1 Lucky Texan

many possibilities for a 20 year-old car to have several areas needing attention. If someone saw a pulley wobble, which one? Or, did they mean the crank pulley is separating? stuck brake caliper, bad lower control arm bushing, worn tie rods,...etc.You need to find a Subaru-friendly shop and have them check it out. also, when was the last timing belt system service? I know miles are low, but the schedule also says 105 MONTHS.

what is your budget for this? It's not gonna be easy or cheap.

won't do anything unless you want more underhood sound/noise.

final drive ratio of rear diff must match the trans FD ratio.

any idler that wobbles 'needs' to be replaced asap any idler that spins like a skate wheel 'should' be replaced soon.

is it new to you? was it running and then quit? more details please.

I always adjusted with the star wheels. Works fine. Direction for tightening is embossed on the dust shield. I THINK upwards (yes, on bith side) is tighter. chock front wheels very securely, put trans in neutral, lift rear of car onto jackstands both sides, pull p-brake handle up to first click, adjust star wheels until you can't turn the tires (or, not without a lot of effort) - check, repeat if required but, always worked for me.

kinda seems like 2 different issues but, perhaps some coolant is shorting-out the high voltage? maybe spray the coil and wires and spark plug tube holes with wd-40, it can displace water.

don't the screws on the older cars' oil pumps sometimes back out a little?

you might look around at www.boxer4racing.com . Did a little biz with them years ago, went well. user @traildogck makes some bushings. Don't see him much around this forum, mostly over at www.subaruoutback.org

in the 'old days' of compactpickups, someone (Mazda????) had a nice set-up for 4ft wide panels/plywood carrying capability - they had 'indentations' on TOP of the wheel wells for a 2x4 to go across. panels would lay flat that way. I still think a small Subaru truck, particularly one that looked more truck-like than the Brat, would sell well here in the States. Small estate utility/neighborhood runabout, etc.

I think Blackstone can even do soemthing with that info. I have seen some comments from them whereby they 'extrapolated' data from odd/mixed samples. But, could just be wasted money if it's obvious there's internal issues now....?

if there is ANY fluid left - maybe send a sample to Blackstone ???

odd I have only this to offer, it seems kinda 'binary' at a lot, in that, there would maybe have been enough fluid to operate, shift the car around a little from spot to spot, until the car wouldn't move, then, it would just get parked. not quite the same same as someone trying to , say, daily drive it on the highway day after day a quart low on fluid.

maybe check vacuum when cold, then when warm/failing.

certainly never was an issue with the oem HU in our 03 OBW but, the door speakers all went bad.

cool!, ordered! I have no problem putting on an easy upgrade like that, thanx GD

Nice, I think I'll try to get it back on. see, at NASIOC this would have gotten replies like; YOU THINK YOU'RE SMARTER THAN SUBARU ENGINEERS! GET IT BACK ON IMMEDIATELY! IT'S CRITICAL YOU IDIOT!. or THAT THING IS A PIECE OF HEAVY OVER-ENGINEERED CRAP! WHY'D YOU HAVE IT ON ALL THESE YEARS! LEAVE IT OFF YOU IDIOT!

anyone ? Bueller?

you had 2 spare axles with you?

if you used an LED bulb, that can cause hyper flashing too. if a bulb has an internal problem.putting it on the other side of the car should cause hyperflashing there.

maybe leaking into a rack boot?

is there any internal 'brain' that would prevent that? something altering shift points? I'd expect not but, yeah, who knows nowadays.

got the car back from the shop a coupla weeks ago. All the way home it was smoking, kinda tailed-off in the last coupla miles, since then when i drive, seems like the smoking is gone so, I guess it was VC gaskets. wherever they leak into must collect a lot of oil. The shop got a lot of things taken care of for me and I don't regret taking it in. They put in an ACT HD clutch and I'm still getting used to that. They too k the bumper off and only had to fix some leaking hose to get the ww spraying again. I still have 1-2 mechanical/physical things to work on (and some cosmetic stuff) and I can see some time coming up in a few weeks to do it too. That shop was crowded. When I went to pick the car up, they had to move a 700 hp beast out of the way!

So, I got my car back from the shop a coupla weeks ago but the turbo shield I had taken off and left in the cargo area for them to put back on when they were finished, didn't get installed. I can put it back back but kinda wondering if people feel it is 'worth' the trouble.