to hook up with lumpycam in Newport and come over here for a run.

Then ask him for a pic!

In Washington if you catch the wrong cop on the wrong day it will cost you $75.00. That's on a lifted rig. People have mounted them on bumpers. Zap mounts EA82 style on his EA81's and they stay very well.

I know some of you can't do the 27th. Unfortunately, that is shaping up to be the best day for me. Try to make it if you can. Plans as follows. McDonalds parking lot in Enumclaw. 10:00am Date. Nov.27th (Saturday) Bring food for your group. Plan for at least 4 hours on the hill. We will set up a day camp and then head in for trees. The rest of the day will be spent playing. Be prepared for COLD weather. Chances are good for snow and ice so prepare for it. Please do not bring bald tires as we almost had one go over the edge last year.

I use the large Accell Super coils. The deal with these coils and other brands for that matter isn't so much a huge spark improvement but rather the number of cycles that the coil produces. It gives a longer spark and thus better performance. BTW, I have not had any troubles with these coils. Even after the parts guy dropped the last one I got.

Definitely, thanks alot Skip.

Point taken. That being the case after it's running hook in a LSD rear diff and see what it does. For basic wheelin' and rallyn' a 3" lift with 26's will do nicely as is.

Almost every one of your questions can be answered in detail by browsing through this section.(offroad) Many posts and topics have been written on all three topics. Good luck and welcome to the board.

I completely agree. I wasn't aware of this before all was swapped in. I assumed that parts, ie, gears, lockers would be readily available. But, unfortunately, they are not available for the older stuff. The wider rear diff will only require an inch spacer on both sides to match the footprint. Within a 1/4" per side anyway. The only thing I could see as a problem point would be still having to slam your way through things with the sube gearing. It will definitely help keeping the rear traction on the ground, but the gearing and reduction from the dual T-cases makes short work of most trails we've been on so far.

Well, since I am one of two people with actual working knowledge of leaf springs on a Sube I'll see if I can shed some light on the past comments. Complete sense, Depending on what you use to suspend the rear end you may get away with 4" of lift. You'll want to use a later model instead. That rear end is quite close in width to the Nissan. To match the footprint of the front I had to add 2 1/2" spacers machined from block aluminum. You don't have to have insane travel in the front to achieve a good working relationship between front and rear. I used gen1 struts up front which allowed for a slight bit more downward travel. Having the rear suspension relaxed takes alot of stresses away from the front. It acts like the front has more travel than it really does. See above. You can experience "wheel hop" with any suspension set up. I do not experience wheel hop with mine. But I am not out beating the heck out of it either. Pathfinders have a nice link set up for the rear suspension. You may be able to cut and paste that type of set up into your vehicle cheaply. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that when you do decide to do it and how to do it overbuild the mounting set up. It will save headaches and breakdowns later on down the trail.

Maybe they should see why we use them.

You have definitely made a challenge for yourself. Justy stuff won't fit on your Hatch. EA71 is a 1600, EA81 is an 1800. The bodies are the same so the lift will work. However, that particular engine will work exccessively hard to power any size larger tires. My suggestion to you is this; keep the 2wd car for a daily driver. Find yourself a 4WD hatch or wagon and start from there. Also, shoot for the 1800 instead of the 1600. It will give you better performance in offroad applications.