calebz

You can probably get the parts you need from someone local to you. If not, the PAP on 112th and south tacoma way used to have lots of EA82 stuff. As far as the wiring and stuff goes, 87+ FI, turbo included were all the same so far as I have seen (all of mine have been) 87 has a different wiring plug, but that can be changed in 10 minutes or less with just a phillips screwdriver.. Couldn't hurt to grab the ignitor and bracket. Probably cheaper. Personally, I would probably just throw down with the cash and get that and the distributor at the same time. Along with a new cap and rotor since its all out anyway.

I went for a dynomax this time.. A little more money, but should last longer.. Plus it sounds good.

I had the exact same problem a couple years ago. Swapped distributors and the problem went away.. Took about 10 minutes.

Looks like you got your info. Only one additional note. You don't have to hook your car up to a machine to get codes. All the stuff is there to do it.. built in to the car. THere are even instructions here on how to do it. Might save you the cost of a pizza next time

I think Gary is right about the size. I used to have the same problem with the same bolt (I even have the same car) I found out that the bolt that was in there is just slightly too long and was bottoming out before it was truly tight. A small lock washer added to the equation and its been there for three years.. only coming out when I tell it to

If you are getting a 2psi pressure drop, you have a leak. Even a big 9000 IC shouldn't see more than 1/2 psi drop. To run stock 7psi/wastegate boost, simply run the wastegate signal line from the compressor housing of the turbo to the wastegate. If that doesn't net what you need, it is time to invest in a boost controller.

Just to reiterate..

I paid around $50 for mine after shipping and such. They haven't given me any problems. However, I rarely drive mine (not at all at the moment.. engine - BOOM!). I know Russ had some problems with his.. broken spring perch or something. But IIRC, it was an offroad/logging road type of incident. Mine never leaves the pavement anymore.

Mine ride a bit rough, but it isn't terrible. With the wrx wheels and tires, I can only go so low before tire rubbing becomes an issue. So not too low. Having the 20mm swaybars does help quite a bit, as springs in and of themselves can't negate body roll. If the car is strictly for pavement, and you're willing o trade ride for some handling and better looks, it is definitely worth it.

Jerry cans for the win! That trip was absolutely the best use of an old school soob I think I have seen here.

My nissan adapter came with a square plastic piece that allows it to mate to the flapper style as well.

Moving to new gen, as I assume thats what you have since none of the old gen cars came with anything like that. Have you tried the owners manual?

I did the tranny swap on my 87 turbowagon and there was no change in ECU needed

Autozone.. marked as a nissan part

It is:)

haha! Not bad. Gotta wonder how well those windshield wipers work though:-p

First off, Please allow me to apologize for the welcome shown by some of our members. Second, we do things a certain way around here and expect all members to abide by the way we do things. One of those things is making at least a little effort to post your things in the appropriate place. As a dealer, your place is the vendor forum, where people like me, that don't want to be sold stuff, can safely ignore you. Second, since you have only been at Teape a few days, you may be unaware of the checkered history they have with the local subaru community. If I see even an inkling of the behaviors teape is known for on some other message boards, or if I hear of you being involved in some of the crap the Teape dealerships have been involved with in the past (specifically your dealership), I will ban you and anyone else associate with you or them so fast your head will spin. Sorry for the slightly tainted welcome. You're new there, and new here. but the history of your dealership is known. Be nice and everything will be cool. Cliff Notes: Welcome. Be good. You're being watched.

The answer to the first question is no. The rest of your answers can be easily found here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php

It isn't so much that the turbo axles are stronger than the NA (though they are... a little), its that the spline count on the tranny side of the axles are different. Turbo manual and 4EAT - 25 spline Everything else - 23 spline.

Also, if you are changing from a 3AT, you won't need to change the axles

The hole in the flywheel is there. Thats how soob mechanics back in the day locked the motor in place. On mine, I used a trick I learned from moosens. I drilled a hole near the inspection hole at the top of the bellhousing. from there its a straight shot to drop a screwdriver (best if its one you don't really care about) into the hole. Works like a charm....except now I have to take off the intercooler to do it. second choice is the rope thing. Have done that before as well, it works.

To answer the OP's question, all EA82 hubs are the same

Just make sure that whatever you go with matches the ratio of the LSD

Not at all. It is not uncommon to see 200k + miles on the EA82 5 speeds. I have seen many of them outlast pretty much every other part on the car. Mine for example. It is 18 years old. The car it came from has ceased to exist(as a car anyway), but the tranny is still going strong. To the OP. I could be wrong about this, but the standard NA DR uses the same gearing throughout the EA82 model years. I know that on the EA81 4 speed DR, there is a slight difference between the early ones and the later ones, but again, I don't thinkn that applies to the EA82s

I have always wondered about this. Haven't people realized I could do the same thing sitting behind them in traffic? PS. The site is looking better