1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I might try some kind of inspection/rework but, I'd feel a lot better about it if I had another ride or i KNEW I could get a starter locally first. It's so odd, no problems except under about 40 degs F or so. A if starts the car - just makes a weird noise afterwards which i have to assume is the drive not retracting. -
well, it appears this starter may not be the same as the 'typical' one folks can rebuild with a plunger and contacts. it may be a Mitsubishi, or a different type of denso starter - great.... denso 280-0333 I think. now, if I have mine rebuilt locally, maybe they will use lube that's better for our Texas summers, etc. But the car might be down for 3 days w'ever. decent rebiults seem to be in the $140-$160 range. guess i will limp it along until it gets severe, then shop for a decent rebuilt locally with a lifetime warranty. Just not sure i wanna mess with shipping a core back to someone via mail. dang!
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Seems to spin and start the car fine. But there's a noise after the engine starts. I have to assume the gear isn't retracting? Only 47K miles too. disappointing but, i see no reason not to try removing it and replacing the contacts and plunger. Are there any accessible spots to lubricate and what lube?
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the cool weather has brought back last winter's 'dragging starter problem' in my 06 WRX and, I was hoping someone could guide me to the best rebuild parts. If I'm gonna bust into it, I'll spring for NGK or Denso w'ever people feel is good quality. Never done it before but saw some pics and I think I watched a video. thanx
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you might ask if they can get EMPI (new, from ISO 9002 Chinese plant - FWIW) but honestly, many people run into problems with both new and rebuilt aftermarket.
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Seems like you had someoen else work on the axle? maybe they bought the wrong part or ???? take it back and demonstaret the problem to them. Even if a boot splits, you can usually drive for weeks/months before there is a serious problem.
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another way to proceed would be to post a new thread asking for a shop suggestion near Worthington. maybe someone knows of a soob experienced independent mechanic that could offer a second opinion.
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Unless the tranny has had meticulous care and/or recent fresh fluid put in, I'd be tempted to try 3 drain/fill/drive/repeat cycles - and maybe some Lucas or CRC trans-max type additives before spending $$$$$. maybe the valve is just gummed-up
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After a coupla responses, it seems there isn't much mechanical that could suffer from lack of lube so, my question now is, could worn contacts cause some 'dragging' of the starter just in cold weather? My 06 WRX is low miles and probably averages only 22 starts a week. maybe less. many weeks it is driven to-from work only 5 days with no weekend use.
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timing belt should've been done ~4-5 years ago (time side of schedule, not mileage) Personally, I might call around and price a combined headgasket and timing belt job and just figure that into the cost of the car. maybe post a new thread asking for shop recommendations in Fremont - arrange a pre-purchase inspection. You might get lucky and a good soob tech may be able to spot multi-layer steel gaskets and new-ish timing belt/parts on the car.
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The starter in my 06 WRX drags in cold weather. I'm hoping it'll be tolerable this winter but... Are there lube points on the inside and what kind of lube would I use? Could I use permatex ceramic brake grease? (I have lifetime supply lol!)
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maybe a dexcool/glycol mix-up?
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thanx, will check it out soon.
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dang - forgot - 06 , it might be the same as the WRX sedan. I have read that some years can use the STi bar but fasten endlinks to the inside ????
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Making up a Xmas gift list and I was considering adding a rear antisway bar and endlinks to the list. or maybe ask for a gift certificate to help pay for one. Just wondering who makes WRX wagon-spec rear bars? Is Whiteline the only choice?
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Man I dunno, try scanning for 'pending' codes. I know you said vacuum was good, but a vacuum gauge can sometimes help pin down a problem. maybe do a compression check. many people here have trouble with spark plug wires that are not OEM/NGK.
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a coupla points, 6 cylinder (horizontal 'boxer' config.) is only gonna be coupled to an automatic tranny. 4 cyl 2.5 boxer is available with auto or 5 spd. what is the weight/power ratio in your Jeep? as an example for the Outback; 2007 3.0 H6 makes 243hp, weighs 3610 - 14.8 lbs/hp 2007 2.5 H4 makes 175hp weighs ~ 3400 - 19.4 lbs/hp I'd avoid the H4 if it's much higher than your Jeeps ratio. If it's close, then thorough test driving would definitely be helpful just to determine if the 'feel' of it will be acceptable. Just differences in how/when the torque peak comes in and how a car handles turns and braking can make a big difference even if their power/weight ratios are similar.
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try HOLDING the gas pedal to the floor and cranking. maybe it's flooded. (modern ECUs know to shut down injectors if starting with the gas floored) look around for fuel leak?
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swing-away carrier would work with the hatches on the wagons. Otherwise, a sedan might be better for you. I dunno, are there carriers that stick out enough for hatches to open? timing belts have been quite the norm for decades for many car brands/models and, if the service was done 'correctly', they don't present a problem. The issue come when buying a used car as to whether a belt only was slapped on the car, or if all the appropriate ancillary gear was attended to. If you plan to regularly cruise with a load and passengers, you might lean towards a 6 cylinder model. Hvae you found a local shop with some Subaru experience that can provide a pre-purchase inspection?
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possibly some parts from a wrecking yard were swapped in on one side?
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rockauto is good. I seriously just ordered some wiper blades and got them in less than 24 hours!!!
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hard to think of anything....some Legacies and Outbacks have a flat 6 cyl. engine that uses a timing chain instead of a belt as used in all 4 cyl. engines prior to - uh, - about 2012 or so. There is no service interval listed for the chain and failures have so far been very rare. Although it actually is a well-planted car, some folks feel the Forester exhibits too much body roll when cornering. really, they are just different body styles and you just need to drive them. Oh yeah, if you tow anything you need to check the tow specs. probably find those also at www.cars101.com
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I may have it wrong but, isn't the joint retained due to the bolt engaging the concave groove around the joint body?
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first, you seem generally happy with your Jeep. $10,000 would go a long way to keeping it in reliable condition I'd think. With used cars, the individual vehicle's past care and present condition are vastly more important than it's brand/model or predicted reliability when new. In short, an abused 6 year old Honda could be a worse purchase than a pampered 6 year old Fiat. Perhaps ask for Subaru mechanics in Cincinnati in a new thread. 2 reasons. One, sometimes they will have a car or 2 posted for sale by a customer in their waiting room. Second, have a prospective purchase looked at before buying. A pre-purchase inspection may cost an hour or two's labor, but it could save you from buying a car with torque bind or low compression in a cylinder or ??? As for recalls, all cars have them. You would be wise to have the VIN checked by a dealer for ANY brand of used car to see if safety recalls were done.
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If you think you will be on dirt/mud/gravel roads, you may need more ground clearance than a stock legacy or Impreza will offer. So, you should limit your shopping to Outback, Forester or 'Outback Sport'. The last 2 are based on 'impreza' chassis. The Outback as most people think of it, is legacy chassis-based. You can do a little research at www.cars101.com
