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I put a remote start on my 94 Legacy GT, best thing since butt wipe on a roll, it was a no brainer as the car had no factory alarm. I want to get one for my main squeeze's '03 VDC Outback, it has a very sophisticated alarm system. Does anyone have any recommendations - I don't feel good about using the Best Buy Boyz. Maybe I'm worried about nuttin ... will the alarm system get it's panties in a bunch if the car is started with the alarm set? There has to be an interface between the two as I believe the alarm has a no start mode when it is set.???

PMIMP, the horns are adjustable. There are contacts inside each horn similar to relay contacts. They do corrode but also get out of adjustment. You can remove the horn and fine tune it on a bench. To get to the horn, remove the head lamp assm. (4 - 10 mm nuts on back side of core support and one ph. head screw in side light) the horn is mounted behind bumper. Once on the bench, you will see a small ph. head screw with a lock nut. Connect +12V and "tweak it". Hearing protection suggested Hope this helps

oinesra, This is not a "rare" item. Have you no bone yards in your area? I explained which cars will have this item. Or you could send a private message to oddcomp. IF you decide this method of fixing your problem is too difficult and do want to spend all that cash on an aftermarket ignition system. The ignition pulse system you have is called a crank angle distributor. Make sure the system you choose can sense this type of control if it uses the distributor pick up for it's firing signal. Hope this helps Happy Holly daze

Sooby I see you are relatively new, some of us have chosen to not display the section called "Signatures" If the car you are working on is displayed there, I'm sorry. Some people also work on other than their own Soobs. But the FPCU varies on the different model Subes we talk about here. Please give the year, model, and fuel system of the car (carb, Spfi, MPFI, or turbo MPFI) when posting questions. Most fuel systems have the ground or negative side of the fuel pump under the control of the FPCU. The hot or positive side is controlled via the FPR (Fuel Pump Relay) which in turn is controlled via the ignition switch/relay. Trying to help

Simply put the FSM is wrong. I own several 87+ turbo'd cars and have worked on the entire boost control system of each. I have never seen this devise. It is no doubt left over from the flapper door (moving air vane) system, which do have this switch.

Mytoy Welcome aboard the good ship USMB. Good to see another Pa-ian in the mix. Strange problem you have workin here. I'm gonna guess it's the right (pass. side) headlamp that is dim??? If so you may have a right side headlight relay that is toast. (under the dash, up beside the streeing col. on the outboard side - very hard to get to. There will be a cluster of relays may have to drop the ECU to have at it) Just for kickies, try switching the parking light switch on top of the steering column a couple times, maybe it's stuck in an intermediate position. Next the ground for both headlights is the black ground wire connection on the inner fender behind the coil. Pretty hard to see, may have to lift the coil bracket. If you are new to Roo's the headlights work by switching the ground side of the lamp filament you want lit - not the hot side (like most American cars do). Here is a wiring diagram. Hope this helps.

We have a bit of confusion here The dealer has misunderstood the unit in question. It is not a noise suppression capacitor i.e. "noise wire" This is what Sube mech is describing. What you need is the ignition amplifier. Post over on maket place for one Should be no problem all MPFI 87 and later and SPFI cars have this devise

put in an auxillery switch or open the connector I spoke of. the article in the USMB repair and Mod section may help

Ah sorry Will, 85 RX = non crank angle distributor I might favor a sticking ignition relay. The fire of a cyl upon ignition "on" is normal. the engine only stops at four positions all yield a pistion ready to fire

zeke, the switch is very hard to see. As NW says it on the back, top of the tranny, on the pass side. If you find the vacuum servo follow the actuation cable from it to the lever on the tranny. The switch is on the rear end of this lever. The wires run to the dash under the spare tire. There is a connector there, where the wires change color.

SS has the correct idea. Plus some heating and bending of the control rod. I have one in my wagon made for me by Bythe sea. I have photo documention on the process. But this picture tells the story. Unit on the left is the modified shifter. Modded rod is on the bottom. Note: Some minor sheet metal bending of the front of the tunnel opening may be required. Factory bushings when tight work great. Hope this helps

Lori, here is a site that details programing for all models Subaru Keyless Remote Info Hope it helps

Jim, please. Remember I am trying to help.

No need gettin in a huff Jim You just need to learn to read a little more carefully when some one is trying to help you.

You're welcome Toni, glad we could help. Incidentally I just purchased the FICS for my Legacy, looks very similar but no wires, plug fits on unit. The Subaru dealer only charged me 30 beans plus tax. Might go price one there? They might not give you a refund but may cut you some slack on the coolant sensor? Good luck and welcome aboard the good ship USMB

ah Jim did you by chance finish reading my post? to quote myself: " A second post shows your problem and how changing the relay solved it." I refered you to the post for the resistor block location. I believe you do know how to use the search function? Power is not fed through the resistor block. Battery voltage is constantly present on the motor when the key is on. The resistor block controls the ground for the blower motor speeds 1,2,3. The switch then puts full ground on the motor for high speed (4) thus bypassing the resistor block.

Jim, would have thought you might have done a forum search on this. It was extensively covered just last week Here is the link to the post which shows the resistor block Blower fan problem A second post shows your problem and how changing the relay solved it.

Mary Does your carb happen to have an anti diesel solenoid? Long hexagon device with one wire out it's tail, sticking out the front of the carb. Sure sounds like the symptoms of the solenoid loosing power or for some reason going intermittent.

I'm only 6' 2 but you'll get the idea Scott took this at the meet Brat cart on the move

Jeff, I had a similar problem with my 85 Brat. It would do just about what you describe. I did what you did with the same results. The problem tuned out to be rust in the petrol tank. It would get sucked onto the pickup sock and limit the fuel flow to the pump/carb. Let it idle or shutting the car off would let the pumped volume return to a level where it was drive able. I put a tee on the fuel line to the carb and put a temporary fuel pressure gauge in the cockpit. The carb icing may also be a question No mention of temp when this happens? Is the warm air tube and it's control system operative? Other problems that will cause this bad ignitor in the distributor bad coil. Both can return to normal after the engine cools.

Toni, Here is the correct link for the page you requested http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6489 This post outlines what I believe to be your problem. The Fuel Injection Coolant Thermosensor. It tells the ECU the engine is cold and to add more fuel. If your 88 is fuel injected (SPFI) it will have the same FI CT. Upper rad hose connection on the engine. There are two there, the one with two wires connected to it, is the one you need. Hope this helps Hope this helps.

ruptured vacuum modulator can cause this

Not to be rude but now I remember why I quit trying to help you in the past.... You do not say you checked for voltage at the motor - but it must be present since you say you can control the speed??? if the relay/ power feed is to blame you will not have battery voltage on the Green w/ white wire at the motor. Please read this - there are three (3) fuses in the fuse box that are required to make this system operate. fuse # ----- power to 1 ------------blower relay contacts 2 ------------blower relay contacts (wired in parallel with #1) 12-----------blower relay control coil ( powered from ig sw.) Here is where your resistors are. Hope this helps?

Mad, the head lamps are earth switched as you have no doubt learned. The ground connection that is used to switch the headlamps on via the headlight relays (one for the right and another for the left) is located on the inner fender behind the coil. The running light are also switched by the rocker switch on the top of the steering column. The switch may be in an intermediate position. Here is a wiring schematic for you. Hope this helps.

Scott aka SubaruBrat has a most excellent write up on his site here is his engine instal page ER27 into a Brat Here ia one of his pictures, hope this is what you were looking for