Qman

Can't keep up with your purchases Rich. How about an '87 Turbo XT?

For the obvious reasons!

Just a cool pic!

Back on topic. The first run for my Hatch and one of the most impressive obstacles to date. And the only time Eric wouldn't follow me!

This isn't what was technically asked for but it is off the pavement and probably one of the only times you'll see a pic of an STi off the street.

This is not meant to be derogartory by any means. The one thing I hear is that you are trying to make a clutch hold up under extreme conditions. Unfortunately I have never seen a clutch that will do that. I have been around racing since I was born. Clutches usually have to be replaced long before a normal driving clutch would need to be. It's just one of the expenses of racing. Finding one that will last a little longer may be possible. But finding one that will last for 50K+ will probably be like finding the pot at the end of the rainbow. It may exsist but no one has ever seen it. Don't give up but don't be dissapointed if you dump big$$ and find that it won't last much longer than the original. Good luck in you quest.

Well, you've already found one of the best sources in Washington right here. Give us a list of what you are looking for and I'm sure one of the locals can help you out.Welcome to the board.

There isn't as much benefit for the rear. If there is significant rust "Bobbing" might be an alternative. There are some pics Of "Bob" the Brat on the site as well.

Very nice start. I will suggest that you trim the bottom of the front fenders though. Look through the Hatch Patrol website and you'll get the idea what needs to be cut. It will save the buckling effects of hitting the bottom of the fender on obsticles.

Definitely replace. It may be a few bucks you weren't planning to spend but anything brake related is worth the money!!

There have been reports of bad super coils. I know of a few that failed almost immediately. The obvious question would be is the firing order correct? 1, 3, 2, 4.

There is a difference between the wheels. The offset is slightly different. As you can see there is a measurable difference. You can grind the caliper to clear but it could cause problems down the road. I would suggest that you just remount them. BTW, the older wheels will not hit on the rear drum or discs.

Just what you always wanted. And it's not so perfect that a scratch will make you sad.

Wheel adapters have been a long running discussion. I guess the only way to find out is to contact them and see what the cost would be. I run a spacer similar to those on my BIG Brat. But I needed them to get the proper spacing for the footprint. The Nissan rear was almost 5" narrower than the Sube. Same bolt pattern just a spacer.

You have to rmove the cluster cover. There are three hidden screws. One behind the vent on the left end and two under the small vertical cover on the right hand edge. The switch is attached to this cover.

The return line goes to the filter(top hose). The vent line goes back to the tank. If you plug the lines you will experience vapor lock type problems. If you want to keep the canister then leave the fittings open or run dumby lines to no where.

Look closer at the brakes. Those are complete STi components. 4 pot Brembos up front and 2 pots in the rear. The disc size is also much larger than the XT6

Nice Nick, when did you get the new rig?

After the last rollover ORG WILL NOT allow a lifted rig to run. It's simply a matter of preference. What do you do more of, Rallying or 4Xing?

Dude, headposts aren't for cars :cool: You really need to get out more!

Mike, Jason is right on this one. You are trying to complicate an easy install. Everything you need to adapt a Weber is on your Hitachi. Including the linkage set up. Using the fitting from the Hitachi takes care of the inlet and overflow hoses for the carb. The vent line from the canister is left unhooked. Plugging this will cause a vapor lock condition. NOTE; If your Weber's fitting isn't threaded you will need to get a 1/8 NPT tap and thread the inlet hole. The tap will follow the hole so it should be almost impossible the make a mistake threading it. Make sure you use teflon tape or similar sealant when installing the fitting. Good luck!!

EA82's, ER27's, EJ20's, EJ22's have all been installed in Gen2 rigs. Both in Australia and the states. There are a couple of STi Brats/Brumby's running around Australia. There is a couple of ER27 Brats and a Hatchback running in the states. A 2.2 in a '80 or '81 wagon. A 2.2 in Mudrat's, "Weeble", that ran the Rubicon. A 2.2 in a Brat in Seattle. An EA82T in a Gen1 Brat in Oregon. An EJ20G in a RX 3dr. So, yes, it has been done with some success. There should be info in a dozen or so posts and threads. Try a search for "transplants".

I've got one on my '85 Brat. Protecting my perfect pad.

I agree, loos to be XT6 mirrors. If so they won't "BOLT UP" to a Loyale body style vehicle. May be able to fab something to make them work though. BTW, the XT/6 is considered a coupe as well.

More info added to the quote in bold type.