Qman

I will take Todd's word over a Chilton manual any day!!

Cool, don't beat upon them too bad. It's good to have friends on the other side of the fence.

Cute is not what I would look for as a compliment. Especially from the 'yota boy's. Great to hear though. Now you need to hook up with lumpycam in Newport and come over here for a run.

Then ask him for a pic!

In Washington if you catch the wrong cop on the wrong day it will cost you $75.00. That's on a lifted rig. People have mounted them on bumpers. Zap mounts EA82 style on his EA81's and they stay very well.

I know some of you can't do the 27th. Unfortunately, that is shaping up to be the best day for me. Try to make it if you can. Plans as follows. McDonalds parking lot in Enumclaw. 10:00am Date. Nov.27th (Saturday) Bring food for your group. Plan for at least 4 hours on the hill. We will set up a day camp and then head in for trees. The rest of the day will be spent playing. Be prepared for COLD weather. Chances are good for snow and ice so prepare for it. Please do not bring bald tires as we almost had one go over the edge last year.

I use the large Accell Super coils. The deal with these coils and other brands for that matter isn't so much a huge spark improvement but rather the number of cycles that the coil produces. It gives a longer spark and thus better performance. BTW, I have not had any troubles with these coils. Even after the parts guy dropped the last one I got.

Definitely, thanks alot Skip.

Point taken. That being the case after it's running hook in a LSD rear diff and see what it does. For basic wheelin' and rallyn' a 3" lift with 26's will do nicely as is.

Almost every one of your questions can be answered in detail by browsing through this section.(offroad) Many posts and topics have been written on all three topics. Good luck and welcome to the board.

I completely agree. I wasn't aware of this before all was swapped in. I assumed that parts, ie, gears, lockers would be readily available. But, unfortunately, they are not available for the older stuff. The wider rear diff will only require an inch spacer on both sides to match the footprint. Within a 1/4" per side anyway. The only thing I could see as a problem point would be still having to slam your way through things with the sube gearing. It will definitely help keeping the rear traction on the ground, but the gearing and reduction from the dual T-cases makes short work of most trails we've been on so far.

Well, since I am one of two people with actual working knowledge of leaf springs on a Sube I'll see if I can shed some light on the past comments. Complete sense, Depending on what you use to suspend the rear end you may get away with 4" of lift. You'll want to use a later model instead. That rear end is quite close in width to the Nissan. To match the footprint of the front I had to add 2 1/2" spacers machined from block aluminum. You don't have to have insane travel in the front to achieve a good working relationship between front and rear. I used gen1 struts up front which allowed for a slight bit more downward travel. Having the rear suspension relaxed takes alot of stresses away from the front. It acts like the front has more travel than it really does. See above. You can experience "wheel hop" with any suspension set up. I do not experience wheel hop with mine. But I am not out beating the heck out of it either. Pathfinders have a nice link set up for the rear suspension. You may be able to cut and paste that type of set up into your vehicle cheaply. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that when you do decide to do it and how to do it overbuild the mounting set up. It will save headaches and breakdowns later on down the trail.

Maybe they should see why we use them.

You have definitely made a challenge for yourself. Justy stuff won't fit on your Hatch. EA71 is a 1600, EA81 is an 1800. The bodies are the same so the lift will work. However, that particular engine will work exccessively hard to power any size larger tires. My suggestion to you is this; keep the 2wd car for a daily driver. Find yourself a 4WD hatch or wagon and start from there. Also, shoot for the 1800 instead of the 1600. It will give you better performance in offroad applications.

Ask Corky, he may have gotten a couple of sets when he did his.

I wondered how you did that. I saw the centers when you posted the same pic in the lights post a little while back. Good job!

The Weber s/b every carbed Subaru owner's 1st upgrade. It will give noticable improvements. As Arch said though, it won't be neck snapping. And for the record, it has an integral transfer for hi/lo/fwd. All part of the transaxle.

Actually, adjustables are available. I just picked up A?C delco parts off of EBay that are fully adjustable and gas charged. I'll post a part # later.

It is time to prepare for this. The run will be to Greenwater, east of Enumclaw, on either Nov 27th(Thanksgiving weekend) or the following weekend of Dec 4th. A tree permit is required to get a tree.($10.00) No other pass is required to access Greenwater. Please let me know ASAP if you need a permit as they have a limited number. Also post here if you plan to go. There will be a large gathering area where we can set up canopies/pop ups and such. It is BYOFood/Beverages. Any and all vehicles and people are welcome. We had Subaru's, Dodges, Jeep's, Toyota's and Suzuki's before. A stock Sube will get to the gathering area. Plan for cold weather. Last year we had to travel through snow and ice covered roads to reach our destination. It will be a fun family environment so bring the entire family. Ken

Rear solid axle and transfer case.

Oh yeah, it's been done. My buddy Robert, Lumpycam, has done it twice. Once in the original "Unhatched" and in his current mudracer. Still running independent suspension along with thetransfer case mod. Robert was the first to do the transfer case. I can't find the picson Mikes XT6 with solid axles front and rear.

And in record time the results have been posted. http://www.oregonrally.com/content/results/rallyx/Nov_16th_by_run_group.pdf

Clutch cable could be coming apart inside the sheath or is just dry. A dry pivot on the clutch pedal can cause the same issue. I have not experienced a sticky/stiff clutch if the release fork was dry.

1) If the strut tops are starting to fail they will make noise and cause significant drag on the steering. 2) 4WD doesn't like pavement as others have already stated. To release the bind you must drive in reverse in a straight line to releave the binding. Tires with equal tread is also very important. Make sure you tires are all in the same condition and size.

Great! Enjoy it!! On a side note. I have bought a couple with that same bad tranny.