Qman

The last word I had(from a good source) said that they were going a different direction. More of associations than putting them on.

That's the EA82 parts book right? How much shipped to me at 98390?

I did it with a Nardi wheel in my Brat. It required removing the hubs from both wheels and welding the old hub into the new wheel. There are adapters available but they are very hard to find.

John, I am sending you a PDF file. It is from the XT/6 manual and should be the right numbers and specifications. Ken

I don't know if the rebuild kit exsists anymore. I don't have a part number but I do remember someone saying that you couldn't get the clutch packs anymore.

I'll see if I can come up with more.

Hey Ken, call John in Eugene. He has done a couple of them and can probably give you most of the details you need. You can email him at mudrat79@hotmail.com as well. Ken

Pretty much if you have some experience in changing them. The only time you'll have a problem with an axle is if you free rev a wheel and drop it on to the ground. Then the axle can let go. If you finess things you minimize the chances of that.

I'll get ahold of a guy I know and let you know. Send me your number so I can get a hold of you. Ken

These are pretty stout little machines. They have proven what they can do in stock form over and over again. Considering what you use your Brat for the only thing that will help, to a point that you would really notice, would be some 80 series tires. They will give you slightly more clearance. But most importantly they will give a little more cushion between the road and your suspension. And maybe adjusting the factory suspension adjustments up for a stiffer ride and slightly more clearance. Chances are the only way you will get suspension damage is if you slip off the road surface into a ditch or something. At that point, your going to get damage. Stiffening your control arms and radius rods will only move the damage to someplace you're not prepared to repair. Think of the control arm and radius rods as fuses. They are relatively easy to replace on the trail/road. They don't take up much space under a seat or in the bed. And they won't cause irrepairable damage to something else. I have replaced a few on the trail(both mine and others) and I would rather replace one or both of them rather than trying to repair a broken bolt from a body mount or worse. Obviously, this is my opinion and what you decide to do is your decision. Good luck.

The pick up coil is just that. These do not have points. You can get a used pick up or distributor from the junk yard and that would probably solve your problems. If you want a new/different vehicle you need to weigh what you do with your vehicle. Then give us a few details and we can try to help you.

Been thinking that I haven't heard from you in a while. Where you been?

You need the E10 torx socket. Here are the results from the search "E10 torx" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=57837

I am working on a readers rides article. All/most of the info will be there when I complete it.

That's the last two and... I do know some of my state history.

No paper clips!!!!! Just plug it in to the matching green connector. Couldn't tell you what the common codes are for an Australian Subaru as many things are different from ours.

It is generally near the computer. As was pointed out in your other post it will probably be up under the dash(computer for RH drive) and green in color(plug). It is a single wire in and out. Plug it in and look for the flashes from your computer LED.

Good to meet Pat face to face. We managed a little repack and remedied a couple small issues. The trip east should be "smooth" from here any way. Good luck and safe Journeys Pat.

As you are from Wisconsin USA the comp(if equipped) will be located under the steering column. Remove the plastic cover from under the dash under the column. Look up and if you have one you'll see it. Yes, EA81 is your motor. Look behind and to the left of the distributor. It will be stamped in the block.

The IRS isn't futile. But...you will never get the travel out of it that you will get from solid and leafs or link type suspension. As far as beefing things up I have some theories. The nice thing about the Subes is you know what the weak points are. Strut rods and lower control arms. Front and rear axles are also a weaker link. But, the thing to consider is that these sort of act like fuses if you will. You know in advance these could break. You can bring a spare with you and be back on the road in 30 minutes or less. Now if you start cryogenic treatments on CV/DOJ cups where is that fuse going to move to? Improvements are good but it is of great benefit to know what will break instead of not knowing and having to leave your rig on the trail. There are many things that can be improved and should be at some point. It will require some heavy research to make sure you do not cause other damage that can't be fixed so easily. Just food for thought.

Sorry, but, I call BS on that one. We do not have the benefit of buying big ticket items off the shelf for these vehicles. Fabrication, creativity and research are the best options. You won't find that kind ofinvestment in a Suabru offroader. And, if you do that person should probably be commited. You also will be hard pressed to find anyone who will give aftermarket support for a vehicle that is not mainstream. Given timethat may change. But it took 30+yrs for the support network for Jeeps to take form. I think we've come along way in under 5yrs. No offense meant or taken.

Have you seen my Brat? Pics or mod list or anything? Practical... I have been called alot of things, some are definitely not mentionable here. I have more time and money invested into my rig than I care to add up. However, I think realistic may be a better description. I do indeed voice my opinions but I will not force someone to follow my lead. If a locker was available for my nissan rearend I would already have one. But alas, there isn't one for the older nissan rearends. Most, but not all of the enthusiasts here are budgeted low for their hobby. These are not high dollar rigs for a number of reasons. Number one being they are more or less disposable. You won't get a bunch of people to buy into an unknown price or even a guesstimate. Besides, the opne thing most people keep forgetting is that the diff isn't the weak link here. The axles are and by adding the extra stress you will hammer them even more. I am not saying don't do it. If you can manage it and get something that proves reliable and affordable for the common Sube owner then you will probably have a market. BTW, here's a practical list of mods and accessories on my rig. 10"+ lift 31/10.50R15 SSR's Transfer case mod Solid rear end with leaf springs(4.37 final ratio)(with estimated 20" combined travel) 6 lug conversion in the front On-board welder Front and rear mounts for winch Dual batteries Custom roll bar and bumpers(made by me) Front end relocated forward 2 1/2" 120hp EA81 motor with 5 sp D/R(torque cams and Weber) Currently researching new front suspension to get more travel. Have it about 90% worked out. As you can see, pushing the envelope is not something new to me. Don't give up on it but don't be surprised if not many jump at the chance until it is proven and a solid price is established.

The one piece radio boxes cam in 2wd's.

Yep! I'll call now.

No. There are high and low consoles though. The high ones have a hinged top that doubles as an arm rest.