1 Lucky Texan

is it a hooting kind of noise, heard after the compressor stops? that's from an over-charged condition.

my dad had a Studebaker once. oh - wait, STUD-breaker nvrmd

does anyone else feel lug nuts should be replaced after a several years? I have replaced them on our 03. They get a lot of 'cycles' with tire rotations. And they sorta 'gall' on the contact area.

agree, too suspicious having low numbers on the same side, cam timing likely off.

I think someone reported running the engine with the covers off, you could see excessive movement of the tensioner. as mentioned above, if the work was done cheaply, the old tensioner may have been compressed too quickly and destroyed.

what is the likelihood of sabotage? good relationship with neighbors? upset ex-spouse? when I went to the track, I was advised to take my torque wrench to check lugnuts after my first run - they were fine. Also, is this more likely with aftermarket wheels? Maybe someoen has put wheels on that are not 'hub centric'.

check RockAuto. I THINK there may be some spring+strut assemblies there, or maybe Amazon? usually, folks are just buying struts. Check prices on KYB struts. Then maybe shop for some used WRX wagon springs? check around here too for ideas;http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/

dunno how much shipping would be, but I have a set of springs off my 06 wrx wagon. less than 1900 miles on them. I'd like to get $40 if that doesn't seem unreasonable. know anyone headed your direction from DFW?

broken front axle? PLEASE tell us the model, year and mileage of the vehicle. also, any wrecks or work done recently, general condition of the vehicle, etc.

it'll probably get slushy but, should still work I guess. Things can sometime be crazy in the field so - try to find time for a 'dry run' in the lab with the new fluid.

what about the stuff they use in water systems in RVs ? or; http://www.orisonmarketing.com/IceclearAF.html In the past, i used an environmental test chamber that use liquid CO2. You have to find the cylinders with the siphon tube. maybe a gas company could make up a smaller cylinder for you. Still, there's gonna be handling/usage problems. are alcohols too flammable? -100 C or colder I think.

get the PCV valve and hoses changed/cleaned too. High crankcase pressures will exacerbate oil leaks. After that, it may be better to keep topping the fluids off while digging for more serious issues. If the engine has to come apart, or be replaced, no point in putting new valve cover gaskets on now. Compression/leakdown tests may be a good next move. Also, shopping for an engine from the junkyards.

just changed intake air filter, oil and filter, and new trans oil in the WRX. cleaned batt terminals and checked fluids. Inspected brake pad thickness, Think I'll put a new set on all-around in October. Need to change the cabin filter and have Discount Tires rotate and balance the wheels. should be good for the summer after this! also, need to do some of the above on the Outback.

weight savings probably figure more in stop&go (but, slight - like leaving a pre-teen/small adult ??? out of the car) , I agree, very slight/no help on the highway.

yeah, with the fuse in, all the same parts turn and they have the same mass. hard to see where any fuel savings would come from. This comes up a lot and it's bogus unless parts are removed from the car - then you gain from weight savings, not FWD.

have you checked the fluid? Keep the engine idling on level ground, shift to each individual gear for 10-15 seconds, then to Park. Keep idling, pull the dipstick and wipe it. wait 2 minutes. seriously, wait. Check the level.

isn't there a large hose from the IACV to under the intake? it might be loose. From what I've read, easy to leave off after engine work.

and swap crank angle sensor if the above doesn't work.

with the metal one, does it get a sealant on each side?

www.boxer4racing.com has some go fast bits for legacy-based cars. I bought a strommung muffler from them in the past but never messed with coil-overs.

danny, I have to mention since I don't recall it in the thread - you DO have 4 tires all the same size on the car right? Same brand, model , etc,? an odd size mixed in can cause TB.

40 is right on the edge I think. Driving at highway speeds, I think it's a beast when I put my foot down. But outta the hole and anywhere up to 45/50, not so great. maybe no worse though than a typical 6 cylinder. Some of the other 'utes' have a lot of torque available, perhaps built with more of an eye towards towing? - I dunno. If the one you drove has been running with regular octane fuel, that's at least a part of the problem. ours is a very nice 'medium cruiser'. It has it's quirks with wind noise and downshifting at very high speeds - otherwise, no complaints.

yeah, drain and fill only gets about half the total fluid. drain/fill/drive repeat 2-3, times gets 80-90% new fluid. you 'could' try a different brand of fluid and/or a CRC or Lucas additive. definitely go thru GG's list especially number 13. I'd wait if possible til GG replies to this thread though. he has a lot of experience. I only read about the stuff he and other gurus do.

OK, fluids probably not an issue then. um - you are checking fluid level with the engine idling right?

or maybe the product is old? I could find ADvance Auto parts labeled bottles of ATF for several formulations, including Dex/Merc (DEXRON II and III) but AutoCraft seemed to just be on some AAP batteries??? anyway, dannybito just needs to confirm it's Dexron 'compatible' was all I was thinking.