Turbone

Tell you what guys. When it comes for me to build my fence, if you local guys give me a hand, I'll let you store 1 maybe 2 cars in my yard. Yes, I have enough room.

You mean like this? I went to the site and looked around, but I couldnt find any silicone hoses. Guess I'll try after I've had a little more sleep

I think there might some different "priorities" there

Soak all nuts and/or bolts liberaly with vienerslicum and let it sit overnight. The original poster hasnt been on the board in quite a while so maybe someone thats done the job will pitch in as to how difficult it might be. I think the hardest part of the job is the location. Is this the same problem as you are experiencing?

I took a look in my 86 FSM thinking that the specs might have been in "inch lbs" instead of "foot lbs". There are no torque specs for the bolts that attach the oil pump housing to the front of the block. All the specs were for the pieces that are on the pump housing itself. So in other words, dont over tighten and dont use a sealant. I wouldnt put a thread locker on them either, it will need to come off again eventually.

What about the elec hookup? Are you going to have to change it or yours?

Please, no spell checking until you graduate from HS

Can be done by a Subaru mechanic in less than 1hr, unless he is overweight Getting under the dash to the pedal takes a little contorting.

You dont need to remove the engine to remove the x-over. Just remove the motor mount nuts and raise the engine up enough to get it out. Oh, and unbolt it from the turbo. Which is usually a PIA, especially the brace :-\

Jeez, I guy gets something for nothing and the vultures come out of the woodwork Good score, about as good as is gets. Mine ran when I got it but I put new T-Belts on it to be safe. The most work I had to do on it was a major cleaning.

Thats a good point about the exhaust ports, altho I think if you stayed mainly in the rim of the port you might be all right. Delta Cams is in Tacoma, should be in the phone book or someone here will have the #. NorthWet, you need dead heads? I got a few, you can grab one when you come pick up that TC

Some GL models that had all the options, but were not RX's had different colors. Blue is one, but thats all I can think of right now.

Well, after reading all the posts, until your last one, I was ready to say run it. Oil that sits for 2yrs or more is going to discolor. Now you may have to flip that coin. Theres been some folks that have run engines with very small HG leaks for quite a long time, with no problems. This might happen in your case. You can run it the way it is, and if you keep an eye on the oil I think it might be fine. But sooner or later those HG's are going to have to be changed.

I just read this, at 8pm PSTime. Its going to have to wait till tomorrow. If you dont get a reply, you will need to remind me. I suffer from CRS

There is a sensor in each shock and the computer tells the solenoid when to release air. When you reach 45mph(I think) the car will lower. Either your computer is bad or the shocks. Go over to XT6.net, they can tell you more about it. I bypassed the computer and compressor on mine and fill them manually now.

Ok, enough tech stuff and back to topic The reason I bought my RX is because its the rarest of all. They only made a black RX in the last half of 89. If it wasnt for this, I would still own my 84 T-Coupe. And embarrasing alot of RallyX's with newer/faster rigs.

Eww, I know for a fact if you take that trail its not getting thru without a beauty mark. Or 2 Might come and watch, but cannot do any trails. For my trucks sake

You need to loosen the pulley which keeps tension, then push against it and tighten.

All the fuses are good, I'm replacing a relay tomorrow (for the fan). But the compressor will not turn on. Is there a way to bypass the AC to get the defroster working?

Actually, OEM is the best and they arent that expensive.

Make sure you replace it with a OEM thermostat.

Welcome to the club, but you dont need a RX to post here. Just a Old Gen Soob. Oh, the RX is nice, to bad its white tho :cool: J/K, I'm biased

1. Grounds, add another one and clean the old ones. 2. Put a different battery in, see if the same problem occurs. 3. Look at Ign switch connector under the dash cover (its pink). Sometimes with age this gets overheated and looses good contact and/or melts.

Why dont you trade her, and a little cash? You could fix hers and turn around and sell it, making your money back. Hope you can get it fixed Connie, the brakes are real important and getting rebuilt cylinders might be an option. No sense in putting new brakes on when those leak. The timing belts are another must and are only about $50 total(depending on where purchased, might be cheaper). Water pump can be replaced the same time the belts are done. The oil leaks can be fixed later on, unless its spewing out like the main vein has been cut. The clutch can also wait, at least until it wont go any more. Maybe some adjustment will help? The ticking is pretty normal when warming up. If you have the time and money you can replace the oil pump seals, this will quiet it down for a long time. Good luck, and maybe someone from the board in your area can give you hand.

Hey, thats Buckley Evans Crk is just passed my place about 20mi. and on the way up to Mt Rainier