1 Lucky Texan

Is one of those products inferior or detrimental in some way?

often referenced is a 'cocktail' used to help with shifting, clashing synchros. This mix is ONLY recommended for Subaru 5spd transmissions that are a little balky. It will not repair a broken transmission. It should not be used in any transmission with a filter. If it is not helpful, go back to using Subaru Extra-S or equivalent. 1qt. Redline Heavy Shockproof + 2 qts. Castrol Axle Lmited Slip 80W-90 + APPROX 1/3 BOTTLE of Pennzoil Synchromesh MTF (1qt. size), after checking level, add more to complete the fill if needed. more info available at the extensive thread here; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674 The center diff is sealed so, I don't see how fluid choice could affect it. Still, no one is doubting you experienced a trans failure - all we have to go on is anecdotal experiences. i think a lot of people desperate to get their failing transmission to last longer try switching fluids. If the trans is failing, vs just having a little clashing due to stubborn synchronizers, no fluid will save it. Since you experience no problems now with Extra-S , you have no reason to try anything else. ANY deviation from factory fluids/parts/procedures should be considered 'experimental' - but, that doesn't mean folks have not had good service from different parts/fluids/procedures. Lifting/lowering cars, different coolants, different oil types/viscosities, brake fluids/pads, etc.

maybe it's in valet mode or ???

maybe exercise the key fob's lock/unlock sequence a coupla times. Could be some kind of security issue?

Cannot turn the flywheel but for what I see no damage. Replaced the starter 2 more times (first was TYC most recent was bosch). Now all I get is clicking from the starter solenoid with slow turns from the flywheel. . OK, does this mean you personally have no tools or workplace to attempt turning the engine by hand? I think it's imperative to inspect for broken timing belt and related damage. How many miles NOW on the used engine and how old is its timing belt?

dunno why it would be directionally biased, but maybe the crank pulley is starting to separate/wobble? could the strut mount be squeaking? maybe debris behind brake dust shield ? do you mean there's squeaking AS you turn the wheel? or, DURING the turn as the car moves with the wheels turned?

inner CVJ boot? could be Redline Lightweight Shockproof I guess, it is 'smurf blood' blue. when fresh. have you check the trans fluid level?

try blipping the throttle in neutral after lifting the clutch pedal - immediately push it back down and complet the shift from 1 to 2 .(double clutching) could be the synchronizers are damaged, also, what kind of gear oil did you use? many people report problems with synthetics.

this is a way-out-there idea, but what if the injector is leaking fuel into that cylinder and washing out the oil from the rings? Could that so severe as to reduce compression to this level? any sign of the plug being wet with fuel when pulled from that cylinder? swap injector with cylinder one and see what happens? a bore scope might also be able to see cyl. wall scoring if a ring or piston land is broken.

you don't want the tranny internals to be the weakest link. You might be able to get home AND do a cheap repair if you braek a half axle or u-joint though. sounds likea fun project.

I dunno about AVCS, but I though on 'simpler' systems, the cam sensor was just there as a 'check' to shutdown the engine if it's signals varied 'too much' from the crank sensors signal - hopefully to save starting the car with a broken timing belt and bending valves?

oh sure, if I see a good chance of moving again in 15-20 seconds, I just hold the clutch in. It does seem like that owner up there abused his car if the clutch was as worn as mentioned.

another way to approach the project, a full swap from a wrx. 06 or 07 gets you about 230hp I think. and a 96 chassis is probably lighter than an 06 so, should be quite peppy. rear VLSD too.

I DD my WRX 95% surface streets but very rarely sit in gear clutch pedal down. those pics are horrifying. I guess a junkyard bell-housing is in order - if they sell them separately ?

depends on what's wrong but, generally, just variably bad stuff - nothing good. could be; more stress on the cat converter, engine might get more load=runs hotter, if a ring is cracked, oil gets diluted with fuel, valve seat may erode..... dropping the exhaust might allow inspecting for a dropped valve guide.

doubtful - if you were extremely lucky, some marvel mystery oil might free-up a sticking valve. more likely it is; sticking, dropped guide, bent or burned. much less likely would be a cracked piston ring i guess? there are borescopes made for looking around in there thru the plug hole, but i dunno if one can be rented or not ???? if you get a used ej25 , you'll probably need to put MLS head gaskets on it.

short answer - no, should last the life of the car.

read thru those threads, there's some 'gotchas' with nuts that fall off and some torque values and hints, etc. for the swap.

take it off and spin it on your finger. If it feels crunchy, def. replace it. I replaced both of those on my 03 before failure - they both felt crunchy/dry though they weren't wobbly. your choice, but it's not good if it throws the belt off while traveling out of town. Might be worth the risk for a car that never leaves 'home base' I guess. here's coupla threads from *ahem* a different forum - for the prev. gen H6 - your set-up should be similar;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/36929-ez30-tensioner-idler-pulley-solution.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/16823-h6-tensioner-bearing.html

The serpentine acc belt's tensioner and idler pulleys ALWAYS go bad on these. plan on swapping them every 50-70K miles or every 6-7 years or so. You press in the bearings yourself (I did,,6203-2rsj, OR, Timken 203FF I think?) or just get entire pulleys from NAPA where'ever. power steering pump often sucks air in past an o-ring on the adapter on top of the pump, new o-ring will fix that

supposedly in 06 the MTs got a better synchronizer in low gear - seems like most of th folks searching for a magic 'cocktail' gear oil for their 5pds at NASIOC have pre-06 gearboxes so, their 'could' be a very slight advantage to shopping for a post 05 unit I guess. The sti 6spd is a different beast altogether. maybe it's best to let the guys buidling the dr pick which tranny they like to work with? and, if you KNOW you're going big power, you might consider dog tooth gears, at least for 1st and second gear. just ideas from reading, I have no experience doing what you plan - sounds like a lot of fun building a beast like you describe!

the car may just need a mechanic to check it out, let you know what needs immediate attention, what you can live with, and what you need to save your money for in the future. people often swap used transmissions and other parts into otherwise serviceable cars - but a 94 could be at an age where several items need to be attended-to at once, along with a true repair of some type. Hopefully, you have a good mechanic, if not, start a new thread and ask for s shop suggestion in your city and have a discussion with a mechanic.

previous owner may have installed a deficient type of thermostat.

check for the cap/o-ring problem on the fuel pump. search for info. check for rusted-thru fuel filler pipe behind the plastic cover, or possibly a leak under the hood. a vacuum gauge might help diagnose surging from a vacuum leAK.

try some more searching the Net, I only did a brief search. don't forget to search youtube too. It's sometimes surprising what shows up there.