Turbone

My problrm also. Now that I'm the only driver, I can only bring one car But maybe my RX will be running "better" by then too. And the last show there, we had RALLYX Hope I can do better than 4th in Open Class this time

Yup, covers the RX also.

Sometimes its easier to pull the cam case off first when removing the heads. Some of the headbolts are a PITA to get a socket on.

I think there is 2 sensors for temp. One is for the ECU and the other is for the gauge. On the EA81T Coupe I had there was a tee in the heater hose for the gauge sensor, the one on the therm housing was for the ECU. I'm pretty sure this was part of the Dealer setup.

That would have to be Rieter pit, Evans Crk is too pristine:cool:

What car is it? If its a EA82 you might have displaced the rubber o-ring between the head and cam case. This will cause the HLA's to not pump up from lack of oil and tick. How many miles on the engine? Anything over 100K and a oil pump reseal is a good idea. Btw, oil pressure usually ranges from 0 @ idle up to 75+/- at higher RPM's.

Try sweet talking Patrick

Turbo engines are a closed system. When you take the cap off it causes a big vac leak and dies.

The return line isnt under much pressure, it basicly drains into the crankcase. But the location makes it real difficult to get to. If you have time, taking the turbo off is the bast way to get to it. Otherwise your going to be getting your arm real greasy. And make sure there arent any little kids around to hear you.

Those are water lines. The supply comes from the head and the return goes into the intake manifold. This was a dealer installed recall and not all EA81T's got them because it was up to the owner to bring it in. I dont have anything to go by now to take pics of the actuall fittings, but maybe someone here does.

Dave, dont blow that thing up before I get a ride:brow: I may just have to make a special trip over to your place to check it out

No beating necessary to make it 4WD, it all fits. But, if you are going from AT to MT AND 2WD to 4WD, you will need the front suspension too. The front struts are adjustable and the strut rod caps are different for MT.

It usually looks like that until you drop it on the ground with some weight on it.

Cool, another local Welcome to the board. Are you New Gen or Old?

Glad you got it figured out. Quote---- You may have to remove the cylinder to get the key out. Its a PITA, sorry. What you could do in the meantime is remove the plastic cowling from around the steering colume and on the right side of the ign you will see the relay. Theres 2 small screws that hold it on, remove these and it will come off. You can then turn the cars ign on and off this way and yes, start it also. I've been driving my 86 wagon like this for a while cause the cylinder crapped out on me. And I've been to lazy to fix it Replace all the plastic and tuck the relay under it but with easy access so you can turn it. Your welcome. I think

Give me a call when you get home today, I might be able to drop by.

This has happened to me before. When removing the axle from the hub did you beat on the end of it? Sometimes this will pop the clip loose inside the CV basket. You will have to remove the axle from the hub, sometimes while trying to get it back out it will reseat itself. Not very often, but its happened to me a few times. I might have just gotten lucky tho. Otherwise you will need to remove the boot in order to get access to the ring clip and seat it back into the groove.

Several years ago I got a price for welding them. $150ea. If there isnt significant differences on either side of the crack and if the crack doesnt go up into the exhaust port (location of water jacket) then the head should be fine. Peening the crack if its real high is a option also, dont think it can hurt.

Theres a couple of people off the board here that have gotten market value for their old Subaru's. Bratsrus is one of them, he got $5k when his Brat was totaled. He had proof of the market value, so I suggest you get a hold of him to find out what he did.

I would love to see who would win the race between a XT6 w/4EAT and the same w/5spd w/diff lock. They would both have to be stock of course, but I give the win to the AT @ 60ft. After that, its up for grabs.

Huh, the only good thing I can say about any 3spd AT is that you dont have to change the clutch/pressureplate/TOB. But with the Subaru 3spd AT, you might be changing the gov about as frequently But its a direct bolt up, but you will need to tranny mounts and some minor wiring for the reverse and neutral safety switch.

Noah is spot on there. But I do get emotionaly attached to my cars sometimes :-p

I'm green with envy :cool: I've got a running rig sitting in my yard growing moss on it :-\ For reasons I wont state, I have to stick close to home.

My bad, BB has it right. Thats the ratio for a 86 also.

The ratio for a 86 D/R low is 1.196.