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according to the FSM (Factory Service Manual) The line on the driver's side if the heater core output (flows back to the H20 pump) The pass side goes into the core BTW there is no valve in this system - the heat is controlled via a "blend door" in the HVAC housing.

the vacuum compressor (pump) is used on turbo cars as they have a positive manifold pressure when the turbo is boosting. Your's may just tap off the manifold vacuum. Another bit of kit you will need to investigate is the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) Some aftermarket units use the tachometer signal off of the coil negative side. Some have magnets on the DOJ (inner CV) and a reed switch fitted close by. Some tap an existing VSS. You might find (under the dash -pull the panel that is above your knees when driving) a black box with the manuf. and model number on it. Good luck.

if you have the time put the bearings in you freezer (or outside which ever is colder) and heat the housing to about 120 degrees in ?? Work fast and the bearing will go in much easier.

SUPER job Mick Thanks for all the time and effort!!!!

Gary, for the help of others helping the item in question is the support shaft for #5 in this picture My sugg. is go to a dealer and have them order it Take the picture if you have to.

You are correct sir, my mistake the cable if for the 4EAT The only solenoid is for the 4wd engagement (the 4EAT has some internal not the 3AT) and the only modulator is the vacuum one I mentioned. I got out my FSM (Factory Service Manual) and the internal shifting is controled by the lever you see operated by the shift rod. Like you said, something internal appears to have come loose. and is allowing the hydraulic fluid to be moved where it should not. If you would like I will examine this in the FSM to a more exact degree.

did you have it torn down to this level? If not that is what is needed to correct your problem Good luck, I tried.

The rubber line you see is probably just a vent tube for the front diff The vacuum Bratman mentions on a 3AT is just for the vacuum modulator (down shifting on hills ect) Your problem sounds like the shift linkage is knackered somehow. Jack it up crawl under and examine the linkage connecting the shifter to the tranny. Something slipped or is not moving what it's suppose to where the cable from the shifter connects to the tranny linkage.

I had a 2000 Forester S Premium it came with LSD but it was an auto, I don't know the ratio of the rear diff.

If you have an Advance Auto they carry a full line of these also.

Here it is, located down by the oil filter My knife is for size reference Ground the wire to it and see if the gauge pegs.

first place I would start is the switch gear assoiated with the brake/clutch pedal(s) either one if closed will cause the system to not "cruise". you do not mention a tranny so if it is an auto ignore the clutch pedal reference.

the operation involves removing the shuttle It is the spool valve mechanism. Clean varnish off of it and more importantly deburr the ends of the shuttle. These burrs can cause it to hang up in the cylinder it travels in. If it hangs so does the gear shift.

91Loyale, laid the straight skinny on the line, Mr Wongie. I wrote the forementioned article on correcting a knackered Gov It's in the old repair manual which has not been tranfered to this server yet. I still have a copy with pictures I could email you (it's in a .doc format)

Welcome to the USMB Mr. Golly Please read through this post, it might yieild some interesting info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93945

we got so mired in the HG problem the fact that the 96 2.2 is NON interference was over looked Yes TBs are a maintainace item but if an idler or tensioner goes poof it's just some front engine work on the 96 2.2 It could mean pulling the engine to do a valve job on the 2.5 or worse.

look under the hood meaning the surface of the hood on the underside. Vacuum diagram may be there. The picture may be part of a criuse control system little hard to see in your picture. Maybe the idle up for an AC system. Does it in any way have linkage going to the throttle control?

Joakim, there is no "exhaust manifold" per say, the exhaust pipes come right off the heads. There is a "cross over pipe" that connects to both heads, then feeds the exhaust to the turbo Next there is a down pipe from the turbo that contains the cat. I do not have a cross over pipe picture but hear is what a a custom down pipe looks like without the cat. I'll look around for a cross over pipe shot

Correct JoAnne I'm not sure of the year of the change but my 94 has a front and rear bottle/pump. My 97 and my 2003 have a single unit with two pumps mounted under the hood.

sorry mate, but it sounds like the pump is toast I'll take it the ATF does not smell like gear oil.

On the other hand, if you have the pistons in a position where you have open valves they will hit and you move the cam......

That's the dipstick on the passenger side of the engine compartment, right? ?? I recently went through and changed the fluids Ah sir, I do not want to sound presumptuous but the only way I know to add fluid to the front diff is through the dip stick hole. Since you recently changed the fluid you should know where it is. The ATF in the tranny may smell of gear oil if this is happening. If you find the fluid level is good (very hard to get an accurate reading sometimes).... Some folks here say "Trans X" works wonders on low pressure from the hydraulic pump.

here is a veru crude picture of how I mounted the center caps. A lot of body shops have "stud welders" The caps are SS so a 3" or so 10-24 stud welds in with no damage to the face of the cap

you are sure they are "burned" not bent? If the belt breaks you know I'm sure it can bend valves Also if the a cam moves while replacing the belt it can bend valves

gotta dig deeper for the Pug wheel but the mount involved a SS stud welded on the rear of the cap and a wing nut affair made of 0.125" Al that threaded on the stud Here is another idea. I did these out of clear polycarb for the RS wheels on my SS. Using the CNC router I reverse cut the "SUBARU" Then beveled the outer edge to make them a snap fit. Little bead blasting on the back and bingo