Turbone

Look, theres no easy way to lower your car. It means you would either have to cut the springs (not a good idea) or go the 5 lug swap route (which might put it out of your price range). I suggested no heavy mods, just make it a nice daily driver until you can afford or find something better. If you dont like our ideas here, go to NASIOC.com. They will help.

Ok, time to inject some old man mentality here. If I were you (God, wish I was) I would concentrate on my driving . You have been driving for what? A year maybe? If you try and make your car look faster, your just going to try and drive faster. That means tickets, accidents, maybe death. You need to learn how to be subtle. Tints the windows. Trust me, this is nice when your GF is in the car with you. Put a nice sound system in it. Then just learn to drive it, learn how to work on it and enjoy it for a while.

Yup, sounds like a good excuse to have another party:drunk:

The early digidashes are extremely sensitive to any flucuation of voltage. The buzzing you hear means the regulator in the dash is fried. If you can find someone in CN to fix it that would be to your benefit. Otherwise the wait here is long to find/fix one.

How small? I think theres some PCV lines on the back of the manifold, but I cant remember where they all go.

Hey guys, dont want to be a party pooper or anything but, shouldnt this be in the Meet and Greet Forum? Give us a time, I might try and make it

Vacume leaks? The turbo is a closed system, any leaks and it might not start.

Or add another star to it like the logo here. Hey, would I need permission to do that?

Thats about the only way to tell its a Soob. That was the first thing to cross my mind. I need to get to work on mine

If the amp is bridgeable you can use it to run 2 or just one speaker. Thats 600watts for one, or 300ea for 2.

I guess some have problems with spelling in Oz too TORBO!

TOD is most common with the hydraulic lifter cars. Came in 83 with the EA81 turbo engine. All the EA82's after that had hyd lifters.

He mentioned changing the clutch, so I assume its a MT. But it looks like a 2wd. If so, to make it 4wd you have alot of work to do. Lift kits are available from 2 different sources here. The best places to get parts are at the Lynnwood PAP, Aarons Subaru wrecking/recycled parts and the Tacoma PAP.

We might be able to get away with some type of logo

Cant do personal cars, cost prohibitive.

Ok, lets stay on topic. It looks like the graphics for the flyers (and maybe more) is going to be the license plate theme. I dont think this is going to work for the hats. How about if we stick to something more Subaru related? That way the hat can be worn for all occasions. But still have the WCSS8 on it, but not as prominant.

I think he passed thru Sac about 2 days ago. Quote> fbh Good luck noah, and if you get REALLY bloody lost, I'm in Auckland New Zealand, 6421-132-6089 Now that would be a serious wrong turn

Why not get another intake? No sense in messing around trying to juryrig something.

Sheesh, shows you how observant I've been. I've got a excuse tho:-\

Excuse me for posting the wrong name of the part It is the fuel regulator. I dont know how you would see if the diaphram is bad, its a sealed unit. I would just crank the engine over for about 5sec, give it rest and repeat a few times. This should purge the lines of air.

It just dawned on me. We display the logo on the top of every page here. Did we need permission? Our are we just taking a chance they dont notice?

He needs to know if its a turbo tranny. The spline count is different, but the gear ratio is the same. The GL 4WD 5spd and DL 4WD 5spd are 3.9. The turbo is 3.7

Check your firing order, again. Quote.... tizzle OK, can I compare this to my problem? I changed the drivers side head. Car Idles beautifully, but when I try to get on the gas, the power is just not there. I REALLY don't want to take that cam case off again, just thinking about it...ugh Check your timing, again.

No, thats the fuel dampner. Its attached to the fuel rail. Sounds like theres air getting in the line somehow. You will have to check the connections from the fuel pump forward and make sure they are all tight. Or, let me ask this. Is the canister located right at the firewall next to the wiper motor? Then it would be the fuel filter. But then there still might be air in the system.

True, when the pump handle clicks off that means your tank is full. There is a sensor in the handle that shuts off the flow when just a little backwash comes up the filler pipe. Try not holding the nozzle all the way in the filler pipe and use the half speed when it starts getting full. Either way tho, the gauge should be reading correcly when the tank is filled normally.