Qman

You definitely want to take the buy back option. The lift, motor, trans, rear brakes, bars and front bumper look savable. Even the wheels and tires might be OK. Good luck, there are a number of them on EBay right now.

That is a shame. I am really glad to hear that you were indeed able to walk away, literally. The roll bar has become an essential part of our offroad equipment for that exact reason. I am sure Zap can come up with a bunch of pics to prove condition and even some numbers for what all was put in it when he had it. Good luck!!

The rallye tires will work well for your application. In the states we can get used for around $40-50/tire(US funds). The problem with trying to find a big enough tire yet small enough to fit leaves you with an extremely small selection of mostly snow tires. Some indeed have a fairly aggressive pattern but only have a 1 or 2 ply sidewall. These do not hold up well to rocks and debri you would encounter on FS roads, washouts and such. Other than that it looks like you have a good handle on what you want for it. Should work out well.

I too prefer etched. Mug or pint doesn't matter to me. Personalized as well. My choices are, OZ5 Q2 SJ8 __________________________________________________________________ NOTE I added numbers to each logo for easier identification. I am trying to get the poll function added to this forum. If/when it does I will construct a poll for it. __________________________________________________________________ Good start Garner. Keep up with it though as time flies and the show is less than 4 months away.

I am in no way a Justy expert. I will try to help a bit if I can though. For tires and wheels I would say go with the 13's. They are stock for 4WD Justy's(?). I would suggest a rallye type tire. Kuhmo, Pirelli, Silverstone are three that come to mind. If you contact some of the club and stage rallyists in your area you may be able to find some used but still in good shape for a little cheaper. As far as lifting a Justy goes, I don't have the answer for that one. If you are flat towing it I would run a set of stock street tires on it and change to the offroad tires to lengthen life. We did have a couple compete in RallyX last year and one won class for the 2nd year in a row. If I can come up with more I will add it. Good luck!

Go to https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ I know most of the people there personally. They are very dependable and Jason can handle just about anything. Make sure to ask for internet pricing. It is about 20% less than retail.

Chances are the passenger side belt let go due to a bad tensioner. The belts would not have been touched during a waterpump replacement.

Thanks Zap, you beat me to it. The Frequently Asked Questions post has a bountiful amount of information for everything related to a lifted Subaru and offroading. Feel free to read it as well. It is stickied at the top of this forum.

I am willing to bet it is set to TDC instead of the reference marks as well. Ignorance does not make someone a con artist. Trying to cover your tracks by not doing the work that you charge for is a crime. If you can find the receipt you will have a leg to stand on. Especially if you, yourself get it back together and running by just realigning the belts. The only bad thing is it sat for so long. Good luck.

Sorry, but no. They decided not to allow lifted rigs. But by all means do come check one out. Meet the regulars and hang out for a while.

WOW, I wouldn't have guessed that much. Are there trailer brakes options for those? Otherwise, a novel pic for proof but not a good idea to do on a regular basis.

Just look at the rear tires. What would the tongue weight be for that trailer? The rear tires are not even squatting. As far as the camp trailer, they only weigh about 500lbs. If it has electric brakes the Sube would only have issues when going up hill. And...tow rigs don't get any better than a big block powered 'burban.

Not neccessarily true. The general buying public drives this more than bureacrats. The public looks for new and innovative things constantly. The Nader's of the world show deficencies(real or make believe) and push to have them repaired, redesigned or removed. The drive for more powerful cars that maintain some sort of fuel efficiency drove many changes in the '80's, 90's and to date. Take the WRX, STi, Evo, Cadillac, Hemi Dodges(500hp truck!) are all the effect of people wanting power back into their vehicles.(though fuel efficiency may be questioned) Some manufacturers listen and some don't. But if you look around most of the top models in every line have a 300hp vehicle to offer. And most have all-wheel drive features to boot.

