FerGloyale

I sure hope they put a real "truck" engine in it. Like the 3.6 or even the Turbo diesel. If it's got the 2.4 turbo gasser that the ascent has, it will be worthless for towing, and not reliable as a "workhorse". Unless it's diesel, or being driven regularly over 8000 ft alt., there is no good reason to have a turbo. Just a good way to make a good engine die sooner.

Broken timing belt. BTW, the valve cover does not need to come off to remove the CAM sensor. but I can almost garanty you it's not the Cam sensor. better bet if you are gonna keep looking into it is to pull the drivers side timing cover. and reveal the broken belt.

it will fit. But there is no need. Solid adjusters in that EJ18 I believe. EJ18 is a tough rump roast motor. That crank won't even be touched by the 115 hp or so it makes.

If he had swapped all the original intake parts onto it that would have been fine. Nothing wrong with making an engine swap. It just needs to be done the right way.

There are DOZENS of clutch companies. None of them are "people" And I have seen many cheapo, weird looking TO bearings in Chinese kits. I never said anything about Sachs. Nobody has. Nobody mentioned a price either. What's yer point? YOU were the one who said you had to return a Sachs kit. So what is your point in saying they aren't garbage? I don't get it. Anyhow, the OP said a clutch set for a 97 legacy. The first pic of the "old" bearing looked to be one of the odd cheap Chinese bearings I've seen. Now, the OP has disclosed his trans is from a WRX, which would be a pull type. I'm not sure how that's working with a push type hydraulic unit the Legacy would have. But clearly, he is talking about a pull style clutch. To the OP, you will need to return that Legacy clutch and get one for a pull type WRX 02-07 IIRC.

it Doesn't make sense that the mechanic would have swapped wiring from the original intake onto the used replacement one. Unless he was wholly unfamiliar with the main, large engine wiring connectors. and removed all wiring from intake one sesnor/solenoid at a time. I am going to say that the problem is with a sensor or solenoid on the manifold, or a problem with the wiring connecting to it. The reason it doesn't make sense is why would he use the JY intake, but take the time to swap the wiring from one to the other? More work for no gain. The intake has to be removed to swap the wires so why not just drop the original intake complete onto the replacement engine? What you are experiencing is exactly why you should never trust the intake/wiring/sensors from a Junkyard engine. Most of the times the warranty terms specify that only the longblock is covered. All of the other items a left on for "connivence" for the wrecker. Lots of times I get engines with minor damage to intake/wiring/accessory brackets etc. Doesn't matter cause you are supposed to use all of the stuff Original to the car and only swap longblocks at any rate test fuel pressure with a t fitting at the fuel filter.

This is what a good factory TO looks like. Whatever that thing up top is it's aftermarket garbage. You don't need to find a new bearing.

I thought the earlier systems used the reset button for programming, not the 10-times on key thing.

Did the mechanic retain the original Intake manifold? Or did he just drop an entire replacement in with a J-yard intake? Possible year model wiring difference if so? Also, This model is notorious for the fuel pump unit's "surge" compartment's metal cap and o-ring leaking, causing low fuel pressure/volume and causing hard starts, and weird running performance. Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Watch for bleed down at shut off. Pull the pump unit from tank by lifting rear seat and pulling up the rubber mat and opening the access panel underneath.

Are you saying you can't buy the valves to replace in the heads? And if so, couldn't one simply bolt on a set of SOHC 2.2 or 2.5 USDM heads? Use the WRX 2.0 gaskets?

Install just the upper smooth, and lower cogged rollers. Leave the compressed, pinned, tensioner off. Leave the lower smooth roller off. Set the belt on lined up proper, then install the tensioner while holding belt in place. Then push the lower roller up into place and bolt it in. Double check the marks before and then again after pulling the pin on the tensioner.

You need EA82 3.9 5 spd D/R from 85-89 GL and a 3.9 rear diff. Flywheel for 4wd EA82 redrilled for EJ Adapter plate Custom trans rear crossmember (or modify stock) Longer driveline (center section) Lengthened shifter or modified E82 shifter and D/R lever Front axles for 93/94 FWD MT impreza will work.

4EAT can lock rear transfer hydraulically, has 4.44 final through torque converter so effectively same crawl as 3.9 lo range 4spd in brat. With larger tires, more clearance. VLSD rear diff and stronger axles. The jump seats are not safe, let alone legal. They didn't have seatbelt for a start. And the "oh SH$#" handles are more like "Oh SH$#, this thing just stabbed me in the spleen!" So I won't be putting my wife and infant kids in them any time soon. Plus if you put a bench seat in the back of the Baja you can seat 5 not 4. Nice Brats go for more than used Bajas in my area. You could not buy 3 or 4 of them. Maybe 2 piles of rusted parts or 1 fairly nice brat. I'm not at all knocking Brats. I love them. They are just not even comparable to a Baja. It's like comparing apples and bigger, safer, faster, more capable apples.

