Qman

Karin, some do and some don't. Sounds like you have the older style gen2 wheels. They should take the plastic rings.

Interesting for sure. I used Prolong in both of mine. Do not have anything to compare them to as I did this first thing.

The mechanical fan is hitting the shroud and radiator, correct? For this to happen the engine has to move. My guess is that you stuffed mud/debris between the cross member and engine. That would also explain the inability to shift in and out of 4WD. The knocking could be that the oil pan has pushed up against the pick up tube for the oil pump and you are not getting adequate oil flow. These are speculations at this point. Check it out and let us know.

That's right. The website is up and running. We even got a domain that's easy to remember. www.westcoastsubarushow.com I chose the logo for the site. However, I would like permission to use any and all logo's submitted. They all may have a special place in some part of the show. A special thanks goes out to SubaruTex. He did a great job getting this together for us on short notice!

For the record. The RX,GL, etc do not have a rear strut. They have rear coil overs. This is a mute point but the shock is available in many aftermarket forms. The problem is going to be that the dampening rate will be the standard or a split between the two. I would guess that the KYB's would have the best dampening. The biggest thing to help rear handling will be new springs. I have a local spring shop that should be able to make them. I am going to see if they can make lowering and raising springs with the correct rates.

First use the OEM o-ring. Second, when applying any type of sealant to the cam case make sure you clean out the seal journal. I have used all kinds of seal for this job. All seem to work OK. Just have to clean out that little groove.

Does the sound occur when the steering wheel is turning or when the wheels are turning?

Check the routing. I don't recall that being a problem in the past. As far as being off what tires are you running? The only way the change that is to go to a speedo shop. I don't know if they can recalibrate it or not.

Cool, see what we can do Bringing the '78 is a great idea. Considering the 4th previous owner is who started the WCSS. Hey Brad, off the topic, I understand you met a friend of mine a while back. Stopped to ask about buying the rusty parts Brat.

The only way to know for sure is to test fit a set. Brian, your wagon is an EA81 and his is an EA82. They have a huge difference in the wheel wells. What doesn't fit yours will probably fit his.

Yep!

Metric to SAE equivalents Grade 8 = Grade 5 Grade 10 = Grade 8 The longer bolts will be almost impossible to find in a fine thread. When I built the lift for my maroon hatch I ended up using a course thread bolt. The course threaded bolt uses a slightly larger hole then the fine threaded one. Just have to rethread the hole. I will hold fine.

That's right Brad. But I figured he'd know that already. It won't matter though with the fit of the door on the car.

The only difference between the two will be the mirrors. The trim may be a little different as well. Pretty basic swap. Remove bolts swap doors, reinstall bolts and align the door by loosening the bolts slightly and adjusting to fit.

Cool! How's everything else? Been awhile since I saw you lurking around.

Any XT or XT6 wheel with telescope will not fit on a Loyale/GL column. It doesn't matter if the wheel is locked or not to get one off. One screw in the lower leg and the pad pops off to reveal the nut.

Look for an '84 wagon 4WD manual trans. These came with the Hitachi(always). Someone in your area may be able to assist you as well.

Nice job Brad. I think this one is right up there with the works of Zap!!

You have the right adapter. It is the manifold that is wrong. It very well could have come out of the Brat. It is the Carter/Weber 1bbl manifold. You need a Hitachi 2bbl manifold.

Yep, I think Brian works at Red Robin p/t. And yes, You do know who made that decal Mick. Brian is a member of the Rally Brat Racing team.

Please read the FAQ that is stickied at the top of the page. A lot of hours went into it to answer most of the questions that come up for off road Subaru's.

The dif lock is for the center diff not the front. Will, try contacting Randy's Ring and Pinion. They are on line. They are in Washington state. They do alot of custom stuff but I don't know if they build custom one off's though.

search better, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32987 j/k

I have run welded and so have a number of our members from the Hatch Patrol. There have been no ill effects so far. As long as you make sure not to take very tight turns(read; steering wheel lock to lock) and do not get on the throttle while turning all should be fine. Granted it usually only takes 10-15 minutes to install one axle. Some just don't want to wait that long to play.

OK, lets start with the passenger front. Open the door and look in the lower rear corner of the body. There should be a plunger style switch that activates the interior lights and the door ajar sensor. It should have a rubber cover over it. These covers break and come off over time. Check for the presence of the switch and whether or not the cover is there as well. The switch pops into place but has keepers that have to be accessed from the interior side. You have to remove the B-pillar interior trim to get to it. Let us know what you find.