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I had this exact problem with an 87 carbed 4x4 wagon. This fix was given to me by Kerry at Roobuilders, he is IMHO the man when it comes to Hitachi carbs and their problems. Here is a link you can ask him directly http://www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders/#carb For a test only. On the aircleaner housing snorkle you will see a small solenoid. Remove the line from the carb to this solenoid and plug it. Take a test drive and see if that cures the hesitation at part throttle. Good luck, hope this helps

Mike, you say "the axle spins while the car is in nuetral..." This is normal. It results from the parastic drag induced by the thick transaxle oil on the input shaft and the cluster gear. Now as for your other questions: to wit I think the car never had a neutral set spring (maybe Ive lost it). Never heard of this part, could you mean a) the small spring on the shifter mechanism that loads the shifter when in neutral.. The clutch return spring....... My guess is b This due to your next question "the bottom one is the clutch cable but what is the top one and how is it properly adjusted? The other cable is for the Hill Holder (HH) it also functions as the clutch return spring (or neutral set spring?) To properly adjust the clutch cable (CC) you must have it (the HH cable) connected. Leave the CC loose, adjust the HH cable so that it just pulls the clutch fork (arm) toward the front of the car. Now to adjust the clutch cable (CC). Put the nut on the cable end far enough so there is some clearance between it and the fork. Inside the car check the "free play" in the clutch pedal. This is the small movement of the clutch pedal before any resistance is felt. Adjust the CC so that there is about one half inch (12 mm) of "free play". That is all there is to adjusting the CC. Make sure to put the lock nut back on. This small amount of "free play" guarantees the pressure plate is fully released. The HH cable adjustment is done by trial and test. Set it, as above test it. Does the car roll backward on hills when the clutch is depressed and the brakes are released? If so adjust the HH cable tighter (turn nut clockwise 1/2 turn) try it again, so on and so on. BTW there is no lock nut on the HH cable the "coping" on the nut retains it in position. When adjusted properly the brakes should release just before clutch take up. Hope this helps somewhat

Lewis, sorry on the color of the LED, the newer cars changed to red. It sounds like the 02 sensor is funtioning normaly. Guess you missed me saying Didn't care to do my brake booster test? That was suggested from you saying "the booster end attached and blow/suck into it...I can feel air coming out when I blow into the hose " To answer one of your questions, yes there should be a check valve in the large line to the power brake booster. You may have a crack in check valve from your blow/suck air coming out description. Did you spray this area with starting fluid to see if there was a leak? The back fire is an indication of running lean, the brake booster line check valve if broken could be causing a large vacuum leak and be the source of your problem. The GREEN connectors (a matched pair of single wire connectors above the master cyl.) are to be plugged together for setting the ignition timing as you say. The link I gave you will discuss the pair of white/maybe black connectors and their use for reading trouble codes. These will also be in the same area as the green connectors. Have fun and good luck, I tried. Sorry I could not have been of more help. Skipout

Kami, nice car. Few of them on the board. I did a quick search for "boost" and turned this for you. Lots of info you may want to mull over Hope it helps http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3062&highlight=boost+limit

Sorry Paul, I know things are tight, but swappin the reg and ins on the beater 3 door sounds like a better plan. I know how much you like that wagon and they are becoming harder to find in that or any condition. I appologize for my concern, I should have said it differently

Lewis, please excuse me for going on like that. First I would like you to test the vacuum brake booster. With the engine off. Pump the brake pedal several times and hold it down. Start the engine -does the pedal fall towards the floor slightly? If it does it's probably okay. Now GD is correct, I was refering to checking the 02 monitor for proper 02 sensor operation. Do as I said and watch for the flash, if no flash then talk about changing the 02 sensor. GD is right on this one to. If you are replacing it you may just cut the wire and use a deep well socket. If you have never changed it and have owned it that long well sorry to say, it probably wants changed. He is also quite correct in that we do not need a scan tool of any sort. Here is a link for a chart and instructions for checking codes, but if you have not seen a "Check Engine" light, there will not be any codes stored. Your connectors are under the hood, in the area of the drivers side hood hinge. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ The IAC can be removed, cleaned internally and replaced, use care and you will not need a new gasket. You will do fine, you have a lot of "auto-sense". If you have made it this far with no FSM (Factory Service Manual) I have faith it the fact you can fix this. Let me know if I left anything out

