Qman

I'll work on John(Mudrat) some more. I'll try to get him to come here. He is under time constraints as well so meeting him elsewhere may work better.

The only problem with injection is that you are now tied to the computer and sensors. Which HATE water period. Ross from Idaho came to the Hatch Patrol camp out a few years ago and got his stuff wet. Didn't run worth a crap the rest of the weekend.Otherwise, ijection doesn't notice camber on trails. You can practically turn them upside down and they'll still run.

Nothing better than a Weber. Tuning is crucial though. Installing a new one os the best bet but costly. I would never go back to a Hitachi after putting a Weber on. In "Beauty" I get 20 mpg all the time. Now, I know people are saying that is kind of low. However, that is with a motor running near 150hp and driving it like it does. So, 20 is good!! One of the biggest issues with Webers is that to get the optimum performance they can not be the only mod. Slightly bigger exhaust is a must. Not 3" exhaust but a good 2" system is a huge improvement over the stock stuff. Stock Subaru exhaust is a double wall system that measures about 1 3/4" inside.

As long as both wheels common to the differential are on the ground they both get power. Until one starts to slip then ALL the power goes to the free wheel.

I am not sure yet how early this will be going on. Alot depends on the upcoming weather event. Corky, call me tonight before bedtime. That way I'll be up when you call.

The TSB is for SPFI cars. I second the OEM PCV replacement. My Bro-in-laws '86 just started doing the same thing. Told him the same thing. Ken

Right on the spot Noah. Thanks, saved me a bunch of typing.

The operation label on the console tells you to use the clutch. The rear axle and diff have very little to do with your problem. The rear diff is open so the axles have no issues with the transfer part of your trans. There is not a center diff on this system. The system has no way to relieve bind up other than tire slippage from terrain. You are indeed experiencing bind. The info you got to back up will 99% of the time remedy the problem. Also, never use it on a surface that does not allow tire slippage, ie, tarmac, street, concrete, etc. The problem lies in one or more of the following issues. Using the 4WD system in/on the wrong situations and surfaces. Incorrectly matched tires, diferent size/diameter. This system is very sensitive to small differences in tire size. Make sure they are the same brand, size and wear is even.

Here's a pic of the long bed Brat.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/brats/miscphotos/90-finland-longbed1.jpg The wheel base is the same. The only difference is the longer bed. I didn't know they were available outside of Europe.

Northwet is considering coming by my place on his way east. Who can be here early Saturday for a quick meet and greet? Then we can play the rest of the day by ear. Ken

No bling on a HP rig!! Check with 4wheel parts. Coopers are OK. I ran them on my Hatch but as soon as I bolted TSL's on it there was no going back. The SSR's are the best all round tire for mud, rocks and whatever else you'll find in Spokie.

Tell that to the guy who has won production class two years in a row in Oregon Region rallyX. Watching it run has given me a new appreciation for them. Quick and agile and the abilty to rev to 10K is impressive.

Am I the only one who sees an old Saab when I look at that grill?

We also have the hand held wire feed attachment. This is a pic that shows the welder(blue box), dual battery set up, under hood lights, relay block for the off-road lights and the winch wiring from the drycell battery.

I thought they got past that one last year. You'd think with the corporate use of that trail that they would have buried that issue already. We all have no one to blame but ourselves. We did elect the idiots that are making these decisions. Maybe not individually but collectively anyway.

From the readings I did(3 pages) they don't have time to put out any fires outside their own board. The EJ20G is a good powerplant. With the gearing they have described it should do quite well. I hope they do alot of test drives though. Sure would be a surprize to have boost come on and not be ready for it. BTW, Eric and John met a couple guys from the pirate board on our trip as well. They seemed just fine. But their reputation is not a good one on the trail. I hope they have done some repairing of that as well.

Jamie, that is sort of funny. I will go look at the link though.

Good score. The mileage is about right. The turbo will not get as good as gas mileage as a 2wd car but not bad. For the most part these were the top of the line in 1984. Here are soem basic specs on your car. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/1984glht.html

Contact John(Mudrat) in Eugene. He always has one or two for sale. His cell number is 541-729-8490, tell him Ken told you about him.

I don't have the parts book handy but you should be able to get them at any paint supply house. They generally sell the little fasteners as well.

It will bolt up. I believe you just have to tweek the horn contacts to align with the other wheel. Similar to installing a Momo or Nardi on the GL/Loayale series cars. I could be wrong but it makes sense to me.

Well, being that you are from Cali I doubt that rust will be an issue. 77K is really low miles. Almost too low. This means that it wasn't driven much and could require resealing. Not a big deal on the EA81 really. Valve covers, intake and carb gaskets, oil pump and oil pan gaskets, front and rear main seals are all that really go wrong. The '80-84 wagons are great cars. They are reliable as rain in Washington but are a little under powered. You should have a reliable long lasting vehicle. Good luck!

The shocks create the dampening. The springs are what controls the ride.

That is a negative. I have lightened flywheels in both my Brats. No clutch slipping neccessary. It does rev faster. The gas milage thing I don't know. Mine are both built up motors and weren't really built for gas mileage. I get 20-24 in my little Brat. It has the bigger of the two engines. Estimated 150hp and has zero issues with the clutch slipping. I used XT6 clutch parts though. The flywheel in this Brat weighs about 17lbs. The stock XT6 flywheel weighs about 19lbs and the stock EA82 is about 21lbs.(if my memory still works) Been alot of these lately. I guess the search functions works!

Welcome! '80-84 4WD wagons are 1600 and 1800 ohv engines. '80-84 come as 4 speed single and dual range as well as a 3sp auto with push button 4wd. 5 sp dual range transmissions can be added but requires some fab work. Upgrades for these include Weber carbs, improved exhaust, cams and larger wheels/tires(Peugoet wheels or by redrilling 6 lug truck wheels) In stock form these have about 73hp '85-94 4wd/AWDwagons are ohc engines. These come with 5sp push botton single range, 5sp dual range, 3sp auto with push button. Dual range 4WD tansmissions ended in 1988 I believe. Any '85-94 can be changed over to the dual range tranny. Upgrades for these include Weber, cams, bigger exhaust, larger wheels. In stock form the carbed model had about 83hp. The cargo area of the '85-94's is much larger. The parts are easier to find used and through most parts stores. But... these have issues that have to be considered. Timing belts which give zero advance warning when they break. Heads that are prone to cracking when the motor is overheated. It comes down to which one you like the look of the most. All were available with A/C PS. Although most of the '85+ models came standard with the PS and the older ones were an option.