1 Lucky Texan

If the car spent a lot of time on the trails, maybe a previous owner removed the bar(s) for more articulation?

this is among the reasons I am fixing my wrx. Wihle it is in no way ever going to be as reliable/practical as a NA car, it's the devil I know and I still like driving it. My wife wanted me to get a new car with some inheritance money. I'm like. why if it doesn't get driven much and has to sit outside in the weather. She has her new CR-V and we hardly drive it.

check rock auto - or, if you are near a larger city, radiator shops often can fix/make a hose for you.

I have had to replace the high pressure hose once on my WRX, twice on our old Outback. The Outback also got a new low-side hose. They don't last forever.

12 year old thread......

most every time I've followed a thread where a system was overcharged, there has been a 'hooting' noise reported. Sometimes when the car/system is turned off.

it's well known and legit. I have experienced it in our 03 H6 OBW

could just be coincidence. As soobs age, the seal between the core and the plastic tanks can leak..... but, a pressure testing kit 'loaned' from a parts store may help to pin-down exactly where the leak is.

rebuilt alternator from parts store? They are often of very poor quality/reliability. Why were you replacing your old one?

If I knew no one other than a dealership had serviced it, I think I would contact SOA and meet with a Regional Representative at the dealership.

Likely the diagnostic system has stored the DTCs. A psrts store or a mechanic can read them. post them here. sometimes, a failing battery or problems with a charging system can cause spurious codes. Even something like a loose or failing seal on a gas cap could do this.

If he gets a new compressor, will it come with a little oil in it, or should he add some?

that engine is notorious for blown HGs. They almost all (99%) leak combustion chamber to cooling jacket. Unlikely to see chocolate 'mousse' in the oil. BUT, sending coolant and maybe oil samples to Blackstone 'may' be a good idea. However, not knowing how often or severely any past overheats were, you run the risk that repairing the gaskets on this engine, may buy you a few weeks or months until a rod bearing fails. I think, to do this reliably; a used engine from a wreck, that you equip properly with new MLS headgasts, and, a proper timing belt system service, are required.

Even though I have worked on my 2 soobs' a/c. really, if you can find a good shop, or even a good auto a/c shop, for the money and hassle of trying to both diagnose and repair the car, I strongly suggest getting it fixed by a pro. I kinda regret buying gauges and adapters, and having to 'loan-out' a vacuum pump from the parts store, having hoses made or buying them and waiting for arrival, getting an assortment of 'blue' o-rings (that were cr@p), getting a different asst. of o-rings..... that said, the refrigerant volume is likely listed on a label near the compressor - maybe on the radiator top support or under the hood.

not all, but many, cars are made this way - others can give more details I'm sure; http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/images/Alternator-block_diagram-2.jpg

do you have bubbles coming out of the coolant when it is overheating? If so, then yeah, I suspect you're right that the gaskets may be done. The bubbles are from a combustion chamber. But, there are other things that can cause 'simple' overheating. A clogged heater core can also cause overheating because of the weird coolant circuit down at the t'stat's housing.

when the car is acting normally, and you turn the ignition on, and the instrument lights get 'tested', does the batt light com on? I think if it ever burns-out, you won't get field current to the alternator.

GD's toothcount suggestion is dead on. Search online for t'count for that engine. You guys are in the middle of summer....but still doubt a tooth off is gonna cause overheating... make sure it has an OEM style thermostat with the large wax capsule, make sure there's no debris build-up between the radiator and the a/c condenser, 'burp' the cooling system well, etc.

and sometimes the leak is above the fuel tank and fluid could pool there, then blow or drip down almost anywhere around it.

does it blow on High?

cool

oh yeah, it may not save money - dunno. But, you're not just buying a (likely) leak-free engine, you may be buying one with much lower mileage too.

maybe try ebay motors?

would a JDM engine swap be worthwhile here?