I agree with Keith on all counts except... This is an SPFI and if I am not mistaken the FI coolant thermosensor is located on the goose neck. (I think Keith is refering to a MPFI/Turbo model.) Another thought is a sticking IAC valve. If it sticks open - could it lean the mixture to the point of no fire? As it is just a throttle plate by pass, this theory probably holds as much H20 as a toilet paper roll

I started noticing an increase in noise about a month before lock up. This requires a total dismantle sorry, the tranny and the diff/tranfer case are all one unit. Sorry I was not of much help

Sorry for the delayed post but since no one else will come forth here is my story My 3AT did the for mentioned fluid swap. It was as you say the seal between the diff and the tranny output shaft. The failure was related to the bearing that holds the shaft. The bearing went, the shaft wobbled the seal went then the front wheels locked up due to gear misalignment. I would say it's tranny/diff time, but this is only my (and a couple guys at the time which told me their tales) expierence.

First off, you of all people should know better than to beat a precious touring wagon up with a plow. Regaurdless of what they will say, pushing a plow puts more (read undue) stress on all major drivetrain componets. I'll step down now while saying "Go with the Monkster's most excellent suggs, he has his beans all in one pod. The winch that runs the up/down on the plow will tax the entire battery charging system" Skipout while shaming on you

Ma - no sir my list does not refer to your car, sorry it is for the EA82 series only. Your app. is way diff. To follow on with GD's comments. The listing I gave is for a factory equipped CC EA82 cars. The harness for it (GL-10) is integrated into the main harness. But all GL-10 of this era (87-89) had CC standard. There are, as GD says, dealer installed CC units, I bought two for my two Brats off of Billy C when he surfaced there a while back. The main question here is the VSS, vehicle speed sensor. One kit came with a remote sensor one did not. The throttle actuators are very different also some being spilt cable unit others connecting to the throttle plate bell crank. Don't help much I know but this is kind of "tramping" on Partsman's post.

Just a small clarifcation: The 89 GL-10 5 speed manual transmission models had LSD standard, the FT4EAT automatics did not. (I drive one, Dr RX straightened me out as I to thought it should have an LSD rear) As for the question, I have both a GL and a GL-10 wagon. Both hot wire MAF. My pick for comfort is the GL-10 for hot rodding the GL weighs less, but the GL-10 gets a rear anti sway bar, the turbo GLs do not. Both do have rear disc brakes. To avoid the noid of electronic fuel cut pre 87 models have the vane (flapper door) MAF, it has been said they are easier to modifiy. Adjusting the spring in the flapper door can enrichen the mix, or so they say. If you choose an earlier model stay away from the automatic 3AT. Problematic and very low eff. If you are all about performance - go 3 door RX - not a wagon, but lots of cargo room in the back and they come with a 10 speed tranny w/LSD. Plus they have stiffer susp bits. Doubt you've read this far, but hope it helps.

I like GD's sug on the 02 sensor. If it is functioning somewhat it will not set an error code. Check it's operation by viewing the 02 monitor LED on the end of the ECU. (the same LED used for checking for stored error codes) If you have not found the ECU yet, it is to the left and under the steering column, you must drop the trim panel to see it. A gold/silver box, the end facing you will have a dark circle, this is the LED. With the engine warm and idleing you should see a green LED flash at random intervals at a freq of about once every 5 to 10 seconds. If you do not see it flash, then it has probably run it's course and wants replaced. A universal single wire Bosch is around 20 dollars. BUT I think the idle / no idle problem is the IAC or Idle Air Conrol valve. This electrical devise located on the very front of the throttle body, is the idle speed control. It gets gummed up over the miles and wants it's air control valve cleaned. It can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner. General assumtion - this car has SPFI HTH

Matt, the susp from an XT6 needs swapped in the frnt and hubs in the rear. Here is a start http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8975&highlight=conversion Dr RX pioneered this, here is his most excellent write up from his web site http://corkysrocks.net/Conversion%204%20to%205.htm If this isn't enough please try a search for "conversion". HTH

You are welcome Bill, good luck.

