Turbone

Are you related to Miles Fox?

Sorry for the HJ, but how did you mount the hirise? I know the rear is attached to the seatbelt brackets, did you make a seperate mount?

I wouldnt say that. Look at the prices they go for on Ebay. A nice one will sell for $5K+. If someone can afford a Brat for that price, I think they can fork out the $ for lambo doors. But then again, who would want to rice out their Soob with lambo's. Oh, lookie there............

More commonly known as "Lambo" doors. Like to see a pic of a Brat with a set.

Ah, it requires a login and password. Email me the pic and I'll post it. Ok, heres the pic he wanted to post.

A dull sound could be a couple of things. A bad main bearing or piston. The person that might have a engine for you lives in Oly. His name is Mark (XSNRG). Might send him a PM and see what he has.

Yup, right-o. Darn CRS:rolleyes: Forgot about the AT's.

Way to go Ed, I wont be drinking alone then:clap:

Lithium grease attracts dirt like a magnet. Dont recco it for external purposes at all.

Its most likely a solid lifter engine, therefore any tapping will be a valve adjustment. It just doesnt sound the same either.

The rotors, calipers and most important of all, the backing plate.

O'Dooles for me:rolleyes:

Any 85 to 92 Turbo, GL-10 or XT model with 4wd will work.

I must have missed that Thread:-\ But you know, the prices arent all that bad. Look what you would pay for here for some real nice OZ alloys (Or whatever top brand).

Maybe if there was a group buy, it would lower the cost?

I think thats a very acceptable time frame. Now would you care to share the price? If not I would understand.

It only depends if its 2wd or 4wd. Any Soob from 85 to 92(I think) that has disc brakes will work. Most of the Turbo Models had rear disc, and some GL-10''s did also. You will have to have the right running gear to match thats all.

Sweet! How long did you have to wait?

Theres 2 adjusting nuts under the center console for the e-brake. I would suggest you take a look at the front brakes tho. The best way to get rid of the rear brake cylinder problem is to replace them with disc brakes. The conversion is simple and easy. And pads are alot easier to change than shoes.

Welcome to the nuthouse:grin: We are all a little crazy about our cars. As for engines, you can use a 83 or 84. Anything prior to that from 1980 can be used but the emission setups are different. They should be in your local wrekcing yards, and if you are on the east coast there should be some with low miles, seeing how everything rusts out before the engine dies. There might be some members here that can provide with one or a place to get one too. Again, welcome to the Board:headbang:

Dont know about Oregon, but in Washington you need to be 21 to drink:rolleyes: And thats a long ways to drive just for Pizza:cool:

Has it been that long? Last time we went out was Kanaskat, when I had the blue Hatch. Hope to see you again soon to do some more wheeling. I will try and get some pics of underneath, maybe by tomorrow. The tires are 30x10.50 Superswamper TSL's. Very wide tires and make all kinds of noise on the road and stick way out. The wheels are Chevy 15in 6 lugs drilled out to fit the hubs. I would prefer skinnier tires, might look into get some later and selling these. Heres a pic right after I got it and promptly got it stuck in a mud hole. Stupid open diff.

When I got my Hatch there was a "rock slider" installed. Of course, the damage was already done, they were installed in hindsight. It took me a good 2hrs to beat out the rockpan/doorjam so the bottom of the door would seal and not let water in. The door has also been replaced, so whoever did the damage did a real number to it. The bars are 1.5in x 3in stock with flat bar welded to it and then bolted to the frame rails. They are not that heavy and I think its a smart addition to any offroader.

Was it sticking before you replaced the cable?

The problem with the covers is that sometimes the nut on the back cover will just spin in the plastic, which makes it very hard to remove the bolts on the front covers. Usually you end up breaking that piece on the cover and if you break enough of them off, it makes it hard to keep the cover on. So, replacing the covers becomes a option. If you live in the city or suburb, having covers off isnt a problem IMO. If you drive where theres road hazards, you need to consider keeping the covers on.