1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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ugh - ok, remove obvious characters; htOBVIOUStps://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ZgqCXf9w_BE -
todd, how was this determined?
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the older a used car is, the more important it's prior care and present condition. Consider getting a pre-purchase inspection by a different, good mechanic. also, how reliable is the info about timing belts and headgaskets? those jobs can be done quick and dirty, or 'correctly'. (MLS head gaskets , belt only vs all rotating parts, waterpump, seals etc.) If this indie garage is legit, that work should be OK. which one do you prefer driving? what do you plan to use the car for? The RS, is that a 2 door? those are kinda uncommon.
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does that car have 2 fans? make sure they both are working.
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that wouldn't be a common failure mode for soobs, but not impossible I guess. is it pushing coolant into the overflow or other odd problems? it's more likely to be a dropped valve guide or valve problem. You could try holding a strip of paper at the tailpipe while cranking. If it tries to suck in, probably a valve problem. dropping the exhaust might let you see a dropped guide - not sure on that engine. And, a vacuum gauge might also pulse oddly if a valve were stuck/broken.
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used engine (car-part.com) or, you could let these guys (in Flower Mound) take a look; http://www.awdtuning.com/services/general/
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I'm in no position to do anything but speculate. I'd be concerned that it may have lower impedance and could stress coils. I'd have some concerns that it could interfere with 'swirl patterns' or other combustion chamber fluid dynamics. I'd be concerned it may be more prone to collecting carbon deposits. But, if a manufacturer says they've tested and approved it for use - it wouldn't frighten me away, just comes down to price/longevity i guess.
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Minimize Shipping Cost at RockAuto.com!
1 Lucky Texan replied to RockAuto's topic in Products for your Subaru
yeah, while I don't exclusively shop there, I never fail to check the site for what I need. Never had a problem that wasn't stupidity on my part, and coworkers I've recommended to RA have had perfect experiences. -
good post - for testing purposes, could that heater circuit be bypassed with a direct hose loop? If everything was good, then heater core would be the culprit right?
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I wonder if there could be an electrical/voltage problem and the car isn't overheating at all? maybe the gauge or it's sender is incorrect. or, the system needs to be 'burped'.
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you're a little over due for the TB (105 k miles OR 105 MONTHS). maybe it's slipping on the water pump. how many miles on the car? is the thermostat OEM-style or aftermarket?
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were all those parts replaced trying to solve the problem? or was some of that work done just before the problem came along? was the radiator cap(s) replaced? is coolant being pushed into the overflow bottle? was the timing belt changed?
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If they aren't changed, and beginn seeping/leaking, does it just folow the block down the front or does it get on the TB and screw things up? what about the front crank seal?
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You have a logical point. On a car, the 'true' return ('earth' or 'ground') IS the neg. battery terminal. The car's frame, engine and body are just a conductor. maybe mechanics are just accustomed to removing the neg. term. so often that it becomes their standard starting point?
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this thread is good - and frightening. my situation on my 06 wrx is, I 'should' be doing the TB probably next fall or the spring after that, based on the 105 MONTHS part of the schedule (picked my car in Oct. of 05) - but the car is just now at 50K MILES. would you guys replace the cam seals? the car will be under 60K miles when I do the TB work. I wasn't planning on cheaping-out with anything else, including putting in a new water pump (Aisin) but, I don't know if cam seals are a weak spot, or if I need to pull the oil pump and re-seal/tighten the back like I read about on older soobs.
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I have a concern that the new rad may be leaking into the trans cooling coil. Or that coil is blocked? is that possible? which has more pressure at idle, the cooling system or the trans pump? just bad luck I guess since you only saw ATF but, check the radiator anyway.
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well, I may be wrong but, I assumed he was told to disconnect the negative lead of the battery(the terminal) with the engine off so, the only power left in any system would be minor. certainly, one needs to be careful around a car battery.
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in theory, it just shorts any residual charge (caps in the radio? in the ECU?) to the car's chassis. I might prefer to step on the brake pedal or, as mentioned, wait for a few minutes - but it might not be all that bad.
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just throwing out some pssibilities; Engine Temp Sensor (on newer cars, it's combined with the temp gauge sensor nowadays.) depending on how it fails, it might never 'choke' a cold engine. Might be worth pulling the fuel pump assembly to look for a cracked metal cap and displaced o-ring problem.
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possibly a stuck brake caliper.
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Recommended SOB mechanic in NJ? I suspect there are plenty....oh...wait...you meant SOOB.
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triple check that you timed the crank sprocket using the vertical 'dash' on the tab behind and NOT the arrow/triangle on the front.
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so, the adjusters were just pumped-up too far? I would never have thought of that. at least, no teardown required. today I learned something
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yeah, most likely valve cover gaskets including the spark plug tubes.
