TomRhere

Look in the Members Section for Mountiangoatgruf, he's in Ca., and did a SPFI swap to his Hatch, got it thru Certification. Few different threads from him on here about it, so you'll have to do some reading.

Thanks !!!

Would the windshield from an '86 Sedan fit an '88 Wagon?

Changes in where/what is allowing air to flow from Heater-A/C system is vacuum controlled. On your '88 there's a vac line off the PS of the intake manifold that goes to a soup can sized White canister mounted to the PS strut tower. That is a vacuum resevoir. Check the hose going to it for any cracks/splits, as that is most likely the culprit. Could be something after the canister, but usually the hose from manifold is issue. Can of carb cleaner, lightly sprayed at vac lines and hoses, will tell where problem is. You will notice a change in engine RPM's when leak is found.

Whole lot of info in the "Off-Road" Forum.. Maybe you should do some reading there..........................

PM sent.

Probally no definet answer to it. Lot of "could be's". Casting defect from impurities in the aluminum that got thru inspection, someone may have had carb apart in the past and some debri got in there un-noticed by assembler, numerous possible other causes.

I, would remove it.

Also, Mayan calender didn't have "Leap Years" in it. We have gone way past the "so-called" End of Days.

Buy a Gate's 28466 hose. Has proper 90* bend and is correct ID for fittings, just need to trim it. Fits both EA81 and EA82 waterpump to heater lines.

I would go with the Redline kit, just cause it has everything needed for the most part. With the other one, you still need to source stuff.

Swapped on an EA82 SPFI EGR valve. No real reason to delete EGR, doesn't effect engine performance that much for regular driving. Now, if you're after "best ET" on the 1/4 mile track, it may help to loose it.

I have used a length of coathanger wire in a drill to clean out the EGR passages. You have to work slowly, and let it work it's way thru the carbon. Not to much pressure on it, it will bend all to heck..... Carb cleaner spray will help soften the crud some. Won't be able to run engine with EGR valve off, major vaccum leak..

2WD-4WD are different. Best bet is salvage yard or someone on here parting out a 4WD EA82.

That line off the EGR goes to the Anti-Afterburn Valve, (AAV), mounted on the DS strut tower. The short section of rubber hose, (nearest to EGR), has been a source of vac leak on a couple of mine. PITA to change out on the vehicle.

Well durn it! If I had known, I could've tried getting that plug loosened. Got driverbit sockets for my impact wrench, may have worked... Can't answer your question on needing that TVV (thermal vacuum valve) for your Hitachi carb. Shouldn't need it for the Weber either. Manifold is off an '86, my '85 doesn't have that TVV there. Been over 5 years since I had the '84 here. The '82 had an EA82 engine swapped into it when I got it, so no idea on that...

The strut tops should be moved inwards (compaired to stock position) when lift blocks are installed correctly. Front tires will be at odd angle if you didn't move the vehicle after setting it back down on it's tires.

That just irks me something fierce. Needed an adapter for a quick repair of an exhaust system. Me; Need an exhaust pipe adapter, 2-1/8 ID-2-1/8 OD. Clerk; What vehicle is this for? Me; I just need an adapter, it's not a vehicle specific part. Clerk; I can't look up parts if I don't know what vehicle that it fits. Me: It's an exhaust adapter, it fit's any damned vehicle what has an exhaust system. Just look in the exhaust section and you will see them. Clerk; I can't look up any parts unless I know what vehicle it's for. Me; Why,,, do you have a job here? And I left. Went to another parts store, said exact same line, got my part

Yeah, a ten year old car around here can look as bad as that pic of Tom's exhaust. Not talking just the exhaust, the frame, crossmember, PS lines, rockers, what have you in that pic. Our '07 Chevy HHR is starting to show rust. And it gets a good spraydown during the Winter months. Bought it with 29,000 June of '09. It now has 59,000 and hundreds of all over baths. Road salt sucks.............

Exhaust gasses want out, anyway, anywhere they can do so. Threads on that flare nut are a possible leak source. Take the nut back off and put a quarter in the spacer, install nut. If you remove the spacer, the EA81 Y-pipe won't fit back on properly, hits the crossmember. EA82 Y-pipe will fit correctly with no spacer on engine.

On my '82 BRAT, with feedback carb originally, there was a 4 wire connector on the harness that went to the carb. Going only from memory here, I recall 2 Light Blue wires in that connector that were "Key ON Hot". I used one of those for the choke power feed on the Weber.

EA82 crossmember is wider than the EA81 where they bolt to the framerails. Member on here modified one to fit his EA81, so it can be done. Another Member swapped one into his BRAT, but I don't recall who that was. One could also modify the liftblocks for a lifted rig to accomodate the width differences. Which I beleive is how the other one was done. You would have to swap in the lower control arms, (and I believe the radius arms) as they are different in shape and length EA81 vs EA82. Strut top position would have to be moved outwards to correct for the longer EA82 lower arms, or cut/reweld lower arms.

I shall leave it as it is then. Well,,, after getting the man/head bolts out. I have your addy, I'll get it boxed and shipped tomorrow. Pay me later, I trust you. edit; Ok, bolts out!! Much corrosion in holes, cleaned them out and sprayed some PB Blaster on everything. All bagged up now. Included a good SPFI type EA82 EGR valve for when you do the Weber swap, you will want it.

That, and got to watch for good clearence above the airhorn too. Get it to close, and it would be like running with the choke closed/partially closed.

Good to hear all the bolts came loose. Rust penetrant will help in getting the last one freed. Working on that with the replacement manifold for you. All 3 bolts on DS are refusing to come out of the manifold. Shouldn't have left them in there.... Got them soaking with some Yield, They turn, but are refusing to slide out. How much stuff do you want me to remove from the manifold? Like all of the steel vac lines you won't need with Weber, and such. I have the T-stat removed, carb off, and a few other items. Everything else is soaking in some Yield. Manifold is off the Brown '86 BRAT which last ran 7-8 years ago.