BTW, the 4 bolts that hold the hub on are 14's. When pulling an old/used part make sure there isn't any slop in the ones you are pulling. Good luck Dave. Oh yeah, thanks a bunch. It was a great gesture. Ken

Matt may take offence though. Seems wrong to have two pickles in Washington. Be original.

The original winch is nothing more that a superwinch 1500 painted yellow. With a snatch/block/pulley it will work OK for your Brat Will. Are you adding it to the original bumper? A come-along is a good extra piece of trail gear in case your winch can't pull you all the way out. That being said. I run a Superwinch 4500. It is big and takes up a bit of room when not in use. Mine is set up on a portable mount for front and rear use. I also have pulley set for it and have used it to roll over 'yota's and fullsized Chevy's. Still haven't had to roll over anyone else yet.(knocks on wood) The optimum size winch is around 3500lbs. Most Brats will tip the scales around 1800-1900lbs. Some with heavy mods will weigh ALOT more.

It varies by years somewhat. Ratios vary from 3.90-4.11. Edit; I read the post again. The ratio's I posted are for EJ22T in the USDM Legacy's.

You will pay more because it is considered an oversized pkg. Doesn't really matter who you send it with.

Oil level and possible bad ujoint. Did you know the history of this trans?

Yes

Tapered rear springs for the SS. This means the struts and front springs will fit. I have a complete ver5 STi suspension and white line springs along with camber plates for the front and STi top mounts for the rear. I haven't gotten to the point to verify that the rear springs will or won't fit.

First, go here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?c=1 This is the USRM-repair and mod section. The link is located on the top header of the message board. Second, click on suspension. Third, click on rear drum to rear disc conversion.

Stock vs. stock? There is not much comparison. The SS will smoke it power wise. Ride wise it is a tad softer. (But should still hold a corner just fine) Unless the struts have been replaced. Then it may compare favorably. The nice thing about the SS is that there are actually aftermarket parts for it. And the 2.2T is very dependable. And no where as finicky as the EA82T.

What would it cost? Maybe Mason County would be interested? Wildfires are definitely serious business. I hope you have a very quiet summer.

Adapters A few things to consider on this. Price, functionality, feasablity, usablity. Price; While always a consideration can be overcome. Functionality; How will your rig function with a wider stance? How will the bearings hold up to the increased stresses of larger wheels and tires as well as being pushed 1 1/2+" out away from center. Feasability; The 5 lug pattern(5X100) just won't fit into the adapter for 4 lug(4X140) Spacing is all wrong. This is not to say that a different pattern wouldn't work. Usability; I had to use spacers for the Nissan diff on my Brat. I didn't like the idea of 2 1/2" spacers sticking out off of the drums like that. But, I didn't have much of a choice without running two different types(offsets) of wheels. As the wheels go out away from the car the need for larger mudflaps and flares to keep the treads within allowable limits increase the price. Ideally, I think the answer lies in the hub not an adapter. If a "new" hub could be designed and built that would accomodate a different pattern then that would be the best of all worlds. Wheels People have built custom wheels in the past. Bratsrus1(Jerry) has built 2 sets of 14's I believe. Both were a bit on the heavy side. Most manufacturers will add your center to another blank. Cost is an issue here. Starting with blank, unstamped wheels is another option but most wheels don't have a hub opening large enough. Most truck wheels will have a big enough hub opening. Another problem is that most wheel manufactures will not retool to accomodate a 20+ yr old vehicle. There simply isn't enough revenue for them to alter dies and such. I had a long talk with some people at ARB about this type of thing. Bottom line is that manufacturers want to see very large returns on there investments. Making our lives easier really don't factor into the equation. Just a few pros and cons for people to consider. There are viable options on the table already. Tried and true methods. You and others will have to overcome this before others will pay good money for the product. I am not saying don't try it. I am a firm believer that trial and error are the best methods to broaden ones horizons. What I am suggesting is to not limit your thoughts to "old" thinking.