Turbone

It appears that way

I would make sure the speedo cable from the tranny is connected to the back of the inst cluster. Dont have any suggestions with the rest.

Yes it will, but the compression ratio for those engines are only 7.7:1 Not to mention you will need the ECU and knock sensor.

Yup, thats it.

Right on both. The cam tool comes in handy for when you need to loosen/tighten the bolts on the sprocket. The flywheel lock is for when you need to tighten the crank bolt.

I'm still in.

Might be closed due to fire hazard.

I would make sure thats open to the public before starting off.

What I would like to see available is the cam holder tool and a flywheel holder tool.

Wear a glove :-p You should be able to remove the DP from the turbo and the center section. If its all one piece from the end of the DP back, then somethings been replaced before.

Thats not the cat you need. Its going to be alot harder to find one on line, especially if its not OEM. I have a few laying around.

Sorry, link added. I was trying to head out the door.

Heres a link to the axle swap, its not that hard really. And when I do axle nuts, I dont use a torque wrench. I use my 185lbs and a cheater bar This method is probably not recommended for a newb tho. Dont use the cheater bar. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

Its the auxiliary air valve. It should have 2 lines, one from the intake manifold and the other from the intake plenum. I still havent looked at the intake I have to figure out the metal line.

If you arent sure he replaced the axles with new ones, this might be the whole problem. Dont even bother getting rebuilt axles, they are usually junk. Another thing to look at is the axle nut itself. These need to be torqued to 145lbs and then turned another 30deg to line up the hole for the cotter pin. Jack up the car so the tire is off the ground, grab the tire top/bottom and see if you can move the tire. If theres movement, tighten the axle nut more. If theres still vibes/noise w/e, I would replace the axle with a new one

Mines big enough to have both in it. I just keep them separated. I also have a bag I keep in what ever I'm driving. Have enough tools in to do a complete tear down if needed. I also have a 9 drawer Craftsman, but its full of electronics

Just fill it enough that when you stand it up it doesnt drain out. Once you have everything together, fill the tranny the rest of the way.

According to the 86 FSM, timing for a SPFI AT is 20deg and if its carbed 8deg. There should be a label on the hood stating what it should be also. You should refill the TC before re-installing. Also when putting the TC on the tranny shaft, make sure it locks in. Keep turning it and pushing, you will feel it when it does. The mounting tabs should be almost even with the bell housing. Failure to do this will crack the pump during installation of the engine to tranny.

Uh, sure you can. Also make sure the rotor is still attached on the disty shaft.

Yeah, the main culprit with this sensor is corrosion. Cleaning the contacts and replacing the terminals on the wires will usually clean up the code. Check the wires too. If they are hardened, go back to where they are pliable and replace with new wire from that point.

I have let many go by, have also missed alot of buys. But something else comes around and I end up with a better deal. In a few weeks everyone will get to see my latest purchase

Yeah there is, but I've never heard them rattle like that. I have heard the heat shields rattle pretty bad tho, but nothing like what he has in the vid.

Money talks...........but timing is everything :-p

It depends from whom you buy it from. I've sold a good used one for $50 before. I might have another one laying around. I'll see if I can find one tomorrow.

I'm not sure what the metal line is, I dont have this intake on my RX anymore. I might be able to look at one I have laying around, but no guarantees on knowing where it goes. Heres the link to the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918