Qman

The current options are open, LSD, or welded. These options are sort of a stepping stone. When you wheel enough to require a LSD then you should also be lifted. When a LSD no longer gets you where you want to go then you weld up the rear. When you find that a welded rear diff isn't enough then it's time to get creative. For those who do not know the price of a locker of any type is more than most of you paid for you car to begin with. It seems that as hard a time people have at buying a lift how do you figure to find the $$ for a locker? Sure it may be a pain to install/uninstall axles. Most people that have had to do this have gotten pretty quick at it. Usually about 10 minutes or so. I guess what I am getting at is there is always a price to pay to do something. If 20 minutes of labor is your price then I'd say it is pretty cheap. Basically I think things need to be kept in perspective. These are not rock crawlers in stock form with 2-4" lifts and 26"+ tires. Anything less than a rock crawler really doesn't need a locker type rear end. Now when you start adding bigger lifts and transfer cases and bigger tires with different gearing and such then a locker may be the answer. Fire suit is on so take your shots!

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Mother knows best!!

Have you verified that the disty is in the right location?

Good luck !

Yes, you must pull the pistons out the top. 4 allen plugs allow access to the wrist pins and clips. Snowman has the technique I use. I use a small heel/pry bar and rest it on the lower bellhousing studs. Thread one of the PP bolts in about half way and rotate the engine until the pry bar is wedged between the bolt and stud. You can remove and install the flywheel this way. You can even get an accurate torque this way.

All bowing to Skip. You are the man!! Just noticed you are in Seattle. If the resistor is bad contact Edrach, I believe he may have a few good ones.

Cam pulleys don't go bad. If it is they boogered it. Clutch fans do not cause bad water pumps. When they go out they lose tension. Chances are they took it apart incorrectly and now it won't go back together. Tensioners do go bad but you would have heard the bearings going bad. Unfortunately, it sounds like they didn't have the experience neccessary for working on your car. Ask to see the "bad" parts. Look for gouges on the cam pulley. If they are present then they just bought you a pulley. As far as the clutch fan have them show you what is wrong with it. Spin it by hand if it is still in one piece. Is there resistance when you rotate it? If it has been taken apart then they owe you a new one. Give us details after you look at the parts and we'll try to help.

Definitely for newer vehicles. Completely different design. Good info though. The resistor pack is located on the bottom of the heater box under and behind the glovebox. There is a white connector. It is held in by 3 8mm headed screws. 2 of them are obvious, the third is located to the right of pack sort of hidden. Pull it out and check to see if the coils are broken. It may be the switch as well. If the coils look ok and not broken it is the switch. The switch in our '88 3dr has gone out before only allowing a couple of speeds.

All you guys spend way too much time on the 'puter!

I vote for this one. Figured it would be obvious heh?

Interesting, I will have to try that on a core axle. Thanks

Fram used to be a great filter. Then Allied bought them. They now use a very low grade paper element that has been known to end up in the engine. After seeing the inside of a few filters I no longer use Fram oil filters. Top end Purolator or Subaru/Nippon filters for my rigs. Most of the top end filters use an anti-backflow(I think that is the correct term) valve as that is one of the main benefits of the OEM filter. Almost all the bottom end filters do not have this. What this means is those without the valve allow the oil to drain out of the filter and subsequently out of the oil pump.(read, dry start up) Also, thicker oil in the winter is very hard on the engine. Ever notice how thick it is when you add oil when it is freezing? That is what it looks like in your engine. 20w-50 in the summer and 10w-40 in the winter. Now considering that I am not an engineer(nor do I want to be) these are solely my opinions.

The outer is not servicable. The outer CVJ can be removed with the proper tools. It basically has to be broken to get it off. Kind of a press fit requiring a press I believe.

That's rough. Could you point us to the Subaru content?

Hard to say by the cut away pic they use. I don't have the part number handy but what you are looking for is an E10 torx socket. The "E" denotes the female torx. Make sure to get the 1/4" deep socket. Snap-on or Mac are the best bets to get the right one. Using a 5/16" socket has worked but usually results in a broken socket or rounding the edges of the bolt. Using an impact driver is usually the best way to get them off. The kind you hit with a hammer not the air kind.

Without upgrading the PP you will still experience slippage.

Clutches should be fine. Grinding can be done with an electric drill motor and grinding tool. Stones have even been used. Do you have access to the LSD case? It will let you see how much needs to be ground to fit the LSD unit in the 3.90 case. Most importantly, follow the info in the USRM. Trust me, it will answer your questions.

Brakes must match the knuckle. I have an XT6 that someone swapped the Legacy front suspension from. The XT6 caliper will not bolt to it as it is too small. This may be due to the donor being a turbo. The turbo's definitely have bigger front brakes. I just picked up Chuck Sands monster XT6. It had a couple of mishaps and isn't quite shaped like an XT6 anymore.(read as multiple rollovers) But it will have the front brake stuff to correct the issues I am having with my XT6. Bonus is that it also came with the engine. Cams and custom air intake will make open class rallyX a little more competitive. Roll bar and harnesses for safety. The air struts are good for someone who may want them.

Aarons is Seattle has a couple of XT6's in there parts lot. I would look at the transmission connection to see if it has broken or fallen off.

Jack the entire rear end off the ground and then spin the wheel. If the opposite side spins the same direction it is a limited slip. If it spins the other way it is open.

When dinosaur fuels are no longer available!

That belongs to Subaru7. I came across it while combing through the gallery. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5967 And it is a Hatchback!!

And BTW, these do not affect the air bags. Still function as required.

Nice job, looks like it's meant to be. I know a builder who is doing tube bumpers for those if you are interested. They look real good on the front and improve approach angles dramatically. Here's a pic of one on Rallitek's shop truck. Side shot Underside You'll notice that it has a winch mounted as well. It also has oversized tires but no lift. They are working on a lift kit for it though.