1 Lucky Texan

shaft bearing in tranny? do you hear it idling in neutral?

seems like the tranny is the issue, but blocked exhaust might have similar symptoms. A vacuum gauge might help determine a blocked cat conv or exhaust issue.

most dealers are just gonna farm the job out to a collision shop anyway. But, some dealers do have their own paint shops so..... my experience with having some collision work done on a few cars is, they are very good at matching. Since you will know where the problems were, you may be able to tell under good lighting conditions. The odds that anyone not familiar with your car, or in the paint and body business or insurance adjuster would, are close to zero.

you might be able to find some figures searching on line. Dunno if you lose the data with a battery disconnect or not - quite likely. If the batt was disconnected, drive for a coupla days, then read the ECU data. fuel trims should be as close to zero as possible. Single digit corrections are common, double digit corrections probably point to problems. lazy sensors, vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, w'ever. intake air temp should be close or a little over ambient. timing depends on engines, probably should be - what ? 15-20 degrees? just guessing on that. maybe a more experienced member here will reply.

there may not be much in the way of mods for a 2014, just try some creative search terms. also, dig around at; http://www.subaruoutback.org/

he mentioned a clutch so, I assumed 5sp. what tranny doe you have roadsubiedog? 4EAT indeed has a clutch pack in the rear section as said.

check the timing. using OEM or NGK wires?

hard to say but, could be wires or maybe a coil issue. I think you may need to have the ECU read for the fuel trims. If it doesn't run well on the factorey map, like after a reset, that kinda points to a major correction the ECU is having to make in A:F or timing or ??? do you run high octane? if not, try a tank or 2 and see if it's better - maybe the car is knocking ? Knock sensors go bad and are cheap to change out. I'd also pull the covers and look for slipped cam timing.

I'd think you could find a compatible tranny with 1/3 the miles or less. check car-part.com

check the air filter box is clipped in correctly.

no question there's a high failure rate on HGs on the early NA 2.5 DOHC engines (EJ25D ?). later 2.5s can develop external weeping. I have no idea on 'modern' engines as new as yours. So far, my 2003 H6 Outback and my 2006 WRX turbo wagon have had no serious problems. as said, subarugenuineparts.com, Fred Beans and subarupartsforyou.com and others are discounted online dealers with OEM parts. many folks have perfectly fine results with quality aftermarket filters. (WIX and I think NAPA now have filters with Subaru bypass valve specs. Purolater Pure One is very close) I bought a box of Dorman crush washers and do use a new one on the drain plug. Some people report NEVER having used a new one so..... there MAY be an aftermarket 'kit' available for the UP window issue, not sure. In the past, there have been hacks and mods made for 2-3 other little issues like that. (windshield misting,key-off rear 12v power, etc.) Take care of your tires and read your manual about using the spare, and towing your car. GOOD AWD systems have special requirements when it comes to tires and towing. Not sure a 2014 has the same sensitivities along these lines as my older models.

well, here, we would just get a new cap. OEM is best. I have used Stant aftermarket brand with no problems. Checking the data from the car's ECU may help point to a system that is at it's limits due to a problem or bad sensor. Short Term Fuel Trims and timing settings, etc. would be good to check.

Oh yeah, I meant at a rad shop. Dunno if a rad shop or a radiator is easier for DmanForester.

I think i have heard of a way to unzip a cracked tank and replace it...not sure though. you might change radiator cap in case it is holding too much pressure.

if the Owner's Manual instructions or the above ideas don't work, check elsewhere in the manual for the emergency technique for releasing the brake. There's a tool involved and you insert it somewhere designated in the manual and turn it 314 times or w'ever. to physically release it. I wouldn't do the above technique if I had a warranty and was not experiencing an emergency. So, call the dealer to come swap a loaner to you is likely the best advice.

check the fuel pump for the cap/o-ring problem.

any update?

you could try verifying with a vacuum gauge I guess;

it spins the other direction in Australia.

yes, you can even see the o-ring displaced. you need a metric 928 (IIRC) Viton o-ring, and the cap and filter (throw the filter away) for -like maybe-an 04 or 05 Forester. a W0133-1617990 http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/18023-01151841.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=2004+Subaru+Outback+Fuel+Filter+NPN+W0133-1617990+04+Subaru+Fuel+Filter&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CJKXitixjL4CFTIV7AodoyQAgw or from amazon; http://www.amazon.com/NPN-W0133-1617990-NPN-Fuel-Filter/dp/B005FEYQ10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1399004269&sr=8-2&keywords=2004+subaru+fuel+filter+W0133 there is a dimple/bump on the large tab, don't force it past or it may bend if it rides-up on the lug.

ugh - ok, remove obvious characters; htOBVIOUStps://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ZgqCXf9w_BE

todd, how was this determined?

the older a used car is, the more important it's prior care and present condition. Consider getting a pre-purchase inspection by a different, good mechanic. also, how reliable is the info about timing belts and headgaskets? those jobs can be done quick and dirty, or 'correctly'. (MLS head gaskets , belt only vs all rotating parts, waterpump, seals etc.) If this indie garage is legit, that work should be OK. which one do you prefer driving? what do you plan to use the car for? The RS, is that a 2 door? those are kinda uncommon.

does that car have 2 fans? make sure they both are working.