FerGloyale

it may an issue in your market. I just last week purchased an Aisin Water pump/timing belt kit and all pieces were Japanese OE. Paper waterpump gasket is a sure sign of junk though.

you'd have to leave all the power supply and relays that are controlled as well. Best bet is like chux said, just grab the trigger wire from the EJ ECU and run it to the EA fan wire switch......or setup your own relay.

I dry install but I'm in western Oregon were we don't have corrosion concerns.

no that will break the tabs of the plastic insert, if they aren't already broken. they aren't available anymore. So try to save the one you've got. What needs to be done to properly set it in place is unbolt the 2 fasteners holding down the plate to the top of the shifter. THEN insert the shifter through the hole in the plate, and then into the plastic. Once seated, secure the plate back down to the shifter (2 12mm nuts from underneath) The plate is supposed to hold the plastic insert tabs form expanding and letting the shifter pop out.

Now that's more like it!

So pop them out and use ones from current trans.....what's the big deal. Same with the selectro switch. No reason to be weary of a trans that sat outside, as long as it was seald. Drain the oil from it, see if it looks clear or like strawberry quick. Clear fluid......should be fine. As good as a trans that sat in a car int eh yard for the same # of years.

Find a socket that fits tight inside the dowel. Then you can grab it tight with vice grips and wiggle it out.

Car is up and running well. Owner is taking it on a 100 mile drive today. Moral of the story.....Fully clear ALL oil passages in the block of ANY old oil before startup of reassembled engine. In this case, I left the "block prep" part of the process up to the owner, and he may not have cleared out the inside of the crankcase well after cleaning the block. IDK.....Probably wont' ever fully know. But for now, everything seems OK to go.

You need more lift, more trimming, or less tire. Those back wheels especially are going to stuff against the lip of the wheel well and act like putting the brakes on the first time you get on some real rough terrain.

Holes in the XT6 mounts will be too large for the 4cy XT arms. He needs parts from a 4cyl something. Wagon, Sedan, or 3 door, or another XT

From inside, behind the panel you have to squeeze the little tabs and the clips will pop out. Then you insert them into the trim, and then pop the whole deal back on. No way to reinstall that without taking clips out or getting new ones.

You've got DOHC head bolts from an EJ20g or EJ25D. I made this mistake once years ago and it's excactly what happens. Since the DOHC bolts are deeper in the heads, under the camshafts basically, they are too short and only engage about 4or 5 threads instead nearly 20. when used in the SOHC engines. I will bet money on it. Proper length head bolts won't strip that easily. Unless maybe your Torque Wrench is WAAAY of calibration and you really put 100 lbs on it. Now, you've got 2 striped holes though........And if it indeed is a result of too short bolts, you've still got a good amount of useable threads deeper in the holes.....not enough for the stock bolts. They would only catch the threads on the very tip.......but, tell you what........7/16th fine thread all thread is so close to M11 that the threads match for about 2" Cut the 7/16th fine thread (high grade) to length of the entire hole int the block +thickness of head+ an extra 1~1-1/2" and use nuts. Viola! redneck head studs. If you drive those studs ALL the way to the bottom of the striped holes, they will hold. My 2.2 in my wheeler is running this setup. Been great for 5 years, probably 25k~35k miles so far.

yup. pry out, push in.

Glad someones enjoying it.

Not yet. Didn't get to the pressure test(leak down) yet to confirm valves are OK. I think they are, but I'm gonna check. in the morning, and plasti-gauge the Cam/journal before final assembly. I did decide to give to GD's advice a little, and pull the oil pan and inspect a more closely the pick up tube. Again, I did not find any signs of crack, deterioration of brazing, or any signs of clogging. When I unbolted the tube from the block, a large burble of oil dropped oit the bottom, as if a thumb had been lifted off the top of the straw......soooooo.......I think it was sealed and sucking well. Glad I took the pan off, because even after pumping out oil through, and then draining the rest through the drain plug, when it came off, there was about 8~10 oz of "new" looking oil, but totally darkened and swirling with silty, gritty crud. So good to get that all out of there. In retrospect, maybe I could have done more to blast out ALLLL of the residual oil in the engine galleries. I usually don't, I just cap all open oil ports during work, and fill with new oil on assembly. 15 years, never had a problem on startup like this. I do not think this customer will be buying a KillerBee oil pickup any time soon.......$185 dollars? He said no thanks. Literally millions of the stock EJ pickup tubes driving around just fine with no problems. New OEM is only about $30.....so.....might be worth the peace of mind, but I do not think the pickup tube was at all involved with the Cam skip/seize issue. It was good to check though. I feel like plenty of shops would have just reset the Cam, fired it up again without even checking journals, oil pan, etc.....Might have run long enough second time to get down the road and get the shop paid.........not my way of doing it......I wanted to investigate every possibility before even trying to fire it again.

