1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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sounds like a plan - good luck -
OK, punchy, here's an experiment, save the oil from your old trans, you said it IS syntehtic and seems to cause problems right? Put that oil in the new transmission. If it works OK for you, get the 75/90 synth. if you want fresh oil. It may work for you. Evidently not everyone experiences problems and this way, the test shouldn't cost you much extra $$$. Or, go to the dealer, take your own containers, and beg them to sell you the Extra-S you need. (it comes in 20 liter buckets I THINK?) Or order it from Fred Beans . But it's pricey that way due to shipping. Or, order this-http://www.grimmspeed.com/1-transmission-cocktail-mix/ The 80/90 should work. I dunno about next winter for you - surely the parts houses carry adequate variety of viscosities for your climate.
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odd - any check engine light or stored/pending codes? any vacuum or pressure/'whooshing' detected when removing the gas cap? I'm tempted to recommend some SeaFoam through a tank or 2 of gas and throttlebody cleaning but - both guesses.
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no additives. The center diff is sealed and runs in it's own silicone fluid.
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well, that is usually just shorthand for 5 speed stickshift (MT = Manual Transmission) - but, in 06 they supposedly made a change to the 1st gear synchro so, if you need some specific info on a specific year - maybe someone else will know. The older 5 speeds are the ones that can sometimes be a little more finicky i think. If you have a problem, fluid will not fix the the transmission - but the right fluid (which could be different for a Canadian than - say - a citizen of Florida) can help reduce balky shifting. Other items wear too, like the shifter bushings. the additive packages, and other parameters for engine oil are probably a lot different than for GL-5 .I probably wouldn't use diesel engine oil except as a last resort. maybe start by trying a name brand non-synth. GL-5 in the proper viscosity for your climate or spring for the Subaru Extra-S . The rear diff should do fine on synth, non-synth or Extra-S - but you likely don't need to spend the money for Extra-S for the rear diff. So, drain the transmission into a clean container and use some of that lightly-used synth for the rear diff to reduce the loss.
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many people have problems with synthetic as the synchronizers don't work well. the problem is, the tranny shares with a diff and getting a fluid that plays well with both has caused problems for some people. a name brand 'dino' GL-5 'should' work well. If it doesn't, you could try a 'cocktail' as in this huge thread at NASIOC; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674 In my WRX at present I have Redline Lightweight Shockproof. It was great for a coupla seasons but seems to have broken down now. Not sure what I'll try next - kind want to look on the drainplug's magnet.
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well, did you see this? http://arduinix.com/index.html
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sounds like a fun project - be careful. I think neon needs 160-170 volts doesn't it? (been a long time since i messed with neon bulbs!)
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yeah, me approx. 1975. That HP counter up there has a nixie tube display. (in all fairness, I never built anything with them, but have built 7 segment LED displays using discrete drivers and encoders and stuff like that)
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I would use an abundance of w'ever method I chose. i would also leash or wrap or otherwise try to restrain any pieces that could conceivably fly away. And wear eye protection. kinda surprised ther isn't room to get some compressors in there. Might only need to grab 3 coils each to have 'enough' control. hose clamps definitely frighteneing, but may leave enough exposed that you could put real compressors on after removal - dunno;
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yeah, I know what they are;
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be careful - dont' completly trust anything other than springcompressors - and be careful with those! good luck
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what kind of circuit for the tach? an elm 327 and a smartphone app like Torque , Or a tactrix cable and laptop running something like RomRaider should display the tach. might be able to derive the gear with tach and speed sensor info.
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coverking wet okole
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what were the other 2 wires? is it possible some portion of the repair job is allowing some shorting/cross connection?
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don't discount the possibility of a bad u-joint or other driveline problem.
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ok, that makes sense now.
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uh - just messing around chief. Nothing personal. I see no reason there couldn't be some corrosion or flaky plating or even a bend in the strut rod making it 'give way' a little and move. there's supposed to be some nitrogen gas in there and even a rise in temps could increase the gas pressure or free-up some gummy oil or something.
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Even though soob bearings can have mysterious failure modes, what you describe is one common way a right (probably front right) wheel bearing could begin to fail. certainly have other components check/replaced as mentioned. an infrared remote thermometer might show one bearing/hub 30 degrees hotter than it's mate after a highway run.
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was there a Sorcerer or some magic beans and a cow involved somehow? riddle - what happens if Pinocchio says; "My nose will grow now!"
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fairtax, is that the same as an 'input shaft' bearing? seems like in the old days, noise clutch in vs noise out would help decide between throw-out and input shaft bearings but i can never remember which way. I don't have the experience you guys do.
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I dunno on an '11 , but a lot of soobs have shown the ABS system to be VERY sensitive to voltage and is often the first hint an alternator is going out.
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well, I don't know what instrument you're using but, an ohmmeter supplies its own current and isn't used on a powered circuit. Sounds like the meter is just confused with the power in the line and the slight drop across the connection? kinda weird as there shouldn't be a lot of current with the ignition just at ON. I'd be tempted to do all my resistance testing with the neg batt connection removed. Also, try reversing the leads on your testing. Sometimes corrosion can act like a diode. not commonly, but possible.
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carbon build-up in the cylinders could lead to knock - but if the sensor isn't pulling timing, it isn't knocking. one experiment to try, clear the computer with a battery disconnect after filling with high octane. maybe try a coupla tankfuls. If the problem seems better, may be a 'real' knock issue. but from what you say - ECU seems suspect doesn't it? Or the connector to it w'ever
