Legacy777

Actually, the MAF vs MAP thing does matter. If you have a MAF sensor, you'd have to put some silicone hose between the intake and MAF sensor, and then get a bracket for the other side of the MAF sensor to allow the filter to slide on. If it's a MAP sensor, you don't have to worry about any of that. Just an FYI, those style of open intakes can take away low & mid range torque, as well as cause MAF failures, if you have a MAF. I ran with one of those open style filters for several years, and had a MAF die on me. Personally....your best bet is to remove the snorkle from the fender. It allows the engine to breathe better, but doesn't kill low or mid range torque.

I'd recommend reading some of the posts in the normally aspirated forum on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Clear the codes, drive the car and see what codes come back. The Canister purge solenoids going bad are typical, and typically aren't a huge issue. They can cause idle issues some times. The coolant temp sensor. Even if the sensor measures ok, they can be bad. For less then $20, I always recommend replacing them if they are in question of being bad.

Nice

Is your 2003 MAF sensor based? I'd ask the guy if his intakes are meant for MAF or MAP based engines. I know on the imprezas they swapped between MAP & MAF sensors occasionally. If the sensors are the same, I don't see why it shouldn't work.

You'll need a wiring diagram for your current lights. Subaru uses a switched ground setup. The projector lights should be able to be wired similarly. You'll just have to utilize the same ground lead for both the projector and high beams. If this sounds a little out there, I'd recommend taking it to a shop or someone that has some more electrical experience. Just to throw it out there. The JDM lights have the wrong beam pattern and will blind on-coming traffic. Since they drive on the the left side of the road the cut is on the right side, and the flare to illuminate road signs is on the left.

Typically clutchpacks go due to not changing the fluid regularly. Dirt and other junk build up on them. I suppose you could remove them, sand them down, and put them back in, but for the effort of removing everything....put new clutch plates in. Try driving in some gravel, or stomp on it when it's wet. After driving a FWD for 8 years I can tell you, in those cirmstances you will peel out if it's only FWD.

Before you replace the switch, have you checked to see whether it's getting signal, or if the solenoid is just sticking....which you could try cleaning and spraying lubricant on it.

I tried the ball joint and it wouldn't budge....that's why I used the method I mentioned. I just replaced the ball joints....so if I should have to get the axles out, I can probably use the ball joint method.

usually the rear catalytic converter is connected to the mid pipe. So you should only need one gasket. It is a doughnut graphite gasket. They typically are reusable....or at least I've had decent luck with reusing them.

Has the system's refrigerent charge been checked to make sure it's not over or under charged?

You could try spring spacers/helpers. I wouldn't leave them in permanently, but for a quick trip they shouldn't hurt

It's pretty straight forward. Loosen the axle nut with the car still on the ground. Don't remove it, you don't want to put weight on the bearing with that removed. Jack up the car, loosen the sway bar end links from the front A-arm, loosen the front bolt that holds the A-arm to the front crossmember. This should give you enough room to remove the axle. Remove the spring pin from the axle. Make sure to drive the spring pin out the chamfered end. ie, put the punch in the non-chamfered end. Drive it back in the chamfered end. Once the spring pin is out, just wiggle the axle out, and put the new one in.

What procedure are you doing to check the atf level? Is the car running, did you cycle the gear selector?

The switch is down by the shifter under the plastic trim.

Do you have a wiring diagram. Look at all the fuses after the link. Add them up. That should give you a rough idea of how much amperage it's rated for.

I know for the legacies those axle nuts need to be torqued to around 100 ft/lbs. I don't have much experience with justy's. I suppose if the wheel bearing is shot, that could cause the problem....that or not torquing things properly.

That sounds fairly normal.

Without an additional piggy back computer, you can't tune it. The delay you're talking about, do you think it's due to bogging, or is it a delay in the electronic throttle?

I know this is late, but you may want to check out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

You're correct. If inserting the fuse remedies the torque bind. The problem is with the clutch packs. If inserting the fuse doesn't do anything, the duty c solenoid is most likely bad, and the clutch packs could be bad.

Do you know what car it's out of? What model/year is your car? Is it auto or manual? They should be very similar, except maybe final drive ratio.

You'll need about a quart per diff. Specific amounts is in the owner's manual. You'll need about 5-6 qts of ATF fluid. The total capacity is around 8, but you never get all of it out when you just drain it. Brake bleeding procedure is the same. Right Front Left Rear Left Front Right Rear

Yeah the 93 should be a direct drop in.

The turbo and non-turbo air cleaner boxes are the same.