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Whats broke on your subaru lately.

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Well that explains why it started to get hot, though I don't believe we overheated it. is there any reason the crank pulley would have come off by itself, it did it at the same time as a 6k shift.

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Well that explains why it started to get hot, though I don't believe we overheated it. is there any reason the crank pulley would have come off by itself, it did it at the same time as a 6k shift.

 

How long did you drive it? It would overheat very quickly without circulation.

It probably came off because the bolt was loose... Hopefully it didn't damage the threads.

We went about a mile before shutting it off. It was a 40 degree day and the temperature gauge never hit the red. How much should we torque the crank pulley too?

We went about a mile before shutting it off. It was a 40 degree day and the temperature gauge never hit the red. How much should we torque the crank pulley too?

 

The temp gauge wouldn't have been getting really hot water due to lack of circulation... Hopefully you didn't blow a head gasket or something. Only one way to find out...

No idea what to torque the bolt to. Someone probably knows, or has a manual near by.

Mine is in my car, I'll check for you next time I'm out.

The pinion in my front diff shattered, for no aparent reason. I was just driving down the road and BANG pop pop pop.

 

266k on the tranny. it should be just getting broken in.

It was about 0 deg. F last night and my crappy windshield wiper was so brittle that it snapped off of the arm when I was scraping my window.

Drivers front CV shaft hehe. It hasn't popped yet but its on it's way. Funny thing is in addition to the clicking I usually get when a CV is on its way out I'm also getting a slight jerking in the wheel off and on. Is this a subaru thing? I thought maybe since tranny side joint allows in/out movement on these that might be it. Already bought a reman shaft for it, and read up on the procedure on here. I'm a little dubious about getting the shaft back into the hub as by many accounts it's a PITA. It will have to wait in any case till I can get it into a garage..it's nasty cold here so I guess I'm stuck driving the old dodge truck for awhile :banana:

-Head gasket/s

-Developed rapid overheating, suspected inlet manifold gaskets, replaced. (They weren't the problem, suspect carb gasket/s, have water in air cleaner)

-Drivers side door opening rod

-Muffler exploded after a mechanic did not replace the coil when instructed during tuneup, timed it, muffler went bang. Replaced with magnaflow from WRX (Sounds very very nice.. when its running)

:-\

after doing more checking on the EA82 turbo motor from the overheated 1988 Subaru GL-10 i just picked up, i found out that the cylinder is cracked on number 3. i guess not only did the guy over heat the poor thing, but then he went and poured cold water in it.

I had my radiator hose explode on my way to get my hair cut. I thought something was up when I lost the heat, sure enough the temp gage started to creep up and then my car was surrounded in a steamy not so goodness. With a gallon of coolant and a screwdriver I got her home. All new hoses and clamps were put on the next day :lol:

  • 4 months later...

whats broke?

 

left lower ball joint in the front

tie rods are bent

both rear brake cylinders

left rear wheel worked itself loose-tore up the mounting holes in the rim,destroyed the studs, and destroyed all brake components on that tire.

broken rear axle

cracked taillight

missing high beam light

 

 

driver's sanity...

Passenger side axle isn't broke yet, but it is very clicky. Drivers side is too, but not as bad.

 

Both are getting replaced next week.

wagon= axle, tie rods, brakes, exhaust.

brat= axle (working on that), heater.

I need a new right rear strut. When the subframe cracked I didn't realize it bent the strut a bit. It leaked all its oil out, and now it's completely bouncy. A little scare to drive over really bumpy roads fast...

well , the wife's car has an ongoing grind in the frontend. I replaced all the brake components but I think the pads are misaligned. It also needs a tune up - seems to miss on occasion at low speeds. AC controller does not want to go into max and stay there. The RX has all the same stuff broken as I have not really got to work on it yet....

My transmisson. I was driving home from work and out of no where the axels in the front stopped receiving power and got replaced with a very mild grindy noise. 4WD got me home. If I could find another transmission I would put it in, I am guessing having it rebuilt will be too expensive.

My transmisson. I was driving home from work and out of no where the axels in the front stopped receiving power and got replaced with a very mild grindy noise. 4WD got me home. If I could find another transmission I would put it in, I am guessing having it rebuilt will be too expensive.

 

Are you sure it's the transmission? It could be a broken axle or stripped out splines in a hub.

Both axels look good and are intact, they are rather new as well (under 6 months).

Both axels look good and are intact, they are rather new as well (under 6 months).

 

Ok, sometimes the joint can break internally. But did you make sure the hub splines aren't stripped? It can happen pretty easy if the axle nut isn't torqued down well.

Put it in gear, set the ebrake, and let the clutch out and look to see what axle nut is spinning. That will be the stripped hub. The rear output is driven off of the front diff. Nearly impossibe to break and drive home in 4hi. I say stripped hub from improper torque also. Seen it more times than you count and people assume. Ithe worst. Maybe broken axle. I had one strip on me.

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