TomRhere

Okay, we "all" get together and pool our money. Shawn and or Mick does the bidding for us. Then after the legallities are abated. We have an USMB "super auction". I know, I know,,,,, you've had enough beer tonight Tom. But think of the possibilities here. Old cars in general, and Subaru's to boot. I mean, come on guys!!!!! THINK ABOUT IT!!!!!!!!!!

One other thing to check for on iffy lighting, is the fusable links. Lost the lighting on my '86, traced it to a corroded connection at the links. Wires looked good, but it had corroded off right at the terminal connection, under the box, for one wire. Wouldn't have found it, ifin I hadn't un-bolted the links box and flipped it over. These Sube's have some strange wiring gremlins. Since I've put the Weber on the '82, and used a different ignition hot feed for the choke, I have things working now, that didn't quite work right before hand. I dun't know. Just happened. One example is my washer pump. Couldn't get it to work no how. Figured I'd work on it over the winters body repair session. Now, it's working! All I've done is the Weber, and wiring change for it. Think I'm using the hot-wire for the idle shut off, for the choke feed, not sure. Not trying to hi-jack your post. Just wanting to throw out the strange things that can happen with the wiring.

Nice looking Gen-1 BRAT. Little rust, but still nice looking.

Yanked all of that crap out when I did the Weber conversion. Don't you just love how it cleans up the engine bay? Can actually see most all of the engine now. I be happy!!!

Actually, the power feed to the headlights is always there. Subaru controls the grounds for these circuits with the headlight switch. Ifin I remember correctly, the plugs are poled different between the single and dual headlight systems. That means that you need to move the wires in the connectors around. Been awhile since I've done this on any car, but it's doable.

Yep, what he said. May take a bit for all of the air to be purged out of the system. Keep an eye on the level for a few days after you do the bleed.

Miles: Was just going to email Jim about that myself. But seeing as your there, tell him. Dadeeo: I've seen this XT-4. It is a sweet looking car. Real shame Jim can't get a title for it. They're in the process of parting it out, but the shell will still be there, as they're not doing any sheetmetal removal that I know of. Jim's handle here on the board is 86subaru, send him an email, or a Private Message. Click on the members button at the top of the main page, this forum. You'll find him listed in there.

No hard feelings at all. Okay, maybe a little. It was mine:boohoo: :boohoo: :boohoo: :boohoo:

Had an AMC Eagle 4WD. Outer boot was gone on the DS front. Was driving home from work, turned a corner, and the wheels wouldn't straighten back up. WTF?!?!?!? Luckly, I wasn't going to fast, and was able to not go to far into the woods. Got to looking around as to the cause of the problem. Found a nice sized stone had wedged itself in the outer-joint. Real fun digging that out of there with no tools handy. New axle went in the next day.

Was just thinking that a Lazer Red scoop would look good sitting up there. Thinking of painting mine Blue, with the Lazer Red for the body of the Horizon and Targa Stripes. Then do some pin stripes in Silver and Gold in the Stripes. Buddy of mine can do wonders with an air brush.

PM box is still full up. Won't let me send you any more. Hit the delete buttom a couple of times.

Do believe that .050 over is as big as you can go on pistons. Someone stated that here on the board. Would tend to believe that if the sleeve spun in the bore during a re-bore, the machine shop operator was trying to make to much of a cut at one time. I've had sleeved engines re-bored before, with no problems. As to your tranny problem. One wonders if maybe your shifter would be more at fault than the tranny. These things tend to get sloppy shifters with higher mileage.

Gotta empty the mail box, it be full up

Damn, I likes the look of the paint. Kinda what I had in mind for my '82. Don't really know the name of the color, but had a '90 Chevy Cavalier that was Blue. Man, I just love that color. You going to cover that grille opening with a scoop?

http://catalog.thepartsbin.com/?year=1988&make=SU&imageField.x=26&imageField.y=16

You going to share any of those drugs you're on? JK

Oneway to check the tranny/front diff/rear diff: Pull your spark plugs, raise all the wheels of the ground, mark tires and body with chalk, tape, whatever, place tranny in gear lock the center diff, turn engine over by hand and check your alignment marks. All should lign back up, or atleast I'm thinking so.

I know the EA-81's are gear drive on the cam, but makes me wonder if it somehow hasn't jumped timing a tooth or two. Would account for the lack of power, and burning all of that oil. IE: intake valve not opening at right time, causing oil to be pulled past the rings. Or the cam lobes have rounded off, giving you the same results. But to have two lobes go at the same time would be way far fetched, as far as the odds go. If HG's are good, and valve seals are good, Turbo isn't leaking oil, PCV system isn't at fault, and the Modulator valve on the trans isn't at fault, the piston rings aren't at fault. Doesn't leave to much more to be at fault. Just some thoughts on it.

Yep. 2 bearings, 2 seals, each side of the vehicle. Same same, inner outer.

Welcome to the board. You are in the right place to find solutions to your problem(s). Many knowledgable people here. The more details you can give them, the easier it is for them to give good advice. Sorry I can't help you, I'm totally lost on Turboed engine systems. Never owned or worked on one. But I'm a looking.

When I did the ones in the '86, I used a press at work. 1st time doing that on a Subaru. When I did the ones in the '82, the first time, I used a press at work. When one of the seals went bad and ruined a bearing on the '82. I did it in the garage with a 10" long drift punch and whammer. Biggest problem using punch and hammer method, is keeping the dadburned knuckle from moving across the floor when you whack the punch. Although, using a press to do it isn't much easier, do to having to find the right pieces of metal spacers to hold the knuckle level. It be a pain. Personnal preferance now is to use the punch and hammer method. I got a chunk of aluminum round stock, slightly smaller than the OD of the bearing to tap it in with. Above all.... Don't be a dummy like me, and forget to put the spacer in between the bearings. Called myself all kinds of names over that one. Doesn't pay to get in a hurry!!!!

I'd be interestd in atleast two.

Just checked out the pics. Awesome!! Any idea if the Gen 1 master cylinder would fit a Gen 2? Disty is really tight to the MC in my '82. Guess I really should ask if the Gen 1's are a dual system or not. So are they?

Vicky; the rims were painted by the youngin I bought the BRAT from. He had the idea of painting it with a Black and Yellow theme. The rims were all he got done, took him over a year to do those. That's when his Step-Dad decided that the kid just wasn't that interested in it, and told him to sell it. Was bought by the S-D as a project vehicle for them. And yes, the rims will be re-painted. The Wife has decreed so. Miles; I was wanting another hood to do the hood scoop on. That way, ifin I mess it up, I ain't ruining my good hood on the '82. Yeah, ain't a bad pic of the '86, you can't see all of the rust in that shot. Kinda blends into the paint color and the shadows.

Sounds like a mean one. Guess I'll have to throw a turbo on mine, now. Definetly want to see pictures of it.