Qman

I thought they got past that one last year. You'd think with the corporate use of that trail that they would have buried that issue already. We all have no one to blame but ourselves. We did elect the idiots that are making these decisions. Maybe not individually but collectively anyway.

From the readings I did(3 pages) they don't have time to put out any fires outside their own board. The EJ20G is a good powerplant. With the gearing they have described it should do quite well. I hope they do alot of test drives though. Sure would be a surprize to have boost come on and not be ready for it. BTW, Eric and John met a couple guys from the pirate board on our trip as well. They seemed just fine. But their reputation is not a good one on the trail. I hope they have done some repairing of that as well.

Jamie, that is sort of funny. I will go look at the link though.

Good score. The mileage is about right. The turbo will not get as good as gas mileage as a 2wd car but not bad. For the most part these were the top of the line in 1984. Here are soem basic specs on your car. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/1984glht.html

Contact John(Mudrat) in Eugene. He always has one or two for sale. His cell number is 541-729-8490, tell him Ken told you about him.

I don't have the parts book handy but you should be able to get them at any paint supply house. They generally sell the little fasteners as well.

It will bolt up. I believe you just have to tweek the horn contacts to align with the other wheel. Similar to installing a Momo or Nardi on the GL/Loayale series cars. I could be wrong but it makes sense to me.

Well, being that you are from Cali I doubt that rust will be an issue. 77K is really low miles. Almost too low. This means that it wasn't driven much and could require resealing. Not a big deal on the EA81 really. Valve covers, intake and carb gaskets, oil pump and oil pan gaskets, front and rear main seals are all that really go wrong. The '80-84 wagons are great cars. They are reliable as rain in Washington but are a little under powered. You should have a reliable long lasting vehicle. Good luck!

The shocks create the dampening. The springs are what controls the ride.

That is a negative. I have lightened flywheels in both my Brats. No clutch slipping neccessary. It does rev faster. The gas milage thing I don't know. Mine are both built up motors and weren't really built for gas mileage. I get 20-24 in my little Brat. It has the bigger of the two engines. Estimated 150hp and has zero issues with the clutch slipping. I used XT6 clutch parts though. The flywheel in this Brat weighs about 17lbs. The stock XT6 flywheel weighs about 19lbs and the stock EA82 is about 21lbs.(if my memory still works) Been alot of these lately. I guess the search functions works!

Welcome! '80-84 4WD wagons are 1600 and 1800 ohv engines. '80-84 come as 4 speed single and dual range as well as a 3sp auto with push button 4wd. 5 sp dual range transmissions can be added but requires some fab work. Upgrades for these include Weber carbs, improved exhaust, cams and larger wheels/tires(Peugoet wheels or by redrilling 6 lug truck wheels) In stock form these have about 73hp '85-94 4wd/AWDwagons are ohc engines. These come with 5sp push botton single range, 5sp dual range, 3sp auto with push button. Dual range 4WD tansmissions ended in 1988 I believe. Any '85-94 can be changed over to the dual range tranny. Upgrades for these include Weber, cams, bigger exhaust, larger wheels. In stock form the carbed model had about 83hp. The cargo area of the '85-94's is much larger. The parts are easier to find used and through most parts stores. But... these have issues that have to be considered. Timing belts which give zero advance warning when they break. Heads that are prone to cracking when the motor is overheated. It comes down to which one you like the look of the most. All were available with A/C PS. Although most of the '85+ models came standard with the PS and the older ones were an option.

The current options are open, LSD, or welded. These options are sort of a stepping stone. When you wheel enough to require a LSD then you should also be lifted. When a LSD no longer gets you where you want to go then you weld up the rear. When you find that a welded rear diff isn't enough then it's time to get creative. For those who do not know the price of a locker of any type is more than most of you paid for you car to begin with. It seems that as hard a time people have at buying a lift how do you figure to find the $$ for a locker? Sure it may be a pain to install/uninstall axles. Most people that have had to do this have gotten pretty quick at it. Usually about 10 minutes or so. I guess what I am getting at is there is always a price to pay to do something. If 20 minutes of labor is your price then I'd say it is pretty cheap. Basically I think things need to be kept in perspective. These are not rock crawlers in stock form with 2-4" lifts and 26"+ tires. Anything less than a rock crawler really doesn't need a locker type rear end. Now when you start adding bigger lifts and transfer cases and bigger tires with different gearing and such then a locker may be the answer. Fire suit is on so take your shots!

??? :-\

Mother knows best!!

Have you verified that the disty is in the right location?

Good luck !

Yes, you must pull the pistons out the top. 4 allen plugs allow access to the wrist pins and clips. Snowman has the technique I use. I use a small heel/pry bar and rest it on the lower bellhousing studs. Thread one of the PP bolts in about half way and rotate the engine until the pry bar is wedged between the bolt and stud. You can remove and install the flywheel this way. You can even get an accurate torque this way.

All bowing to Skip. You are the man!! Just noticed you are in Seattle. If the resistor is bad contact Edrach, I believe he may have a few good ones.

Cam pulleys don't go bad. If it is they boogered it. Clutch fans do not cause bad water pumps. When they go out they lose tension. Chances are they took it apart incorrectly and now it won't go back together. Tensioners do go bad but you would have heard the bearings going bad. Unfortunately, it sounds like they didn't have the experience neccessary for working on your car. Ask to see the "bad" parts. Look for gouges on the cam pulley. If they are present then they just bought you a pulley. As far as the clutch fan have them show you what is wrong with it. Spin it by hand if it is still in one piece. Is there resistance when you rotate it? If it has been taken apart then they owe you a new one. Give us details after you look at the parts and we'll try to help.

Definitely for newer vehicles. Completely different design. Good info though. The resistor pack is located on the bottom of the heater box under and behind the glovebox. There is a white connector. It is held in by 3 8mm headed screws. 2 of them are obvious, the third is located to the right of pack sort of hidden. Pull it out and check to see if the coils are broken. It may be the switch as well. If the coils look ok and not broken it is the switch. The switch in our '88 3dr has gone out before only allowing a couple of speeds.

All you guys spend way too much time on the 'puter!

I vote for this one. Figured it would be obvious heh?

Interesting, I will have to try that on a core axle. Thanks

Fram used to be a great filter. Then Allied bought them. They now use a very low grade paper element that has been known to end up in the engine. After seeing the inside of a few filters I no longer use Fram oil filters. Top end Purolator or Subaru/Nippon filters for my rigs. Most of the top end filters use an anti-backflow(I think that is the correct term) valve as that is one of the main benefits of the OEM filter. Almost all the bottom end filters do not have this. What this means is those without the valve allow the oil to drain out of the filter and subsequently out of the oil pump.(read, dry start up) Also, thicker oil in the winter is very hard on the engine. Ever notice how thick it is when you add oil when it is freezing? That is what it looks like in your engine. 20w-50 in the summer and 10w-40 in the winter. Now considering that I am not an engineer(nor do I want to be) these are solely my opinions.

The outer is not servicable. The outer CVJ can be removed with the proper tools. It basically has to be broken to get it off. Kind of a press fit requiring a press I believe.