calebz

Just to add to that, I had that brat apart for a new axle and tie rod end less than a year ago and there was STILL no camber wear apparent. OTOH, my lowered soob still has positive camber.. It has always eaten tires.. I was hoping lowering it would help, but if it did, it wasn't much

The wastegate on the VF7 opens ~8psi

I'm considering the same thing. Should be pretty simple. Only drawback I see is the fact of the redundancy/safety factor of the V belts

Looks like it was rubbing on a body seam. Happens. Just be sure when you reinstall a new one that is its in the same place, a bit of padding goes a long way.

One question to help further diagnosis.. DO your front marker lights work?

Mine quit a couple years ago. It turned out to be the switch.. Since I was in the middle of a cross coutry trip, I wasn't really in a position to pull the steering wheel to replace the switch. What I ended up doing was finding a switched 12v source and tapping into it (In my case, there was an extra or 2 in the center console from my auto to 5 speed conversion). I then ran a wire from there and tapped it into the tail light circuit under the passenger side door sill..Total operation took about 45 minutes. It was supposed to be a temporary fix, but I drive around with my head lights and tail lights on all the time anyway.. so two years later, I haven't changed it:-p

You have a bit of crank walk.. Not terribly common from what I have seen on the EA motors, but it does happen.. I have an EA82T block in the garage that ran with some pretty massive crank walk for quite a while. I don't think the pulley holds thigs tight, so to speak. I think what can happen is if its not tight enough, it can cause a situation where things are off balance and vibrating, with the thrust surfaces taking the brunt of it. Thats my theory anyway:D

Good on ya for using the search engine. I love hearing that Welcome to the board. Turbowagons are a lot of fun. Now that you have it and like it, its time to start modding it.

The codes you are getting don't have anything to do with the transmission. The 4wd 5 speed transmissions don't interface with the computer at all.. All of the plugs on it are for things like reverse lights, 4wd and High/low lights. All of the part time D/R 4wd 5 speeds are pretty much the same from 85-89 (non RX), with the possibility of small gearing difference. so basically, there are three types. RX PT D/R - -85-86 RX FT4wd D/R 87-89 all the others Plugs may vary from year to year, but do not affect the way the car runs.

The EA82T is the most powerful of the EA series motors. TO upgrade you would have to go with an EJ series motor and that wouldn't bolt to your adapter plate. Power mods for the EA can be as simple as an intercooler and boost controller, or as complex as a larger turbo and engine managment. Look around the board here a bit to see what others are doing to boost the EA82T output. We have had some pretty decent successes.

Did the gen 1s have those.. neither of the gen 1 brats I have seen down here have had the decals.. Nice brat. I love the first gens the are so much sportier looking than subsequent models.

Even with megasquirt you have to have the mechanical ability to get the fuel into the combustion chamber. If the stock injectors won't do it, the only thing MS will do is lengthen the injector pulse.. That can make it harder to tune. MS with larger injectors and a variable injector pulse would be the right way to do it:D

It will just 'drop in' It just won't run that way Wiring is different, crossmember is different to deal with the fact that the exhaust is different

Personally, I wouldn't flush anything unless you are ready to do a complete reseal on your motor. Think abou it. Any detergent that dislodges crap from your motor will also dislodge any crap in the seals.. making more leaks.. Yay! Search the board for leaks and ticks. you'll find the most common ones, the consequences and cures. Valve cover gaskets are cheap and easy.. Unlikely to be your only or even main source of leaking.. also, unless your motor is absolutely pouring oil, its not going anywhere and your mechanic is full of crap, very likely trying to scare you into putting a bunch of cash in his pocket. Time for a new mechanic, or spend the $$ for a FSM and a small metric tool kit and learn to do it yourself www.1stsubaruparts.com Get your stuff there. even after shipping its oftwen cheaper than getting stuff locally or me.

Don't know about it fitting on the TWE downpipe I have a 2003 WRX downpipe and midpipe on my car now. The axleback doesn't fit.. the muffler is just too big. The downpipoe and mid pipe were not the easiest things in the world either.. Ended up having to heat and bend a little in a couple places. Right now I'm running with just that.. No muffler .. The midpipe ends right at the rear diff Its a little loud, but not nearly as loud as your average ricer fart can..Was rolling with a group of WRXs a few weeks ago and it wasn't as loud as most of those either.

Take it to a subaru dealership, they will confirm it for you. Unless the fords used the same up pipe/ DP combo though, thats definitely a subaru turbo

Different ECU and harness, Different heads, pistons and intake manifold as well as a different exhaust manifold and x-member.

I tore apart a turbo wagon from alaska a while back.. rusty stuff there. Took some persuasion with a 2 pound dead blow hammer, but they eventually came out.

Blown headgasket would be my guess/

GM trim tool -

Heh.. when I brought my motor down to the shop to install it, I got the long block, engine stand, 2 boxes of parts and the intake and exhaust manifolds into the trunk of my volvo with the lid closed and a little room to spare

I'm running 205/55/16 on my wagon. 16x7 Konigs There was a little bit of rubbing, but rolling the rear fender lips took care of that. Overall ride height is about 2 inches lower than stock. But thats due to my springs.. The outside diameter of my tires is about the same as the 185/80/14s I had on before. Oh yeah.. my offset is 40mm.. Styles runs 48. . Pugs are 20 IIRC and stock is closer to 50 (53 I think on the newer soobs)

WHat was it supposed to be from.. Thats definitely a Subaru turbo.. hard to tell eaxactly which one by the pic, but definitely an old school soob.

you could be off any number of ways in either direction doing it that way Follow Qman's advice and you'll hit it dead on every time

My apologies.. Posting so early in the morning isn't good for my brain. I assumed you had a 3AT in there currently, as its unusual to see a 4EAT before 1988