Lot -0- help Jim, would fix his problem doh?. Bill, please read this link, esp the Edrach posts, he is a resident master. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+replacement HtH

Well you said it did this with the old cable also, if it was routed incorrectly...never mind..as you say. The HH is no doubt out of adjustment, this probably is why it isn't holding. Thje FSM even details a try and error method, adj tighter -try it, adjust try it... T&E so to speak. If you manualy pull the clutch fork does the pedal come to the proper position? Sorry I couldn't help.

Sorry W.O. they did not have LSD, as the Doc pointed out. I have an 89 GL-10 FT4EAT w/o LSD, I wondered about this when I got mine, he set me on the path to correctness. Now the standard (read manual tranny) models did get the LSD standard, also as said by "the Doc".

I have both flywheels here in my shed, I just weighed each and the diff is approx 3.5 lb (sorry no digital scale) The "meat" is where it will do the most good - around the perimeter, there are timing marks on both f.wheels. The bolt pattern/spacing for the crank and p.p. is the same. The only thing that may cause problems is the outer edge of the XT6 f.wheel is chamfered, (see pict) the EA82T wheel is not. Is the any part of the ER engine that might cause interference issues? The middle and one on the very bottom are f.wheel are the from the XT6. (The other is an EA82 put on a lathediet.) HTH

Tom the light is triggered by a thermistor in the sending unit. So sayth the FSM. (no doubt as the varriable resistor for the gauge exploses more winding, the small current passing through them causes them to get hot closing the thermistor?) The sending unit at the back of the tank will have a white w/ yellow wire. This is the wire for the low fuel light. The green/black wire is the ground and the black /yellow is the gauge. If you remove the white/yel wire the lamp should go out - IF the problem is in the sender unit. Make sure the green/black is getting a good ground (note this wire changes to a black wire at a connector near by.) If the ground is bad - the varriable resistor for the gauge could be seeking a ground through the lamp - thus lighting it. After thought -if you remove the w/y wire and the gauge quits working then the above senario is the case. I added a ground to my 85 Brat buy running a wire to one of the tank mounting bolts. HTH

Is the cable routed under the steering column below the master cyl? If not it could be binding there. Guess the HH is okay as you don't mention checking it

Radical mate, glad they help. Ah -nah, I go "bare back" if it's all the same to her

Hog, check the fluids, the one that is low will give a good indicator of what it being burned- it could be ATF. The modulator, similar to the 3AT mod, can rupture and cause ATF to sucked into the intake manifold. The rattle you hear could be the AFT in the combustion chamber - as it burns much hotter. If the oil is low, it could be turbo bearing seals. As for the shift problem,- this will be a 4EAT transmission. The hard 1-2 shift is caused by worn fluid or the line pressure duty solenoid, which is known to fail. This will also cause a TQ early lock up also. If you get to check it out again there is a "power" light on the dash, it will flash after start up indicating a problem, the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) will output codes if asked to. Good luck, your $$ est is correct. BTW I also have an 89 GL-10.FT4EAT turbo

JW, on the pedal problem, RiverR has a must look at answer. If that is not the case check the Hill Holder cable. The spring on the HH is the return spring. Possibly it is not returning the "free play" in the pedal. BUT check for frayed inner cable bits as RR said. The turbo "whirrrrrr", could be the speed 0 cable wanting some lube. They will make a similar noise in the cold. HTH

Sorry Paul, no help on the Brat conundrum. I will ask my bro-in law the Roo stealer salesman, see what he can dig up. Please put me inline for the shell though, I have a racing cart from the 60's that would make a real nice chassis under it. Some monster tires and she'd be a show piece in the parade, leading my Panzers. arf arf