1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I have the stock muffler from my 06 WRX wagon. Has less than 900 miles on it I think. But dang, shipping would be crazy money. -
well, a little searching seems to indicate a few interesting things - might not be a good idea to swap axle sides (maybe only a concern with high performance cars/off-road? and how would you know if you bought a rebuilt?) 'clocking' the joints may only be important for high lift/max articulation vehicles Some axles that have tripod joints at each end CAN be clocked a certain way to reduce vibration read here; http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm http://thinkfastengineering.com/2012/10/tripod-clocking/
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well, swapping from side to side makes sense to me and I have even suggested it. I have an axle waiting for cleaning and rebooting and when it goes on the car - it will be on the opposite side. HOWEVER, what the article seems to be saying to me (that I have never considered before) is there is a 'proper' orientation/phasing/timing involved such that the outer joint has a ball at, say - the 12 o'clock postion - and that would be exactlyu between the rollers of the inside 'freering' joint. Or something similar if the inside joint is a DOJ. I haven't seen enough unbooted new axles to know if they really concern themselves with that or not. But, I certainly would NOT be surprised that rebuilders never consider it!
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OK you CV axle rebuilders, I found this ; at http://www.scifaith.com/clickers/ I have never seen this before! Just common knowledge that no one ever discussed, or unnecessary nit-picking?
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I read once of a cat test based on pushing propane through the cat but, it might be some expensive equipment so, smaller shops might not have it. An exhaust leak can also cause the system to throw a P0420
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P0420 does NOT 'automatically' point to a bad cat conv. Though, a lot of people have probably been sold cats. read here first before swapping any cats based solely on a P0420; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html
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a '97 might have been a 90K miles TB interval - not sure though. Glad you got it before it broke, but your engine may be non-interference. Still, they usually break when your are far from home. at night, in the rain.
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how many miles/years?
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maybe the timing belt has slipped a tooth or 2?
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I saw one in, Germany, I think, VERY expensive before shipping. you try posting a WTB at subaruoutback.org and over at NASIOC. Wonder if SOA has a way to search dealer inventory nationwide? Or can a dealer do that?
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you may just need to start plugging # j5010as210 into some on-line soob inventory search bars.
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kinda like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Subaru-Impreza-Wagon-Cargo-Bin-Trunk-Lid-Boot-Liner-J5010SS200-/141004856101?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20d48b5b25 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2007-Subaru-Forester-Rear-Cargo-Bin-with-Dividers-/161187446326?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2587853e36&vxp=mtr you migh get lucky and some dealers may have some in stock. There may be some aftermarket units that would work; http://www.amazon.com/Highland-1980000-Master-Vehicle-Organizer/dp/B0000WVV6A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1390415552&sr=8-5&keywords=subaru+cargo+organizer
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you could idle the car for several minutes, then pull the vacuum line at the booster to see if there's vacuum. I think also, there's a valve inside the line to the booster that can get moisture buildup and even freeze - affecting the boost. is there any severe rust or damage or modifications to the firewall near the MC? if so, the MC could be flexing a lot.
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shouldn't move - not even 2 mm. The kind of movement you're reporting likely means you need a new hub as well as a bearing. best approach for mid-level DIYers; buy the parts, take them and the spindle to a good shop or maybe a dealer and have them press in the new bearing/bearing hub. super cheap way out, get the assembly from a junk yard and hope the bearing will last a while. risky. be prepared to need a balljoint too.
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since it's a pressurized system, to me, anything that actually 'gasses' and pushes coolant to the overflow is 'overheating'. but, it is a continuum so, I wouldn't want to run 'hot' for months and months.
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you dodged a bullet.
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How quickly does the oil level drop? If you are only seeing a lot of smoke, it takes very little to really make a cloud - and it might just be CV joint grease. thoroughly inspect as said above - or find a different mechanic to inspect it. Maybe make a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near you in Oregon.
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This could mean the ECU has been operating at its limit of ability to adjust the car's A:F ratio, and timing. Which means you may have some bad sensor, a vacuum leak, an exhaust leak, bad knock sensor or other issue. And the current regulator is inside the alt.
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on some cars, cruise and traction control , maybe other stuff, will deactivate. it does seem like around 05 is when this kinda started.
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excellent question! sometimes folks have bad bushings, bad u-joints or carrier bearings too. Al stuff that 'could' be confused with a bad rear diff I suppose.
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he said rear diff. But I think you still are confident the final ratios are interchangeable?
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does it start normally if jumped fom another car connected to the battery? if not, def investigate the cables and solenoid/starter. If it does, more likely to be the battery or charging system.
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^^ good alternative, worth investigating.
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I might try some kind of inspection/rework but, I'd feel a lot better about it if I had another ride or i KNEW I could get a starter locally first. It's so odd, no problems except under about 40 degs F or so. A if starts the car - just makes a weird noise afterwards which i have to assume is the drive not retracting.
