Qman

I don't know, I would assume so as we aren't the only ones with that type of system. Call around and check with different parts outlets.

Probably not. 2 too many cylinders. Hook up an aftermarket one to verify. They adjust for the 4, 6, and 8 cylinder motors. Or hook i tup to a diagnostic scope and check the rpm's that way.

Interesting, I wonder where the Justy will land too? If they aren't going to follow the multipliers then why have them? The ORG ezboard is down right now so I can't view the topic.

Cool, 6 dates, I wonder if all events will be point events this year?

Clarification, the strut nuts are 21mm and the rear torsion bar bolt is 19mm.

The water portsare too small in the Sube to use any of the wonder cures. The sealer plugs anything "it" sees as a leak. That and you never get that stuff out. Seen many a ruined radiator from that stuff.

Just follow the USRM to the letter. I have done many and I wrote the document you will be following. Use a couple of shop rags to set everything on. And make sure that the you keep the 3.90 ring gear with the 3.90 side cover/bearing races. It will keep the gear mesh correct.

Take into consideration that the Outback is "Just a strut lift".

I am not an advocate for deceit but... it wouldn't be any different than anyone that adds go fast parts and removes them if there is a problem later.

I seem to get the best performance and mileage from Chevron. I run Supreme in all of mine though. 2 Brats and Turbo Legacy all require it.

Sounds more like you need an AWD vehicle instead of 4WD. Straight line in 4WD on the pavement won't cause bind. However, anything other than straight will! 4WD is designed for conditions that cause poor traction when 4WD is needed. Unless you have extensive mods launching in 4WD will do nothing but cause unneeded wear and damage to your drivetrain.

Can't keep up with your purchases Rich. How about an '87 Turbo XT?

For the obvious reasons!

Just a cool pic!

Back on topic. The first run for my Hatch and one of the most impressive obstacles to date. And the only time Eric wouldn't follow me!

This isn't what was technically asked for but it is off the pavement and probably one of the only times you'll see a pic of an STi off the street.

This is not meant to be derogartory by any means. The one thing I hear is that you are trying to make a clutch hold up under extreme conditions. Unfortunately I have never seen a clutch that will do that. I have been around racing since I was born. Clutches usually have to be replaced long before a normal driving clutch would need to be. It's just one of the expenses of racing. Finding one that will last a little longer may be possible. But finding one that will last for 50K+ will probably be like finding the pot at the end of the rainbow. It may exsist but no one has ever seen it. Don't give up but don't be dissapointed if you dump big$$ and find that it won't last much longer than the original. Good luck in you quest.

Well, you've already found one of the best sources in Washington right here. Give us a list of what you are looking for and I'm sure one of the locals can help you out.Welcome to the board.

There isn't as much benefit for the rear. If there is significant rust "Bobbing" might be an alternative. There are some pics Of "Bob" the Brat on the site as well.

Very nice start. I will suggest that you trim the bottom of the front fenders though. Look through the Hatch Patrol website and you'll get the idea what needs to be cut. It will save the buckling effects of hitting the bottom of the fender on obsticles.

Definitely replace. It may be a few bucks you weren't planning to spend but anything brake related is worth the money!!

There have been reports of bad super coils. I know of a few that failed almost immediately. The obvious question would be is the firing order correct? 1, 3, 2, 4.

There is a difference between the wheels. The offset is slightly different. As you can see there is a measurable difference. You can grind the caliper to clear but it could cause problems down the road. I would suggest that you just remount them. BTW, the older wheels will not hit on the rear drum or discs.

Just what you always wanted. And it's not so perfect that a scratch will make you sad.

Wheel adapters have been a long running discussion. I guess the only way to find out is to contact them and see what the cost would be. I run a spacer similar to those on my BIG Brat. But I needed them to get the proper spacing for the footprint. The Nissan rear was almost 5" narrower than the Sube. Same bolt pattern just a spacer.