Legacy777

They can be quite a pain to get out. I really had to put my weight into it to get the ones off of my ej22t. The bolts should be fine....they're pretty beefy.

So you put mobil 1 synthetic motor oil in? Or mobil one synthetic ATF in? It shouldn't make any difference whether you have synthetic or regular ATF in.

I had a similar issue with my legacy. Turned out to be the MAF sensor. The car would just lose power. If rpms were low, it would just die. If rpms were high, I could usually coax it back to life.

Another pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/cam_sensor.jpg

You can see it in this pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2699.JPG

The add on "filter" kit was a retrofit due to early manufacturing issues with the auto trans. It was meant to catch larger particles, and is similar to the screen in the tranny. It's not really needed on the newer models.

unfortunately, nothing easy because the connector is behind the unit. So to even test if there's power and such at the connector, you'd have to take the unit out. I'd try and get a used one from a junkyard or someone parting a legacy out and swap it in. You may want to also look in the parts shed of www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Yeah, I read it a while ago. It's pretty good, and I sort of came to the same conclusion. I felt absolutely no difference between a new paper filter and a K&N. The fact that the K&N flows better when dirty is irrelevent IMO, because I'll just get a new paper filter......

Yeah, definitely change it. I'm assuming it's an auto. Clean ATF is essential to maintaining transmission longevity.

R12A is essentually propane & butane. Personally, I wouldn't put it in my a/c system. You can read more about it here http://www.corskan.on.ca/svao/newsletter062001.html Scroll down to the automotive air conditioning section.

The question is, how deep do you want to get into things? If you split the case, you might as well replace the bearings. Also, if the cylinders have any scoring, do you want to have them honed....same goes for the pistons.....it can cascade into a lot of money, time, and work. Personally, I'd just replace the headgaskets. Make sure you clean/prep the surfaces correctly. You can see all the pictures of the internals and what you'll have to get into from my teardown and rebuild http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

As Matt mentioned, you can make anything fit. You have two distinct paths in terms of fitment. Get a complete factory setup (that way you know it'll fit) Or go with custom made stuff. Either way, you still have to deal with electrical stuff, and Matt brought up a good point. Just putting a turbo on an engine that it wasn't meant for can cause some issues.

If you're just purchasing a turbo.....then it would be rather difficult. You need exhaust piping, intake piping, bypass valve, oil lines to the turbo, and engine managment

How are you checking the fluid level? You did add fluid to the transmission and not differential, correct?

The chances are that subaru will create a new car to compete in the WRC or a completely different platform. The impreza has become a bloated pig in terms of weight. The new legacy weighs as much or less....and it's a bigger car!

possibly the idle air control valve. May also want to look at the EGR valve.

It sounds like you're having two different problems. You're getting a code for the canister purge solenoid, which is part of the evaporative emissions control system. Also, it sounds like you're coolant temp sensor needs to be replaced. The coolant temp sensor is located under the passenger side intake manifold (brown colored connector one) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG The canister purge solenoid is in the same area, except mounted to the intake manifold (blue connector) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG Another pic of the canister purge solenoid http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG The coolant temp sensor is about 20 bucks, the purge solenoid 60-80 bucks. I recommend www.subarugenuineparts.com Did your reader give you a code number or does it just say EVAP?

Sounds like you lost 4th gear. Don't know how "bad" it is, however I doubt it will come back. That trans will either have to be rebuilt, but personally, I'd recommend finding a used one to swap out with.

There's a couple things that need to be looked at. First is the final drive ratio. The 92-94 AT legacies had a final drive ratio of 3.90. I'm pretty confident the forestor doesn't have a 3.90 final drive ratio. Second is the electronics, they changed electronics or to a "phase 2" transmission, and I believe the electrical connectors are different, which presents a problem with you just hooking it up to your car. For simplicity's sake, try and find an AT from a 92-94 normally aspirated legacy, or one from a 91-94 turbo legacy.

Thanks for the feedback

Not sure what exactly that code means, but it sounds like there may be an issue with the coolant temp sensor, or possibly O2 sensor....and that's causing the air fuel mixture to be out of whack. Other possibility is the ECU might be acting weird.

The shop jipped ya. There is no cap and rotor. Your model has a coil on plug ignition system.It "should" be OBD2, which means you could buy a OBD2 reader, and read the codes and watch the sensors. There should be a plug in the lower portion of the dash below and off the right or left of the steering wheel. If there is one, you can get a reader. If not, look under the dash for a set of black and green connectors. I've got the procedure on how to check the codes and pictures of the connectors for the first gen legacies on my site. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html I don't know of the procedure will be the same, but it'll give you an idea of what the plugs look like. As for your problem....I'd sort of suspect the MAF sensor. But try and pull the engine codes first.

I'm pretty sure it's non-interference. If so, you're fine. Just align the marks on the cam sprockets to the timing belt cover. Align the mark on the back of the crank gear to the mark on the oil pump housing. Put the belt on, and let 'er rip.

So they're saying that ECU is the reason the cruise is not working? Are they saying the car's ECU is the problem or the cruise computer is the problem? I don't see any reason why the car's computer would have anything to do with the cruise not working. It sends signals to the cruise computer to let it know what's going on....but the car's computer does not control the cruise. Personally....it sounds like they're ripping you off.....but that's just me.

Dextron III ATF fluid. Redline D4 ATF fluid is good stuff.