1 Lucky Texan

specs might be found here; www.cars101.com

If the car now starts and runs well, it may very well just require a little more driving. AutoZone and other parts stores can read the code stored by the ECU. They might clear the ECU as well. It would be interesting to see what code is stored. all new cars will light 2-3-4 lights if there is a DTC stored in the ECU.

^^^ funny! after this Subaru, all the other ones look great!

if there are different model tires, or perhaps more than 3/32" difference in wear, you can experience torque bind. I don't htink that's an issue here, but as a test, see if you detect any 'jerking' in the car when doing tight, slow (at idle or just above) circles on dry flat pavement.

I've driven so many POSes and weird cars - I just don't care much and, indeed, I find 'odd' cars kind of interesting. I even drove a 1948 Willys Fleetvan in highschool, old RHD postal vehicle. better than walking. never had money for 'nice' cars and never had my ego tied-up with my wheels too much. But other people I'm sure though that van was nuts. kinda like this ;

well, not sure what the complaint is. If the tires are the same model and close to each other in wear-level, maybe some rust or other debris is trapped betweein the wheel and the rotor whe they swapped them. what kind of steering problem are you experiencing?

I have this image of Ivan making a video to set backlash on a diff. - but the audio is stream-of -conciousness, monotone and has no pauses .

maybe Dad's are rusted in place? well, while it's definitely a redneck approach, instead of Teflon, what about aluminum foil, or some type of stainless foil if it could be found? perhaps a strip from one side, over the end, and down the other side. basically like a U shape over the end of the stub. maybe an X shape so you'd get a strip in 4 locations around the stub. it need to be a very thin 'shim' material I guess. Even some very thin guage wire - say - copper, might work. and coat everything with never-seize. If there were a way to gently knurl the splines - that would raise some material. Or build-up the internal splines in the cup with some heavy plating? certainly not a correct repair.

^^^blower fan worth checking, good idea. fender liner flopping? while sitting still, can you bounce the car at the corners and create the noise?

DOH! 98 Test the scanner on another car to confirm it's working. Has that scanner actually been used on your other Subaru? There were some inexpensive scanners that wouldn't communicate with the ISO protocol.

what year soob? OBD II is 96 and up, some 95s may have had it.

so, it isn't random, but it doesn't correlate with engine rpms or tire rotations? I think it's gonna be a bushing, or balljoint.

dunno how it could happen while driving but, maybe it's in valet mode? check your manual or dig around at cars101.com for instructions to switch it back to normal.

I learned something AGAIN - I didn't know the MT stubs weren't just held in by circlips.

possible engine temp sensor - though symptoms don't fit perfectly. possible fuel delivery issue - maybe a leaky injector. Don't pump the gas pedal next time, just hold it to the floor. If it consistently starts, the engine is being flooded. In FI engines, when the ECU detects full throttle on start, it shuts the injectors off/down. That is the 'clear flood' condition in a fuel injected car. if the above consustently does NOT start the engine, maybe it's fuel starved? fuel filter changed recently? doesn't seem like a high voltage problem but, at night with the engine idling and hood up, you could try spraying some water mist around the wires and coils, any arcing or engine stumbling may mean bad wires or coil. OEM or NGK parts only on the wires.

yeah, the rear spring on my Outback was 'almost' wimpy enough I think one of my buddies could have held it for assembly. not safely though.

I have an EMPI in our H6 outback. I have no qualms about it failing, good value, very nice unit but it started causing vibration 'in gear when stopped' after a year. If her Forester is a 5 spd, she may never have an issue.

there are many things that can cause that code. even exhaust leaks. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html

A co-worker at my job has been in a position to visit Asia a coupla times - not mechanical related stuff, but he says there can be a big difference in quality among even ISO 9xxx certified companies. Some are certified by Germans, some by Chinese. And, ISO 9xxx really only secures a company's consistency, not their quality. If you turn out crap, ISO 9xxx helps make certain the crap is the same every time. did any ever find a way to get NTK , or whoever makes axles for Subaru, aftermarket? I seem to recall a S. African guy was gonna try that but, I don't recall any details. I wish I knew of some silver coating/paint that I could spray on the inner boot next to the exhaust. Somehow help to further shield it from heat.

have you checked the oil pressure? just wondering if a stuck relief valve could cause high usage? I once read of someone that had the PCV and breather hoses all cross-connected and they had weird issues with oil. just wild guesses since you seemed open to them!

^^^ interesting.

and if any of those little tabs were broken off, you will need a new sprocket.

did a tab break off the crank sprocket or did the crank position sensor get damaged?

knock sensors can be tricky to install correctly, they will crack if over-torqued, the cable must 'dress' away in certain manner or it sits on a bump on some castings causing stress/failure. And I've read that the surface under it needs to be wire brushed. just something to consider