1 Lucky Texan

fairtax, is that the same as an 'input shaft' bearing? seems like in the old days, noise clutch in vs noise out would help decide between throw-out and input shaft bearings but i can never remember which way. I don't have the experience you guys do.

I dunno on an '11 , but a lot of soobs have shown the ABS system to be VERY sensitive to voltage and is often the first hint an alternator is going out.

well, I don't know what instrument you're using but, an ohmmeter supplies its own current and isn't used on a powered circuit. Sounds like the meter is just confused with the power in the line and the slight drop across the connection? kinda weird as there shouldn't be a lot of current with the ignition just at ON. I'd be tempted to do all my resistance testing with the neg batt connection removed. Also, try reversing the leads on your testing. Sometimes corrosion can act like a diode. not commonly, but possible.

carbon build-up in the cylinders could lead to knock - but if the sensor isn't pulling timing, it isn't knocking. one experiment to try, clear the computer with a battery disconnect after filling with high octane. maybe try a coupla tankfuls. If the problem seems better, may be a 'real' knock issue. but from what you say - ECU seems suspect doesn't it? Or the connector to it w'ever

so, when it isn't starting normally, how do you finally get it to start?

well, I'm betting the book has an "i" for inspect at the 30K service point - but either way, yeah, they are now in the tank with the pump. not sure whicch models/years first went into the tank;

build 2 or 3, sell the xtras and yours will be free!

make sure the brake caliper isn't dragging.

knock sensors are cheap. Is yours cracked? anyway, if you replace it, it can be important to orient the part so the cable dresses away at the same position as stock. Some people have put them on and the casting pushes on the bottom where the cable comes out and cracks it again.

maybe I'm not following but, are you complaining about vibration when stopped in gear, that goes away when you shift to N or P ? that is often poorly rebuilt (or worn ?) front axles. a 96 almost certainly does not have its original axles.

any progress?

seems dicey. Some soobs, older models mostly, do have a reputation for piston slap noise. But what you're describing seems worse. if the engine was ever overheated, you may be buying a ticking time bomb that will throw a rod. But, a loose TB tensioer will also sometimes let the belt flop around, that can sound like a knock. You could pull the timing covers and look for an abraded spot where the belt has been whacking the cover I guess.

do you guys try to keep a chisel in the split? also, will this work on a soob;

be careful; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enxj-2rPJLQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ou7_tiKTGAY

OBDII would definitely be on an emissions sticker under the hood or somewhere in the engine bay. similar to this - maybe someone else will know a better clue.

spray it with Kroil or PB Blaster, starting 2 weeks ago.

? which one do you want? Is this truck going to be 4WD? if not, no contest off-road, Subaru wins. but, if the 'stuff' you carry is huge or dirty, the truck wins. If you really only haul dirt or giant stuff once or twice a year, the fuel savings will pay for a rental vehicle - or borrow a buddy' truck and buy him some beers w'ever.

yeah, I was kinda wondering if, in the past, someone had put the wrong part on - perhaps from a junkyard?

what car? newer ones have HBAs and are a little friendlier for DIYers. (at least, the HBA I did on a Chevy was easy) even if press-in, some folks buy/borrow/rent hub tamers w'ever. Myself, I'd probably pay a shop to press it in.

most likely - bearing less likely - front diff other possibilities - brakes, axles

you might look around at www.cars101.com - but foreign models could have some differences.

got it. You might consider slotted only but, as fast as you will go thru brake components, you'd likely change rotors before any cracks showed up around drilled holes anyway. someone at NASIOC might have experience with the ebay parts. I'm not running a car like you are but I've had good advice from the guys at http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/home

clear the codes and see which come immediately back. Possible bad grounds connections or loose harness connector ? after cranking, pull the plugs and see if one is wet. Also, try cranking with the pedal on the floor. That is the 'clear flood' mode for a FI car. When you checked the timing, the arrow/triangle was about 3 o'clock position right?

number 19, for the fronts, has to go the correct way; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/do-yourself-illustrated-guides/58882d1384312695-front-strut-replacement-2000-outback-struts.jpg

the open end goes on the bottom so the spring end fits up against that 'pocket'. also, on my outback anyway, there is an orientation to the top hat. There should be an arrow or other marking that is supposed to point 'outside' after assembly. That is, it points toward the curbside of the fender - 90degrees from the fore-aft axis of the car. And the washer on top has an orientation. The domed or bevel side goes against the inner race of the mount's bearing. just pay close attention to how things come apart. and be careful.