I've sold all my Brats because I have a family. Can't take kids and Wife anywhere. Pretty sure Subaru did marketing/demographics research that showed that Baja should be 4 door to appeal to the people who could actually buy one new when introduced. I would love to have Baja. Brat's are a collectible novelty now. Totally impractical as a daily driver. Baja is an actual car you could own and drive everyday with a family.

I've seen people install the gasket backwards. Results in exactly what you are describing. Make double sure. If you did this, the gasket edge with the hole i it will be poking out the bottom of the head/block seem. If that's not it, then you've got some foreign debris or sealant blocking the passage.

It's important when upshifting to the next gear too. Some people like to feel the "pull" all the way through the shift, so they are already on throttle as they let the clutch out, and they just let the sucker slip until the car catches up the RPMs. Automatics can do this, in a sense, because the hydraulics can transfer the force from one valve to the next in a buffered fashion (via accumulators) But for a Dry clutch Manual, it's just friction material and if you slip it, it won't last long. I learned from test driving heavy dump trucks and Semis that if you throttle through the shift, you will smoke that trucks clutch in moments. Heck If you stab the throttle uphill already in gear and moving, but in too high a gear, you'll smoke it. So you have to be almost fully off throttle (just enough to keep RPMs where they need to be at the next gear) while shifting and until the clutch is completely released. once you are fully engaged with the next gear, then you hit the throttle. So there is a moment of "coasting" in neutral while you are moving the stick, and until you release the clutch. Not the fastest way to drive but the best for the clutch.

I work on subarus all day, every day. Every 2.5 that hasn't had very recent headgaskets has at least some oil seeping at the corners of the heads. ALL of them. EJ25 engines of all years can have full Head gasket failure. Not every engine, but a significant amount of all years. The reason the OP is seeing higher prices for the more common, smaller 2.5 is that there is a much higher demand for replacements for the 2.5. Along with HG issues, timing belt breakage takes out a good amount of EJ25 also. That doesn't really happen with the timing chain driven EZ30. The 3.0 doesn't have as many failures. And there were only about one made for every twenty EJ25. There just is a much smaller group of people out there looking for replacements for the 3.0.

your brother needs to stop slipping the clutch. Very little throttle should be applied until the shift has been made, and the clutch fully released. Before that while starting and while shifting you should need no more than 10~20% throttle to start rolling/match RPMs for next gear.

very similar. 2.2 with manual trans is a great combo. Automatic seatbelts are annoying though.

The 2.5 engine is not rare. Many more 2.5 equipped cars were made and sold than 3.0 or 3.6 cars. The 2.5 came in every model, Legacy, Forester, Impreza, and Outback. 3.0 and 3.6 only came in high end Outbacks. So there is a much higher demand for replacements for those many more cars. Especially since they are LESS reliable than the 3.0 and 3.6 The EJ25, is temperamental at best. Lots of Head gasket problems. Some cars seem OK, but still many many failures by 150k miles in ALL years. I think some of Subarus head milling machines had some slop in the mill head. Causing tool deflection and a "low" in the far lower corner of the head as the tool passes through. Plus they have a T-belt needing service and if not it breaks and mostly wrecks the engine. So again more need for replacement. Not much market for the 3.0/3.6 as there were not that many sold by comparison. And they are such a good engine they have far fewer failures so much less demand for them on the market. Fully parallel cooling system and timing chain make them very reliable to 250K+ miles. Also, by 2009 the USDM sixes were all 3.6 liter. Maybe the JDM stayed with 3.0. Either that or they are quoting price on pre 2006 3.0 engines.

The Emulsion tubes are clogged. Pull the cap off the carb. Unscrew the 4 brass emulsion tubes and blow them out with carb cleaner and compressed air. Might also be good to pull the bowl drains, and access the jets through the holes, and clear those out too although they never really clog the way the emulsion tubes do.

Yes will bolt to EJ22 with adapter. Came out of Carbed EA82, 85-87 Subaru GL. Non-turbo.. Year/model range determined by the fact it has no Nuetral switch, and the LO switch is not on the rear of the case and those are 23 spline stubs Be careful not ot let that 4wd selector lever rotate in it's bore. That can crack the pot metal shifting fork in there. The interlock pellets do not like to be compressed when that rod rotates. Might want to pull that rear cover off the top and inspect just to make sure it's OK still.

It will throw a code for Catalyst Efficiency.

Yup. Exact same thing happened to my wifes 03 H6. I was able to put a tiny tack weld on the crack, and fit it back onto the canister with a new o-ring. Sili-glide grease for lube helps alot. I've never been able to find a source for the metal cap seperate from the whole unit.

Green pair = D-CHeck........a self diagnostic of sorts. Cycles fuel pump relay and tests readiness of the systm White pair = Read mode......Outputs stored codes The other big conenctors are for subaru SSM computer and a line end test port for the harness when it went in the car. Keep the pairs unhooked for regular driving. Plug BOTH sets together and run engine for 30 sec until CEL flashes to clear old codes.