Qman

OK, I do remember the first post. You asked what else should be checked or replaced at this time. You were given good advice. Not neccessarily that these parts had to be replaced but that it would be easier to replace them now considering the age of the vehicle. I also told you to check the parts they replaced to verify the condition and get back to us. You did neither. You jumped to a conclusion that this is now our responsibility? Seems to me that they were very quick to give you a discount. Why is that? So, instead of coming unglued I would suggest that you examine the entire incident and see where you end up. I am sorry that your bill ended up so high. Way too much money for the job they did. I don't know any shop that charges that much per hour. Good luck with the car and BTW, it won't need any repairs for quite a while if that is any consolation.

Do not commit to tires until you have it built. I had to do some other mods once I tried to put 31's on it. I ended up moving the front end forward 2 1/2 inches to clear the tire wheel combination. I used rear wheel drive offset. That moved the tire outward and caused the tires to hit the rear of the fenderwell on turns. I'll try to verify the offset.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7949164785&category=33630

Only if the EA71 is a 2nd generation. These had the starter on the drivers side like the EA81. You'll be able to tell by the starter "hump" in the engine bellhousing. Center hump no go, side hump good to go!

Common occurance from overheated exhaust. Usually happens if you don't kick it down off of high idle setting. If you start it and let it idle for a minute then tap the gas it should go to the second high idle setting. Our old '84 would do this if we didn't do that or let it idle too long.

That's about it. I used the R180 in the front from the Nissan as well. I don't know for sure what gears are available aftermarket it either.

With the width of the '79 the 'yota axles will be too wide. The Nissan will be the right width but the spring perches will have to be moved as it is. The width, if memory still works, of the Nissan is 50". The 'yota's come in at 54" and 58". Factory Nissan gear sets come in 4.37/1 and 4.63/1. I am not a big fan of either axle but the Nissan fits this application better. Besides, it will look kind of rediculous with the entire tire sticking out of the fenderwell. FYI, the Nissan was too narrow for the Gen2 Brat. The spring perches matched up perfectly though. I had to space it out to make it match the front track.

The best set up for the Gen1 is the narrower Nissan axle from the same Nissan 720 P/U. Mount a diff up front and run IFS. That way you can run the Nissan transfer case and have zero problems. I have histerical travel in the rear and I am working on a front mod that will increase travel in the front with the independent. Toyota or Sami is the only good way to go for solid front and rear. Scott's Brat is well put together. His H-6 has more power than my built EA81. However, I have superior gearing and far better travel. We can both get to the same places. But he'll have to work alot harder to get there.

The EJ18 seems like a fine little motor. We have one in our '93 Impreza L 5sp AWD. Get's great gas mileage as well. It was available in most base model Imp's in '93 and '94. Most were in front of fwd trans and some auto's. Either way the power gains would be better. Oh yeah, I know a guy that does the adapter plates too!!

Nice pics. Looks like a lot of fun.

That was the only pic I could find of the EA81 wagon. Try doing a search on google or Yahoo to find more pics. I searched for subaru touring wagon.

Is it this body style... or this one? The reason I ask is that depending on what country of origin is the body year was one or the other.

As far as a direct bolt up, Zero! Now, people have relocated the control arm mounting point and used EA82 front suspension/brake parts on EA81's. You get slightly bigger front brake rotors and caliper area is slightly larger as well.

How do you have the return routed? 14mpg is low. I average 20+ with all of mine. Do you have any pics of the engine compartment or the set up?

No problem Garner, I can appreciate hard work but just not my thing. Yeah, you don't want to go there!

If it's in a Legacy it is a VLSD.

What is the rear diff out of? Is it a LSD or VLSD?

If there is still material on the clutches you can flip the conical washers. It provides way more holding power.

I used a drill stop that fit into the lug hole perfectly. Marked the holes and drilled away. Make sure you use a new bit and use cutting oil so that the holes will stay tight. Otherwise, the studs will be loose.

I'll anticipate my pink slip after that excellent vote of confidence. But seriously. Just being on a forum for a long time does not make me infallable(sp). It's a good thing to question things just do be pissy about it when you do. That's how things progess. If we always excepted things we wouldn't have lifted 'roos and EJ conversions and even lowered Brats.(no offense but that one still makes me shudder) I hope to learn one new thing everyday. It helps keep you honest.

The clutch discs should be the same thickness. As noted the splines are different. The pressure plates are the same diameter but not the same depth. You can have you EA81 flywheel cut to EA82 specs and run an EA82 pressure plate with an EA81 disc. The only problem is going to be the throw out bearing. I am not 100% sure if you can use the EA81 TO with the EA82 PP. Your 4sp works well but having a 5sp behind it is SO much better and not that big of a deal to install.

Yes, 5sp D/R with lightened EA82 flywheel. XT6 clutch kit. I don't think I have ever smoked this clutch with a full season of RallyX + daily driver duties to boot. To address your problem. The more I think about it it does sound like a pressure plate issue. It holds good at launch but fails/slips at high speed only. Possibly weak springs or fingers. Do you have a return spring on your release fork?

For the record. I don't get offended over this stuff. I built this motor to aviation spec for the 150hp version. After talking with various engine builders and cam builders and going over the specs they decided I should easily be able to pull these numbers considering that my fuel system is bigger and my exhaust is better. I never stated whp BTW. The one thing I see overlooked here more than anything on mods is that people try to do one mod at a time. However, to get a correct mod you have to do them in a series of upgrades. For example, it does no good to add a bigger cam without a bigger fuel supply. Or stuffing big cams and more fuel without allowing for bigger exhaust to allow it to breathe. One will not work without the others. :-\ You believe what your breathing is air don't you? Ever see it?

I am not a common Subaru nut. BTW, I have covered this many times. Whether you believe or not is up to you. Let's just say that a friend of mine owns a 400hp WRX and was very impressed with my Brat. As I have already told many people who have been nice enough to let me know there are non-believers and naysayers. I am doing a readers rides article and you can see it then. Who knows, I might even find a dyno by then to back it up. A little history for the skeptical. I have been around racing, hot rods and high horsepower motors since I was born. There are lots of ways to extract power without losing reliability. Does seem funny though that most believe Wills claims to over 200hp in his wagon but question my numbers. Not really any difference when you think about it. He started with 113-115hp depending on the info you have. I started out with 73hp. Oh well, all have their own opinions as it should be. See ya'

Sounds like you're doing Ok Pat. A sense of humor is a good thing on endeavours like this. Missed all of the last hints. Bummer, but I didn't have a map to check either. Going off of memory. Oh wait, that isn't a good idea sometimes. Anyway, keep it safe and see you when you get back.