pickup tube went intot eh washer and came out clean. Zero extra time used as opposed to new. Anyhow. The issue was a galled journal, receiving too little, or too dirty oil. Fed parallel to the screened banjo for AVCS, so that's not the problem. 2nd journal. Weird thing is, 3rd journal, which is further down the line, was fine and beautiful and poured clean oil out when cam removed. And the AVCS solenoid, and the ports it supplied had clean good oil in them too. I am thinking the machine shop did not do a good job of cleaning out the journals after washer. Dried up old soapy oil chunk sitting right there in that 2nd journal hole. Anyhow. Polishing the galled Cam. Light emery cloth on the carrier and head journals. I will check clearance with plastigauge before final assembly. Was still freewheeling not fully seize so should be OK. I pulled banjos on the turbo and hte pass side AVCS, set all cams to closed, pulled spark plugs, and cranked engine 20 secs. at a time until all oil pumped out cam journals, and AVCS/turbo banjos. Pumped the entrie contents of the oil pan out and all looked super clean by the end. Compression test later will tell if valves are bent, but I don't think so......Clearance was right on i.e. no "low" valves. ****note**** This engine was the very first time using "lucas" engine assembly lube, green greasy sticky stuff in a bottle.. Usually use the more traditional black "sta-lube" stuff from a tube. Can't say it's the problem, but never had this issue before, and the lube didn't create the dirty crap in journal 2, so it can't be the whole issue. But I have never, in 16 years of building engines had this happen to a Cam. It's goin in the trash. Or maybe in my wheeler gearbox....can't hurt in there.

This. See my thread in the offroad forum. Ran into interference using EJ (93 Imp FWD 5spd) With 6" crossmemeber and 8" equivalent strut top lift (2" over factory geometry) on an EA82 front cross (car is EA81, but swapped along time ago. Worse if you didn't widen you'r track (EJ track is 1-1/4" wider) I had to modify inner cup to accommodate the angle.

Yeah, forged was discussed. Stock pistons looked great......no scratching or scoring. Oil rings coked up but drain holes were open still. Pickup tube is the "new" design without the stupid clamp in the middle. It's a one piece with it's support leg near the bottom. Got cleaned spotless and shiny in the hot tank, examined for cracks, none found. As for the Cam. It was 2 teeth.....all 3 other cams were timed perfect tot eh crank still. So the intake valves opened later than they should. Normally they open right as piston begins to go down for the "intake" stroke. 2 teeth late would mean it wouldn't open them until the piston was further down, but I think they will then be closed again before the piston is on it's way up again. So I don't expect piston to Valve contact. Now valve to valve with an open Exhaust valve? We will have to see. I hate turbo cars.

It does. It was in place, but not interfering. I put a thin sheet of cardboard between it and the belt before I tighten it's bolts, so I can be sure there is space between it and the belt. And because it's a DOHC turbo motor, it has guides over both pass side and the drivers exhaust cams. It doesn't have a guide over the drivers side intake cam.....but it has the extra small roller by the tensioner. Something must have caused the Cam to resist the rotation, and skip. It didn't just randomly jump 2 teeth for no reason 30 secs after startup at idle.

Well....I'm hoping 2 teeth won't have bent valves, but WHY did the cam skip? What caused the Cam to drag and what was that clunk, terrible sound, just before it stopped? It was all brand new, Mitsuboshi belt, NTN tensioner, all new rollers, Waterpump, etc.......All Brand new OEM parts. I'm hoping the cam isn't snapped. It is one of those fully hollow Cams. We cranked engine 3 times for 20 secs a piece with no Crank sensor to prime oil pumpbefore firing it up.......Oil light went off so there was pressure from the pump, but wondering if the oiling to the head has some issue.

90's EJ22 are the easiest, and most durable engine choice. 130~135 HP, so plenty to move a GL around but not so much munch the rest of the drivetrain. You don't need to get an AWD trans if you get an adapter plate and redrilled flywheel. Much easier actually than a full AWD swap where you have to make new shifter linkage and driveline and get turbo (25 spine) axles.......it's doable if you want.......good combo for lots of road driving with just some light snow/trails. But for ease of swap, and best full off-road capability, keep your D/R 5- spd.

Background. 08 WRX, 89K miles. A few upgrades (GS intercooler, Perrin silicon intake tubes, bell-mount down-pipe, tuned, ) but basically a stock engine. It was burning oil, smoking, so we pulled the heads to do rings and a HG job. Engine looked good inside. New oil pan, resealed oil pump with Subaru O-ring. New Timing components went on with the reassembly. Started up........ran smooth for 20~30 secs..............then bad, sudden sound and engine stopped. Sounded like a bad sound from drivers side. Pull timing covers....Drivers side Intake cam skipped 2 teeth behind all the rest...........Engine turns free, all Cams turn freely with belt off. When rotating the Drivers intake cam I can feel the valves resistance at 2 different points of rotation, like normal. Not sure what I'm gonna find inside when I pull valve cover, but I'm taking guesses. Thoughts? I'm not gonna sleep tonight I know it.

He wasn't quoted for OEM, just "OE ceramic", which basically means nothing. And since it was at shop that said the dealer would be $1900, O assumed it wasn't a Subaru specific shop and probably not using actual Subaru OEM. So I was basing pricing on World Pac/IMC high quality options.

Get a toyota truck. Done.

Subaru's do not have an Ammeter or "amp gauge" They have a voltage gauge. If it is dropping to zero it's probably faulty. But if the "charge" light is coming on that may be a sign the Alternator is failing.