Legacy777

subaruparts.com will sell ya any one you want http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=382

Trust me.....if everything is working fine and you're not overheating.....you do not need a a higher capacity radiator. The cooling systems on these cars are very robust. Even people that turbo charge and run high hp don't have issues with overheating.

You'd have to get belts and such from the cars that went to canada. All the US first gen legacies had the mad mice. There was a guy on the www.bbs.legacycentral.org that did the conversion. You may want to ask/search on there for more details

Dan, Yeah the switch is part of the latch mechanism inside the door. With the door open, take a screw driver and move the latch until it clicks and such. See if you notice any issues. To undo, lift up on the handle and undo the latch. You might have to take apart the door to see inside there too.

here is the factory procedure for doing the t-belt http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg as for finding TDC...I'm pretty sure all you need to do is align the marks on the cam pullies to the plastic cover, and the mark on the crank sprocket in the back to the alignment mark.

the links work.....are you at work.....it's possible they won't load due to corporate firewall. If you are not at work.....and still can't access them....let me know and I'll have to move them to another server. also....what browser are you using?

Here's the factory manual scans on how to put the auto seatbelt computer into diagnostic mode and check what's wrong the hardest part is finding the stupid little connector to put it in diag mode http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg

Do you have a wiring diagram for the sony head unit? It should tell you what the extra two wires are. The things that come to mind are amp turn on, power antenna turn on, and illumination control. The difference between the amp turn on and power antenna leads are that when in cd mode, the power antenna lead is not activated, which will put down the power antenna. What model sony head unit do you have?

rebuild kits come with new rubber boots, seals that go inside the caliper and grease. If the seals are the problem, the rebuild kit should be ok. If you have scarring on the piston then you'll need new pistons....or pretty much new calipers

yeah check your coolant level.....mine did this when I had a leak in my radiator.

I'm goin to move this over to the old gen side. Even though this is a 90's MY car.....it's still an older body style. The guys over there will probably be more knowledgable.

seafoam can be used several different ways. You can pour it in the gas tank, you can let the motor suck it in the intake manifold, and you put it in the crankcase.

The one you want is the two wire sensor. The one wire sensor goes to the dash here's a pic of the sensor, it's the brown one http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG I wonder if before it was imported they replaced the injectors with larger ones.....which is why they had the fuel controller in there to cut back on the duty % of the injectors. It would make sense.....

Might be a coolant temp sensor issue. if the sensor is giving incorrect engine temp info back to the computer that could cause the car to run far richer then it should. Is the car stock? Have you upgraded the injectors or anything else?

The EJ series engines are carbon piggies, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. A lot of us over on the bbs have used seafoam and really like the results. Napa I believe carries it, and you can probably find a local retailer from their site http://www.seafoamsales.com

Proper torque spec is 110 ft/lbs. However I'd recommend 120-140 ft/lbs. I put my UR pulley on about 4 years ago, torqued to 110 ft/lbs and put locktite on, and there was absolutely no issues with it loose...and I just did my t-belt two weekends ago......

yup...gear removal is still the same for FWD

http://www.seafoamsales.com

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

power light & manual button description http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html#powerlight

you can d/l a pdf version from the fsm of some of the engine electrical from me http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans

reset the ecu and then recheck codes....the likelyhood of all those things being bad is slim.

I bled mine yesterday.....I did a good 80 mi drive last night.....didn't have any issues with overheating.....I will check to see if I hear the noise any more.

If you want to give it a shot.......I have not done them, so I can't tell you how easy hard they are.

The atmospheric sensor on the non-turbos is in the ECU itself......unfortunately.....the only cure is to replace the ECU...... Does the light immediately come on after resetting the ECU....or does it take a while? If it doesn't immediately come on, you could try resetting the ECU close to the emissions place and hope it doesn't go on. Since your car is OBD1, they can't plug into it and figure drive cylces, etc.