Petersubaru

whatever seats you choose...make sure that the side seat belt fasteners come with it...I installed leather seats from 2002 legacy into a 2001 outback and had to exchange those fasters on the seat to be able to "click the belt up"...the "seat" is certainly very personal...I like the leather 2002 seats, but not the cloth style and I don't like the new forester seats, although the rest of the car I like very much

Is there any other place this "brown" stuff can be lurking around in...maybe inside the rad??...I still fail to understand why this Brown gunk was so heavily accumulated in the reservior tank, especially when the coolant was from subaru and changed out slightly more often then recommended

Just wondering as to what may be that "brown stuff" sitting at the bottom of the overflow tank..the previous owner had the coolant changed at 30k mi at the subi dealer and I don't know if at this time the over flow tank was cleaned ... and even though the car has 80k mi on it now...the coolant has been changed twice since then but also without cleaning the over flow tank...(this time the tank has been scrubed out)

if you haven't already read...a very informative article on the headgasket problem can be found at http://www.allwheeldriveauto.com ..scroll down and look on the left side for "headgasket problem explained"....also another article about some experiments with after market type of gasket plus another bunch of subjects and his blog

just wondering why for example "silicates" or "nitrates" are not included in the MSDS info of some coolants...for example, Zerex has the (older style) green coolant and written on the bottle it states "low silicate formula"..but no mention of silicate in the MSDS...also in the G-05 formula (HOAT) Nitrates have been added..but once again no mention in the MSDS..same goes for the Extended Fina brand..only 2 glycol items listed in the MSDS ..but in there own separate description, mention that some silicate has been added... in all examples no proprietary ingredients are included

94psi for the 2.2L...133psi for the 2.5L...taken from Mitchell online

quality is more important then getting confused with the so called specialty oils out there...especially for an older car such as yours...you wouldn't go wrong useing.. (google) " Castrol Import Multi Vehicle ATF "...japanese automotive society approved...can be bought from almost any parts store

My old 1986 1.8L with 210K miles has 155-160 psi across the board..mostly highway driven

a great tire the michelin x..but haven't seem them for some time now (in my opinion the best all round tire)...I also have the mich. hyd edge..very good long wearing and excellent handling in almost all weather conditions, ..but since it is not a snow tire, the braking abilities in snowy conditions in my experience is very poor..with the Assurance TT tires a little more agressive then the mich hydro... tirerack gives good results for the Assur.TT tire

I don't have all the info available for posting because I don't know how to tranfer the info without a lot of typeing...But some basic Subi info can be had by "googleing" 0W/20 Subaru Brand Oil...next "click" on the 3rd article down from the top of the page "Company Search Results"...next, scroll down to "Fuji Heavy In..." and click on that..then on the next page "click" onto the API and/or Starburst circle for further info...

For those that read my earlier query concerning the "endrench" (confusion) article 10W/20 motor oil recommendation, ...this has been updated since that article to 0W/20...in fact, Subaru "branded" oil is 0W/20 or 5W/30 (both starburst approved) or 10W/50

Redline gear oil "MTL"..70/80-85..a little thinner then the 75/90 ...the MTL is what I use in my old jetta in cold weather temps..any thicker and it won't shift...in my 86 subi I use the ford "mercon" ATF mixed together with 1qt syn.5/30 oil..this mixture works out well for me and shifts near like new, if fact better then when I first got it (a bit crunchy when new)..

several yrs ago on a long trip the temp gauge went also for me to the red line before opening up...no matter what I did as to try to remove the air...even with the front up on jacks, the air pocket was there ...later I found out that it was caused by a plugged heater core..when the core was changed out..all was fine

rockauto.com will often include subaru part #s

I had to change the oil seal on the front of the oil pump..cured it immediately...look for an oil leak just under the pump ...you may have to clean that area first around the timing belt covers before determining if in fact it is leaking from there...could also be the "O"ring oil passage on the head..would involve head removal..hopefully not

I believe you did not mention if the new therm. has a "jiggler" on it..if Not..that would be your problem providing everything else is working OK

..as a reminder..I am only trying to understand why the endwrench article contained the statement .."for severe..10W-20 motor oil recom."

..I don't know how to send links..but I have "re-written" my orginal post to make it hopefully easier to get too..or go to... endwrench 2006 issue..look up fluid maintenance..go with the flow

I googled "endwrench automatic transmission fluid" ...then when you get to the google page ...2nd from the top..."todays cars and trucks are highly technical marvels"...which leads to tranny,coolant etc. and motor oil recommendations like 5/30..but under severe/hot service..the rec. oil is 10w/30..or.."10w20"..I have never heard of a 10W20 except when used in racing..does anyone have any other info as to why this thinner oil is recommended

I went to a thinner oil then what you described above and experienced a reduction in noise..I have also tried the thicker syn. oils.. ( I believe it is not just my imagination speaking here)

..I just had this happen on my '86..burnt relay..only the 2nd time to happen over many years of driving a subi

..I only hope the BEST in your endeavor

NO locktite of any kind..even if that screw is loose..it is suppose to be that way...the pro carb builders use a "carb dyno" to set the carb up..but this "setting up" is for a new motor...so when you get, for example, the carb back from the re-builders,.. further fine tuning adjustments can be done if needed...perferably with an air/fuel analyzer..I don't know your car or cylinder compression..but generally speaking, the older the car is, ...some adjust will have to be made even out of the box..the rebuilt carb I bought from "tomco" specificly states this

looks real nice..would you know how far the rim will sit further out when comparing to a stock wheel

#3 involves some specalized tools for drilling..taping..a new seat for the air mixture screw and spring that will have to be gotten from somewhere..even professional carb rebuilders have a near impossible time to get these carbs to work ..and then of course the float has to be checked and adjusted..no room for error here