1 Lucky Texan

if you go quickly and it isn't raining, etc. - unlikely to get much moisture in the system. auto parts stores loan out vacuum pumps, maybe the gauge set too but I dunno about that. or, do the mechanical work as GD said and take the car to a shop to charge. (make sure your crank pulley isn't separating. it's rare but, they can slip and make a noise, it would be very unlikely on a 10 year old car though))

double check wiring harnesses? did you dent the transmission pan? wonder if the converter was not fully seated - from what I have read, it can be very tricky and if you used the bolts to force the engine/trans together in the last 1/4" or so - you probably cracked the pump. But, I don't think the car would move at all so, less likely.

looks like it may have the 15010AA320 oil pump - I think that's 10mm it's a PZEV - so I think it has a carbon intake filter???? dunno if it 'needs' premium, I'm sure my mil has been running regular.

I asked about prior work done, because there have been instances where the wrong fluids have been drained/refilled. the drain plug on the front diff has a magnet. Typically, there's a less than 1/4 - 1/2 teaspon of 'sludge' on it. if you found 'pieces' on it, or, an excessive amount of debris - that would condemn the front diff. some people have experienced cracked flexplates that can make noise. check youtube for recordings of some failing subarus - maybe you'll recognize the sound? you might start checking LKQ and car-part.com for replacement transmissions.

tires all the same? can you feel anything in the car or just a sound? does the sound change with turning? checked fluid condition in the front diff and the trans(that one you check while idling of course) is the car new to you? any wrecks or work done to the car in the days or weeks before this started? I also would like to find an indie mech near me. I DID take my WRX to AWD Tuning in Flower Mound - great shop. Just very far away. ($200 flatbed tow !!!)

may not know if it's available for several weeks/months but, it has 14,400 miles now! I think we're gonna get it unless something happens to it. probably put my WRX on rec. vehicle insurance, and DD the 03 outback, my wife is tired of the OB but I like it. She has driven the Forry a coupla times so - seems like a no brainer if it works out. thanx guys

we're accustomed to 20 or so on both cars since they primarily get surface road, stop&go uses. does it need high octane fuel? any issues with 'oil screens' ?

it has a decent oil pump? I thought 12 was the FB year, anyway, I bet I can put a timing kit on it myself since I managed to do my WRX's. Probably need it in 2020 or so on the 'time' side of the schedule. is it SOHC?

I may have an opportunity to buy a very low miles 2010 Forester automatic (4eat? 5eat?) soon. Just wondering what little, or BIG, issues I might expect. any have one long-term here? has it been OK? or will it be a nightmare? it's had the fuel tank replaced due to some kind of stuck vent valves. door dings and slight hail damage. (I know it's gonna need some fluids changed, but it really is a little old lady car, my MIL's car.)

this may seem basic but, did you push the light stalk forward? abs can often be the first sign of electrical problems, test the battery and alternator output. of course, wheel sensors and other issues could be present.

I saw one once at a music festival in Palestine TX. I think it had NY plates.

the old mounts were both rough/crunchy feeling. glad to have new ones - plus the new struts. car even feels better now, maybe smoother/quicker feeling steering, less dive and squat. Seems like a little more road noise. old pass side mount; https://goo.gl/photos/f21GfRMDyhEyMPmi8 new - Group N baby! https://goo.gl/photos/X6KbebehcqF4w4PTA

make sure to use the 'groove/dash line' on the tab at the rear of the crank sprocket. (align with the groove on that 'boss' above at approx. 12 o'clock.) do not use any arrow or triangle on the front of the sprocket. you can search for your engine to find the cam alignment positions. One may be tricky to hold in position but, if you align the crank firrst, all the pistons will be at mid-travel and valves will be safe if the cam slips. also, find the tooth count for your engine. use it to triple check after you pull the tensioner pin and crank the sprocket thru 2 times to bring it back to the timing positions. don't start the engine if the tooth count is wrong.

I dunno if they'd experience 'stellar' sales, but I have always maintained that there is an untapped decent market for even compact pick-ups. whether as a commuter or a second-third car 'bomb around town' type vehicle. But it needs to LOOK like a pick-up truck, not an 'open back sedan'. Something in the old Isuzu P'UP size up to mid-size might do OK. Offer it perhaps as an extended cab, make a 'sport' model too. maybe use some BRZ parts (or other Toyota 2wd parts) for a 2WD model, offer AWD as well? But, perhaps their Toyota board members don't want the competition?

Sivart, consider finding a local shop (ask for a suggestion in a new thread) to inspect the car; have the mechanic tell you what needs to be done NOW (timing belt service ? when was it done?) what you should save up for (struts? inner tie rods? brakes ?) what you might live with (squeaks, drips, burned-out dash bulbs, etc.)

not sure on a 97 - if it's rear disc, the parking brakes are inside the center drum area and can be loosed by rotating the 'star' wheel downward. Look behind an oval rubber plug on the backing plate. (unless they are frozen in place...)

have you considered a Forester? I think you get better entry and departure angles to start. dunno on crosstrek but, you might also ask over at subaruoutback.org and the forester forums

as for mods and dealers, in theory (research Magnusson-Moss act as it pertains to autos) a dealer/manufacturer that is denying a warranty claim would need to prove your unapproved mod/treatment of the vehicle caused the damage. Of course, this 'could' get into a fingerpointing waste of time before any resolution. In the past, Subaru has offered rear diff protectors and other items designed for off-road use. Those of course wouldn't be questioned. outside of the warranty period - I suppose any mechanic could reject working on a car if they felt it had been compromised by a mod. This would probably be more likely at a dealership. I can't really help with anything else.

were you able to watch the youtube video I linked? (just left CoSpgs coupla weeks ago - got caught in horrible white-out on 64 going to Clayton. terrifying)

except the rad is low and the o'flow is high. I'd install a new radiator cap too I think. make sure the overflow tube is clear, cut the bottom of it at a 45* angle, use 2 small zipties to clamp it to its nipple at the rad's neck.. when you refill, consider getting the car's nose uphill or on ramps, rad full and overflow on the line or a above - make noted of its level - and idle it till the fans come on, let it cool, then check the level again in the overflow - top off if necessary.

maybe some fresh trans fluid would help? (check ATF level while idling)

not hopeful that the prev. owner did that - perhaps covering-up a problem. make sure to check coolant level in the radiator. does the car push coolant into the overflow bottle? do the fans both work (kinda seems like one or both may not if overheating only presents whe the car is stopped or perhaps in very slow traffic) thermostats for our car must be OEM style;

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/24447-clock-issues-2005-outback.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clock-repair-125959.html?s=a44285ff5d63a02a685514d8ea88c8e1&

cracked flexplate? youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=3OFTVscB3_U

I saw this, dunno about compatibility; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/421050-center-differential.html#post4817538