Qman

Yep, going to take a nap now and be up this afternoon. You still got my number don't you?

I am not aware of such an adapter. Might try calling Carbs Unlimited in Fife and ask them. Give me a call or drop by Greg. I want to show you something.

Schedule 40 pipe works real well if you heat the bends as you go. It allows the metal to stretch without buckling(for the most part). Just a little FYI.

Good news! Your story made it sound like it was left to be towed by the city.

One day.

Ouch! We get the Federal Exise Tax and disposal fee plus sales tax(between 8-9%, depending on the area). I love paying for governmental retirement funds

OMG, @ Caleb. I just about hurt myself falling out of the chair when that link opened up. That's wrong Caleb, very, very wrong!!

The SSR's aren't near as loud as the TSL's(nylon). Those would wake the dead and then hypnotise them asleep again. If you want an offroad tire for street use the BFG's are hard enough to stand up to day to day street use but good enough for the weekend road trip. Swampers are too expensive to wear them out on the street!

The only problem with that will be when the last registered owner(Nick) get the bill for the impound and storage fees.

Use "Goof Off" use small amounts and a Qtip and work quickly. That stuff will take just about anything off.

This was also at Reiter. We think it was an '83 or '84 GL wagon. We did salavage some parts off of it. Rear diff, front control arms and one rear axle.

Front shot

We found this at Reiter pit one day

Same company makes both. The TrXus are cool looking tires. But the smallest they come is 30", right? Not many people want or even can run that size of tire. I looked at them briefly but chose the proven capability of the SSR(radial version of the TSL). Best rated all-round off-road tire on the market by Off Road magazine. I'm not arguing the point on which tires to buy or use. Each individual has their own opinion. Mine is based on my actual experiences and preferences. To answers Arch's question. The swampers will feel pretty stable. They may feel a little soft on hard corners. Part of that may also be attributed to the fact that I run without a sway bar up front. I didn't notice any ill-effects from street driving.

See above posts ^^

I have one for a hatchback. I had it in mine before it retired. It was built by Drivelines NW. Fully servicable u-joints and completely balanced. All you need is to make a center mount for the carrier bearing. Contact me if interested @ Qman4x4@direcway.com

I agree, for the most part. But paying fair market value for something is just that, Fair. Most of the time you find ones like that in the junkyard is because some mechanic treid to bend them over and they just decided that they could get a new car with less headaches. Very few of the big offroaders are ever going to give respect for anything but what they are driving so don't wait for that. But I will stand by my original post and say that if the Hatch he is looking for is in good shape it is worth paying for. Escpecially considering his area. Salt sucks!!

That's weird, the only thing that is related to the engine install would be the HH. Did you check to make sure that nothing is pinched between crossmembers or the block or motor mounts or anything like that? I suppose it could be purely coincidental and the caliper just froze.

And something else to consider is this. If all Subaru's could be had for free or pennies on the dollar what would yours be worth?

Not really, you'll notice, or not, that I said most not all. And I am willing to bet that all/most had to be repair to some extent to make them road worthy.

My guess is that it is a Carter/Weber and the base bolts are/have loosened up. If this is true, you have to remove it and tighten them from the bottom.

Looks like the only fit single headlight models. Large squarish replacement lights.

This model doesn't have timing belts. The light does come on at 60,000 mile intervals to have the EGR valve serviced. He's asking $850.00. If it needs the additional work to pass DEQ and the blue book value is $830. Then you should present that to him as such and offer him $730.00. The only problem with that is he may decline your offer. A Subaru of that age that isn't rusted all over is a rare find in Maryland. I would crawl under it and verify the wheel well rust hasn't migrated into the frame rails or any of the undercarraige for that matter. Don't let the stories of free and next to nothing Subes steer you away from this one. Very few of those freebies are worth more than parts. Good luck!

Your hill holder cable is adjusted too tight. Loosen that cable and your brakes will return to normal after you bleed the RF.

My guess would be that adjustment is attained by adding small shims. By using tapered shims you could feasibly make small adjustments to both toe and camber. Probably not enough to get the negative camber that Will is after though.