1 Lucky Texan

as long as the failure mode of the center diff is always 'locked' (like a welded diff) then it will work as he described. The stub will still turn, but being free from any load, there will be no binding. if the center diff failed OPEN, then ONLY the disconnected stub would turn and no power would get to the front wheels.

in my opinion, put gen2 or gen3 H6 Outback at the top of your list.

Is the MAF still in the intake? that is, does all the intake air still pass thru the MAF? it must, and, as said above, that airflow needs to be steady/laminar or otherwise appropriate for the MAF to do it's job. if you disconnect the MAF, the car will likely go into 'limp' mode. the stock intake IS 'cold air' so, just put it back stock if you continue to have issues.

well, may be time for compression and leakdown tests. maybe valves are burned, or just on the edge of being too tight and they float enough when warm at higher rpms to leak?

Try holding the gas pedal to the floor when starting. That signals the ECU to go into 'clear flood' mode and it will shut off the injectors. maybe the car is flooding. Some people experience this when moving a cold car 20 feet, shutting it off to get out and close a gate or retrieve mail, then, they get back in and the car won't start. Too much fuel from being cold, then, the fuel washes down the cylinders reducing compression AND, since the car is still cold, MORE fuel is dumped in. You could pull a plug when it fails to see if it is wet with fuel. possible intermittent crank position sensor too I'd guess. this is sometimes bugs/spiders getting into the evap parts on infrequently used cars.(Mazda has had more than one recall due to Yellow Sac Spiders doing this) My mother in law is having her second issue of this (2011 Forester). There is a drain valve or maybe a hose associated with the charcoal canister that can cause this. could of course be a bad solenoid or rodent-chewed wires or.... Is the check engine light on? even if not, scanning for pending codes could be a good idea.

make certain the wires are snapped onto the plugs. read often of this being an issue. check the boots for oil, some soobs leak oil in the plug tubes and short the high voltage, , perhaps try swapping injectors front to rear.

you could just leave it as is. Then, you can start parking up close to the grocery store entrance like a normal person instead of at the remotest portion of the parking lot with no other cars around.

shaft bearing in tranny? do you hear it idling in neutral?

seems like the tranny is the issue, but blocked exhaust might have similar symptoms. A vacuum gauge might help determine a blocked cat conv or exhaust issue.

most dealers are just gonna farm the job out to a collision shop anyway. But, some dealers do have their own paint shops so..... my experience with having some collision work done on a few cars is, they are very good at matching. Since you will know where the problems were, you may be able to tell under good lighting conditions. The odds that anyone not familiar with your car, or in the paint and body business or insurance adjuster would, are close to zero.

you might be able to find some figures searching on line. Dunno if you lose the data with a battery disconnect or not - quite likely. If the batt was disconnected, drive for a coupla days, then read the ECU data. fuel trims should be as close to zero as possible. Single digit corrections are common, double digit corrections probably point to problems. lazy sensors, vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, w'ever. intake air temp should be close or a little over ambient. timing depends on engines, probably should be - what ? 15-20 degrees? just guessing on that. maybe a more experienced member here will reply.

there may not be much in the way of mods for a 2014, just try some creative search terms. also, dig around at; http://www.subaruoutback.org/

he mentioned a clutch so, I assumed 5sp. what tranny doe you have roadsubiedog? 4EAT indeed has a clutch pack in the rear section as said.

check the timing. using OEM or NGK wires?

hard to say but, could be wires or maybe a coil issue. I think you may need to have the ECU read for the fuel trims. If it doesn't run well on the factorey map, like after a reset, that kinda points to a major correction the ECU is having to make in A:F or timing or ??? do you run high octane? if not, try a tank or 2 and see if it's better - maybe the car is knocking ? Knock sensors go bad and are cheap to change out. I'd also pull the covers and look for slipped cam timing.

I'd think you could find a compatible tranny with 1/3 the miles or less. check car-part.com

check the air filter box is clipped in correctly.

no question there's a high failure rate on HGs on the early NA 2.5 DOHC engines (EJ25D ?). later 2.5s can develop external weeping. I have no idea on 'modern' engines as new as yours. So far, my 2003 H6 Outback and my 2006 WRX turbo wagon have had no serious problems. as said, subarugenuineparts.com, Fred Beans and subarupartsforyou.com and others are discounted online dealers with OEM parts. many folks have perfectly fine results with quality aftermarket filters. (WIX and I think NAPA now have filters with Subaru bypass valve specs. Purolater Pure One is very close) I bought a box of Dorman crush washers and do use a new one on the drain plug. Some people report NEVER having used a new one so..... there MAY be an aftermarket 'kit' available for the UP window issue, not sure. In the past, there have been hacks and mods made for 2-3 other little issues like that. (windshield misting,key-off rear 12v power, etc.) Take care of your tires and read your manual about using the spare, and towing your car. GOOD AWD systems have special requirements when it comes to tires and towing. Not sure a 2014 has the same sensitivities along these lines as my older models.

well, here, we would just get a new cap. OEM is best. I have used Stant aftermarket brand with no problems. Checking the data from the car's ECU may help point to a system that is at it's limits due to a problem or bad sensor. Short Term Fuel Trims and timing settings, etc. would be good to check.

Oh yeah, I meant at a rad shop. Dunno if a rad shop or a radiator is easier for DmanForester.

I think i have heard of a way to unzip a cracked tank and replace it...not sure though. you might change radiator cap in case it is holding too much pressure.

if the Owner's Manual instructions or the above ideas don't work, check elsewhere in the manual for the emergency technique for releasing the brake. There's a tool involved and you insert it somewhere designated in the manual and turn it 314 times or w'ever. to physically release it. I wouldn't do the above technique if I had a warranty and was not experiencing an emergency. So, call the dealer to come swap a loaner to you is likely the best advice.

check the fuel pump for the cap/o-ring problem.

any update?

you could try verifying with a vacuum gauge I guess;